60 223 radiator - 2 core? & fix/replace?
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From: Meta, MO
60 223 radiator - 2 core? & fix/replace?
I gave my radiator a flush and found all sorts of bad things.
I found a tear on the bottom tank 1/4" - 3/8" long and another crack that has started, but does not appear to be leaking yet.
I knew I had a bad seam on the top tank before I ever flushed it.
I also found at least two leaks from the grill (core) also. They are in the highest 4" of the core.
1st discussion:
My radiator seems to be a 2 row core, but all I hear everyone talking about is 3 row core for this year and engine. Even the replacement from online is listed as 3 rows.
Can mine be a correct original, or has it been replaced already?
2nd discussion:
I am taking the radiator in later this week. Hopefully a repair is possible. If not a recore or replace, I guess. Should the crack on the lower tank worry me? I know a good weld will make it better then new, but if this weld goes, I will be running on no (0, zero) coolant. Is this just a 'what feels good to me' thing since I am the final decision maker?
I read hear that some Dodge radiators fit well in these trucks (earlier 50's perhaps). Anybody have any opinions on replacement radiators?
I found a tear on the bottom tank 1/4" - 3/8" long and another crack that has started, but does not appear to be leaking yet.
I knew I had a bad seam on the top tank before I ever flushed it.
I also found at least two leaks from the grill (core) also. They are in the highest 4" of the core.
1st discussion:
My radiator seems to be a 2 row core, but all I hear everyone talking about is 3 row core for this year and engine. Even the replacement from online is listed as 3 rows.
Can mine be a correct original, or has it been replaced already?
2nd discussion:
I am taking the radiator in later this week. Hopefully a repair is possible. If not a recore or replace, I guess. Should the crack on the lower tank worry me? I know a good weld will make it better then new, but if this weld goes, I will be running on no (0, zero) coolant. Is this just a 'what feels good to me' thing since I am the final decision maker?
I read hear that some Dodge radiators fit well in these trucks (earlier 50's perhaps). Anybody have any opinions on replacement radiators?
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
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From: Escondido, CA
I have a Dodge radiator in my 64. The problem with Dodge rads is that the upper and lower tanks are different sizes so you can't upgrade the # of rows if you need to. A good shop will be able to repair the tanks and recore it for less then $200 in CA. Prices vary by location so keep that in mind. Best bet is to call the shop you are thinking of taking it to and see what they recommend. The local shop here has a bunch of extra parts from over the years to keep the costs down if your willing to accept used parts with a warrenty. I like that as an option personnaly. If you loose the fluid you can run the engine long enough to pull over and stop without hurting it. Engines aren't designed to run under load with no cooling though. The pistons can actually become lodged in the bore from expansion.
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From: Meta, MO
Just cruising Craiglist and found a new radiator that was in a 65 or 66 project rebuild.
Looking at specs, the width looks good, but the height is probably 2" shorter.
It could be 1 1/4" instead of 1 1/2" also, depends on what he is has.
Does a 2" height difference sound like a problem (18" instead of 20 1/8")?
$100 for a new radiator sure sounds like a good price if I can make it work.
Any thoughts?
Looking at specs, the width looks good, but the height is probably 2" shorter.
It could be 1 1/4" instead of 1 1/2" also, depends on what he is has.
Does a 2" height difference sound like a problem (18" instead of 20 1/8")?
$100 for a new radiator sure sounds like a good price if I can make it work.
Any thoughts?
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by oscarxyz
Just cruising Craiglist and found a new radiator that was in a 65 or 66 project rebuild.
Looking at specs, the width looks good, but the height is probably 2" shorter.
It could be 1 1/4" instead of 1 1/2" also, depends on what he is has.
Does a 2" height difference sound like a problem (18" instead of 20 1/8")?
$100 for a new radiator sure sounds like a good price if I can make it work.
Any thoughts?
Looking at specs, the width looks good, but the height is probably 2" shorter.
It could be 1 1/4" instead of 1 1/2" also, depends on what he is has.
Does a 2" height difference sound like a problem (18" instead of 20 1/8")?
$100 for a new radiator sure sounds like a good price if I can make it work.
Any thoughts?
1965/66 F100/250 V8 radiator core dimensions: 26 1/4"-wide / 19 3/4"-high / 1 3/4" core thickness.
It's not the height you have to worry about..unless there's a clearance issue with the hood.
The core width needs to match the radiator support opening, otherwise you will have to trim the radiator support, and re-drill the mounting holes.
Buying someone else's radiator is like buying a pig in a poke. Is it a recore, a rodded out core, or just repainted?
Unless you have x-ray vision, how do you know the core is good?
Besides, buying a so called "new radiator" (ask for the receipt) from a private party means: as is, where is.
No guarantee.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Aug 14, 2007 at 05:39 PM.
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From: Meta, MO
Here is a big stupid "DUH" for you other guys and gals new enough to this to wonder.
My neighbor thought we/he could repair the radiator and wanted to know where the holes were in the core.
In my desire to work on the core, I used JB Weld to patch the hole in the bottom tank and the seam leak in the top tank.
The repairs held up to a water & air pressure test, but as soon as I put the radiator back in the truck and got the water hot, the seam leak let go again.
I always knew from my past jobs that you should not cold solder a wire connection because it just coats the wire and doesn't adhere to it. Looks like the same thing with JB Weld.
Now I am back to pulling the radiator again and doing it right this time.
Hope sharing my experience keeps someone else from doing similar.
My neighbor thought we/he could repair the radiator and wanted to know where the holes were in the core.
In my desire to work on the core, I used JB Weld to patch the hole in the bottom tank and the seam leak in the top tank.
The repairs held up to a water & air pressure test, but as soon as I put the radiator back in the truck and got the water hot, the seam leak let go again.
I always knew from my past jobs that you should not cold solder a wire connection because it just coats the wire and doesn't adhere to it. Looks like the same thing with JB Weld.
Now I am back to pulling the radiator again and doing it right this time.
Hope sharing my experience keeps someone else from doing similar.
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