New air filter system?
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Senior User
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New air filter system?
I want to get rid off the stock air filter in my 01/ 7.3/ f350 and put something on that breaths nice. I need your guys input whats the best and where i can buy it from canada.And I also want to ditch my muffler.Is this a good idea and will it drop my egt temp? thanks Rus
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Columbia, MO
Read here for some air filter info: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...s-h-u-g-e.html It's cheap and easy.
Getting a different muffler should help with your egt's some. You can go with a straight-thru type like a Magnaflow, but a lot of guys have just straight piped their exhaust.
Getting a different muffler should help with your egt's some. You can go with a straight-thru type like a Magnaflow, but a lot of guys have just straight piped their exhaust.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: British Columbia, Canada
Air filter
I just did this mod on my own 01 powerstroker, go to a napa auto parts and ask for napa #6637 air filter , crosses with a wix #46637. You will also need a 4" x 6" piece of exhuast tube, you will need to remove exsisting airbox,filter and battery cover on drivers side leaving the black flex hose to turbo intact. Place metal tube into filter opening and attach with screw clamp, leave loose for now place filter and metal into turbo hose,air filter will now fit down between battery and master cylinder, align everthing up and tighten clamps, The filter minder guage can just be taped out way or you can drill a hole for it in the metal tube for a factory look. I could email you pic of the install if you like? Good luck
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: La La Land
I wouldn't mount the FilterMinder in the metal tube. Testing, here on this forum, has shown that the air rushing by creates a venturi-effect low pressure, which will cause the FilterMinder to read drastically wrong.
If you want to retain the FilterMinder, the best way is to drill a hole for it in the opposite end of the filter itself, which is where there'll be virtually no moving air, but will accurately sense the pressure differential across the filter media.
The only downside to this is that a hole needs to be drilled each time a filter is changed, but unless you drive dusty roads constantly, that will be a long time into the future.
Pop
If you want to retain the FilterMinder, the best way is to drill a hole for it in the opposite end of the filter itself, which is where there'll be virtually no moving air, but will accurately sense the pressure differential across the filter media.
The only downside to this is that a hole needs to be drilled each time a filter is changed, but unless you drive dusty roads constantly, that will be a long time into the future.
Pop
Last edited by SpringerPop; Aug 11, 2007 at 02:26 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
....or you could just dump it in the can with the rest of the air box. Not too sure that thing is very useful anyway. I think you'd be better off (if you're going to drill) to extend the wiring on the IAT sensor and put it there. I have mine just zip-tied to the brake master cylinder right next to the filter, though. Works fine!! Have a look:
BTW, I just intalled the filter on the end of the tube -- no exhaust pipe or anything. Clean the end of the tube and rough up the neck of the filter so the tube has something a little rougher to "bite" into. Been holding fine for six months...
Joe
BTW, I just intalled the filter on the end of the tube -- no exhaust pipe or anything. Clean the end of the tube and rough up the neck of the filter so the tube has something a little rougher to "bite" into. Been holding fine for six months...
Joe
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From: Columbia, MO
Originally Posted by SpringerPop
If you want to retain the FilterMinder, the best way is to drill a hole for it in the opposite end of the filter itself, which is where there'll be virtually no moving air, but will accurately sense the pressure differential across the filter media.
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The 6637 air filter is very a pricey $62.00. Can this filter be sent away and cleaned and reused?
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Cargo Master
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From: Alamo city
I prefer my S&B filter system, that is pulling in "cool" air from the fender well...rather than "hot" air from the engine bay. Down here in the south with soaring temps, I tend to believe that is important.
My 2 cents.
My 2 cents.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
Originally Posted by crosbo
I prefer my S&B filter system, that is pulling in "cool" air from the fender well...rather than "hot" air from the engine bay. Down here in the south with soaring temps, I tend to believe that is important.
My 2 cents.
My 2 cents.
Last edited by ron's power stoke; Aug 11, 2007 at 06:29 PM.
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From: Alamo city
Thanx Ron, I was concerned with that, but couldn't find a way for anything to really get past the fender liner to reach the air intake tube on the filter box.
I've since decided to cut a hole in the filter box, add a flange and plumb an tube to the hole I had cut next to the radiator to get clean cool air to the original filter box tube. Once I do that, I may close off the tube to the fender well.
