Hi there...first i`d like to introduce myself...I`m Marcel and Living in Holland.
Right now i own 2 american cars. I have a Mustang II Ghia V8 (which is stil in my garage until i find the time to make it roadready) and a red F100 from `64 with a 292ci engine. This one i bought recently (4 months ago).

Here it comes....i have a few simple questions about the engine that i wasn`t able to find in this increadible pleasent forum.

- What is the right working temperature (200 fahrenheit?) of the cooling water?
- How mutch RPM can the engine handle without breaking to bits and peaces.
I have a manual 3 speed tranny with 3.89 diff.
If i drive 100 km/hr (62 miles p/hr) the engine makes 3000 RPM.

In the nearby future i`m planning to put a 302 engine with C4 tranny and a different diff with another setting (maybe 3.25).

So...to make this story short....al i want is to be able to drive about 60 miles an hour wihout overheating and blowing the engine.
Here we are allowed to drive 74,6 miles an hour on the highway.

Please let me know.

 

- What is the right working temperature (200 fahrenheit?) of the cooling water?

Average is around 180 to 190 for a good condtion Y block.

- How mutch RPM can the engine handle without breaking to bits and peaces.

Well it can go quite high as it is a Y block with the crank way up in the block. One of the most ridgid designs. However ii would refrain form takin a stock Y block much over the 4500 range for any extended period of time.

I have a manual 3 speed tranny with 3.89 diff.
If i drive 100 km/hr (62 miles p/hr) the engine makes 3000 RPM. That is about correct for a 292 with a stock 3.89.. Your Y block will pull a taller gear easily aathey like 3.25s. This will run you at about 2500 rpm at the speeds you want to run.?

In the nearby future i`m planning to put a 302 engine with C4 tranny and a different diff with another setting (maybe 3.25).

A C4 can be adapted to the 292 using Mummert parts. I would use the 292 over a 302. better torque from the 292. more wow factor for the Y block too. Every one will think its got a small block chevrolet in it...

Garbz

 

Marcel;
Welcome aboard to FTE;
As Garbz mention your running about the right rpms & alittle hot on the temp, several factors there, the gauge could be off alittle; could have a 200 degree thermostat install, (easily to change). I would recommend flushing your coolant system. Additionally I recommend running alittle thicker oil like a 10w 40 weight. It will reduce some friction as well.
Running a middle to high rear end gear like 3.89 will cause a little more rpm's than say a 3.25 or less rear end.
Again glad to see some Slick's still running over seas..

Mitch

 

Thanx Garbz and Mitch for the awnsers. Last weekend i`ve been working on the engine. What i found out was that my pre-ignision was about 20 degrees at 500 rpm and....there was no thermastat. The engine also runs on LPG wich will make the engine a bit hotter than gasoline. It also has a electronic ignision.
So...i have put in a new thermostat and put mu pre-ignision at 11 degrees at 500 rpm. Normal would be about 6 degrees with gasoline. I also mounted new sparkwires (8 mm flamethrowers). The engine doesn`t overheat anymore but it lack power. This is due the LPG system. I`ll have a garage take care of the right mixture.

So...the next thing would be to place an automatic tranny on my 292.
I`ve been looking for a complete adapterkit...that is not exacty cheap. Especially when it has to come overseas. It would be much more easy for me tu put in my 302 with the C4. I`ll only have to make 2 cross-peases and shorten my axcel.

I have calculated what the cost wout be:
1/ Put a C4 on my 292 with all the neccesary handlings...about 800 dollars.
2/ Put my 302 with C4 with engine modifications (more power)...about 600 dollars.

This weekend i sold my Mustang II Ghia...so i could use the mony for option 1 or 2.

Not bad for a Dutchie hah?

 

While you have figured installation costs, you haven't factored in what the condition of the 302 engine and transmission will be.

Overhauling both could cost a lot more euros.

 

Both 302 and C4 are in good condition. This engine was overhauled 2 years ago. It`s a completely standerd 302 mustang `79 engine. I took off al emissioncontrol parts because it will be running on LPG. Much less CO.

I took it out of a mustang myself and before that i`ve checked the compression and some other things.

I want to get about 200 hp out of it in a reliable way.

 

Hi there, it`s been a long time. Unfortionally i didn`t have time to start working on my truck. Last weekend i almost bought a Cutlass from 78. Didn`t do it though.
I fround out that mu 292 was blowing hot oil fumes out of my oilfillertube. Guess that means that i have low compression and that i would need new pistons/rings.
Would it hurt to keep driving it until i replace it with my 302 with C4?

Another thing that bouthers me is that i have a cross-over exhoustpipe ont the engine. It`s about 2 inches in diameter. Isn`t that to wide for that pipe?

Greetz from Holland.

 

1978 Olds Cutlass, uh...

After 1972, American cars have low compression smogged up engines, with EGR systems, smog pumps and catalytic converters all of which limit power, and were designed to run on regular unleaded gasoline. The gas filler necks have a restrictor inside (at least in the US) which won't accept the larger gasoline stations gas pump filler hose nozzles. If I were living in Europe, I'd look at cars from 1972 and earlier.
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Blowing oil from the oil filler tube: Worn piston rings...or the engine may have a restriction in the PCV system...clean or replace your smog valve (C1TZ-6A666-A - Motorcraft EV-1), and look at the smog hoses, they may be kinked.

If there's no PCV system (not all trucks had it...especially if sold in foreign countries or outside of California), there will be a road draft tube at the rear of the engine, and it has a replaceable filter inside it. It's prolly clogged solid > > B2TZ-6A631-A .. Filter Screen (Motorcraft FA-56)

1964 F100 2WD 292 V8 Exhaust Parts:

Inlet (header) Pipe = 2 inches = C1TT-5246-Z

Outlet pipe = 2 inches = C3TZ-5255-H

Muffler: the inlet & outlet are both 2 inches = C5TZ-5230-C

Crossover Pipe = 2 inches = B5A-5267-B.

While the other exhaust pipes are truck only, the crossover pipe is the same one as used on 1955/63 Ford passenger cars.

...finis....(till you have more questions ).

NOTE: The thermostats used in 1966 (and earlier) on all Ford Cars & Trucks are larger in diameter than the ones used later on in the 1960's, 1970's, 1980's etc. Probably the reason there's no t/stat there. These t/stats aren't easy to find here in the US anymore, so finding one in Europe will be difficult at best. Original Ford part number > > A8AZ-8575-D .. Thermostat-160 Degree (Motorcraft RT-16)

 

Note to self: Wow, I feel better already, I thought I was running high at 180. And 4500 reasures the way I like to drive.
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Again, I absolutely agree with garbz to keep the 292 in that truck. Very nostalgic and generally badass. Y-blocks were known for their power back in the day.