when you up the voltage to the idm then you get more power b/c the injectors push more fuel. idm=injector drive module, if you didn't already know that.

 

Ok got the idm, now where did you tap into oil supply, I have an Amsoil bypass system that was for a semi I had but never installed hope to use it on my 96.

 

Oh yea,has anyone installed a FASS system ,I know they worked great on big rigs.

 

Click on the "truck Pics" link in my sig and go to the PSD sensor location album. There is a pic of the oil filter area that will show were I hooked my bypass filter into. One note that is not correct on my pics though is that I state the pipe thread on the oil cooler housing that feeds my filter is 1/4 inch pipe is actually 1/8 pipe.

As for the FASS system it really over kill on our trucks unless you pushing big power. A good electric pump, pressure regulator and remote filters will support alot of power on these.

 

Thanks Tim I just happened to look at your pics and notice the oil suppy area.I gotta say all you guys on here are great alot of guys won't share this info, I look forward to learning more and hopefully share my .02.Currently working on installing 10k potentiometer,I'm going to install it inline on the bluew/red wire.I have experience in wire when i was wrenching in shops and I have to agree that putting resistor inline is better.If the goal is to fool the computer into thinking the oil pressure is low, inline is the simplist way and safest-IMO.

 

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Coonhunter I forgot to give u credit for this style of mod but I totally agree!!!

 

Anybody else has the 10K mod like cOOn and fuelman? or anybody disagree with that?. if not Im going to change mine in that way if there are no contrs.

 

Well I will say that the 10K mod has been done differently than Joe and Fuelman for over 10 years now. Surely it works the way it has been done. And though I am not aware of any issues with the way they have done theirs I would be willing to bet there is a good reason its not been done with just one wire. One reason i can think of is making sure you have perfect connections since your dealing with only a 5v reference but that is easily done.

I would also suggest reading this link. this guys seems pretty smart so there is some reason he is using the diodes with the resistor and not just putting up with the regular old 10K mod or the version Joe and fuelman are doing.

http://www.freeautoadvice.com/board/...ML/005398.html

 

Tim I read the link on the 10k mod. The only reason the 1kresistor&3 diodes are on the system going to ground is to produce enough load to keep voltage that is supposed to go to the PCM from going to ground.From what i can tell this is used to protect the sensor itself from getting a surge after let off of WOT.While reading this I also noticed tha he still put 5.6k resistor(his choice) in line by cutting the blue/red wire.I can only assume that when some put mod between connectors is for easy removal while taking in for warranty work(while under warranty).

 

right, that guys way says that the "old fasion" way of cramming in the back of the sensor connector could be fatal(however unlikely) you cant overload the icp circuit, it is only 5 volts max, the sensor is safe to handle that. his diodes was a protection against a posiible overload from their version of the mod, they connected diodes to a direct ground (why i dont know) but that could damage the circuit. the way you did yours and the way i did mine accomplishes the same thing, my way simply eliminates spread connectors or 2 paths through the sensor, your way WILL NOT damage the sensor, the max the pcm will ever send is a hair under 5 volts. it is not capable of any more thus no sensor overload can ever happen, having the resistor after the sensor also helps from this "possible" flaw because any excess current flow is already past the sensor on its way to the pcm, no direct ground path to add extra current for the easier path as he is worried about

 

sounds good to me. You could be very correct about the way I did mine as to being able to remove it warrantee service. No need for that any more for any of us! yeehaa that means we can mod away with no concern! I am my own warrantee! I break, it I fix it!

 

and labor is dirt cheap too

 

I'm new reader here and have but one question. I have a 95 f-250 diesel that runs rough for 5-10 seconds after start-up. Air temp doesn't matter, engine temp doesn't matter. The only thing that helps is accelerateing just a bit will smooth it out. Idont believe there to be any mods on this pick-up, but I could be wrong. I did buy it used three years ago. This hick-up was there when I bought it. I did change the cam sensor. it didn't help. maybe valve-cover wiring is bad?

 

First off Welcome.
Second you may want to post a new thread with the question. But it sounds like the GP's are not working properly You may have one that is not working. Mine does the same thing, after start it misses when I drive it it clears up instantly. I have one bad GP. It is a good idea to inspect the UVC harness as you said. Also ohm out the GP's to isolate the problem. Need Help? Just ask. We are here to help.