I've since decided to cut a hole in the filter box, add a flange and plumb an tube to the hole I had cut next to the radiator to get clean cool air to the original filter box tube. Once I do that, I may close off the tube to the fender well.
Post Fiend
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From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
it gets though the seems in the fender and fenderwell...some times a heavy wind will open that seem up a little ...thats a good idea..i been thinking of useing the stock snorkel and doing the same thing..just no time yet..i did have the zoodad mod done a long time ago with the stock box..
Last edited by ron's power stoke; Aug 11, 2007 at 06:36 PM.
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From: Alamo city
Yep, I did the same...dug the stock snorkel out and was looking to see how I could "adapt it" to fit my S&B filter box. Then my son and I were in Pep Boys wondering around and I notice some flanges, then some tubes in the "ricer" section of the store and suddenly a new idea was born. It's funny what I've considered doing in pursuit of more whistle (Diesel Power magarzine test article convinced me on the S&B over the other filter systems they tested), short of replacing the turbo wheel (although it would reportedly solving my surging).
I like a clean look...but sometimes I wish I could find a snorkel system like they put on Land Rovers...now that would be nice.
I like a clean look...but sometimes I wish I could find a snorkel system like they put on Land Rovers...now that would be nice.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Fulltime RVer
I'll pass on my 8.5 years of towing experience using a number of air intake systems. After starting out with an early 99 stock truck which I bought new in Jan 99, and becoming a fulltime RVer that fall, and towing stock from Washington, DC to Mission, TX for the winter, the truck mods began. I first added a Zoodad (didn't know it's name then) + an updated 99.5 air box with a flat K&N and a Banks Stinger kit, and towed with that setup for several years. I then switched to a K&N Aircharger cone for several years, and wound up blowing my turbo. I then installed an AIS + TAG2, and I'm still using this setup.
I'm convinced that I had/have more power for towing grades with either of the air box setups, than with the under the hood cone. I think that has a lot to do with NOT pulling a lot of hot under the hood air into the turbo, but air box related air flow effects vs cone effects might also have played a role. My many temp measurements have convinced me that under the hood filters draw in much hotter air than does an air box + Zoodad setup after you tow for an hour or more in hot weather.
I'm convinced that I had/have more power for towing grades with either of the air box setups, than with the under the hood cone. I think that has a lot to do with NOT pulling a lot of hot under the hood air into the turbo, but air box related air flow effects vs cone effects might also have played a role. My many temp measurements have convinced me that under the hood filters draw in much hotter air than does an air box + Zoodad setup after you tow for an hour or more in hot weather.
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From: Alamo city
I concur with Eugene...and did not want to be sucking in hot air from under the hood...or at least limit it as much as possible. Which is also why I sealed up all "cracks" in the S&B box (filter tube to box mating surface and lid to box surface), then even sealed around the fenderwell to air intake tube on the box...all in an effort to pull as little engine compartment air in as possible.
I want more whistle, but not willing to compromise by making changes to be sucking in more engine-heated air. Which is also why I didn't care for many of the "cold air intake" systems out there...the ones that supposedly seal up against the hood to prevent hot air from the engine bay being sucked in. I saw too many that just didn't look as "clean" as I wanted mine to be.
I hope to have my old zoodad conversion adapted to my S&B box by next weekend. I first performed a zoodad years ago on my Mercedes and my RX7 convertible, when I noticed how "blocked" the air intake was. When I purchased my Stroke, it only made sense. Months later, I discovered this forum...as well as the name for the modification.
Have a great weekend!
I want more whistle, but not willing to compromise by making changes to be sucking in more engine-heated air. Which is also why I didn't care for many of the "cold air intake" systems out there...the ones that supposedly seal up against the hood to prevent hot air from the engine bay being sucked in. I saw too many that just didn't look as "clean" as I wanted mine to be.
I hope to have my old zoodad conversion adapted to my S&B box by next weekend. I first performed a zoodad years ago on my Mercedes and my RX7 convertible, when I noticed how "blocked" the air intake was. When I purchased my Stroke, it only made sense. Months later, I discovered this forum...as well as the name for the modification.
Have a great weekend!