460 operating temp

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Aug 10, 2007 | 03:22 PM

roughcreekgang

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From: Washington

460 operating temp

I have a 88 F-250 460. I cannot find a spec on what the normal operating temp should be. (not looking in the right palces, I guess). It is running at 200 degrees (R on my factory guage, which is about mid range). I put a new VDO electric guage on with the sensor on the thermostat housing. And I have used a infrared temp reading device and the temp on the housing and the reading on the guage are only a couple degrees different. It is between 200 & 205 and when I put the A/C on it runs to 210-212. Seems to me that is hot. The rad cap and the termostat has been replaced and the mech told me it was a 190 thermostat. It will also run hotter if I have a load or am towing. (which I haven't done since installing the guage). I'm pretty sure I ned to replace the radiator, but what can I expect as a normal operating temerature?
Any input appreciated. Thanks.

Aug 10, 2007 | 05:10 PM

seventyseven250

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From: Calgary Canada

My two cents would be that if you have a 190 degree thermostat, normal operating temp must be hotter than that. I think I've heard that your engine oil should get hotter than 212 deg F to boil out any condensed water. I'd think your coolant should be around there.
I'm no expert though.

Aug 10, 2007 | 06:20 PM

Ultramagdan

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From: Kansas

Those temps don't sound to hot to me. The 460 motor will not run as efficiently at lower temps (180-190). Running a hotter stat will make it perform better.

Aug 10, 2007 | 09:25 PM

73F100*8Mile

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From: NE Ga

As long as you're not boiling coolant from having a low psi cap then you're good. Gm's electric fans aren't programmed to kick on until the OT reaches 210. No higher than 215 regularly then you're good. Unnecessary heat is bad heat. Makes everything break down that much faster in the underhood dept. W/ the A/c on it will climb but as long as it tops off somewhere and doesn't continue to climb. Then you have a problem w/ your cooling system dissapating the heat into the atmosphere. At that point you need to check everything over real well.

Aug 11, 2007 | 04:15 AM

Sycostang67

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From: Kuna ID

Dont the EFI motors usually run a hotter t-stat anyhow. Seems they like the 190's. Mine is carbed and I run a 180. Only time it hits 200 is towing up a long hill. Wish I had A/C to see what effect it had.

Aug 11, 2007 | 06:35 AM

73F100*8Mile

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From: NE Ga

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sycostang67

Yes they run a hotter stat in order that the motor runs hotter and burns cleaner for emissions sake.

Aug 11, 2007 | 06:59 AM

lsrx101

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Feb 2006

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From: Lorain County, Ohio

Quote:

Originally Posted by roughcreekgang

Those temps are just a bit high. Not alarmingly high, just consistant with an older vehicle whos radiator is starting to plug internally. I would expect to see temps like those if you were towing or had a load in the bed, but not running empty. If you put a load on it, the truck would likely run too hot or overheat.
Being an 88, the radiator is suspect if it's original. Running empty on an 80ish degree day, I would expect to see temps from 190-200. A rise in temp from the AC should not be noticable due to reserve capacity in your cooling system. (Your 10-12 drgree jump is the indicator in this case). That indicates that the rad has a hard time dissipating the extra heat load.

Start shopping for a radiator. Consider replacing the fan clutch too, if it is original. They're really only good for 8-10 years. After 10 years, most of them are weak at low speeds and idle. Your engine may not notice it, but the AC will. If your AC has been converted to R134a, only use a Motorcraft clutch.
Hope this helps.

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May 31, 2009 | 12:41 AM

roughcreekgang

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From: Washington

After a long delay I am back at it. I put in the Proline 4 row radiator and had the same problem. Now I have a good 4 row Modine sitting in the garage. So I replaced the 195 thermostate with a Robert Shaw 195 Thermostat and it no longer overheats when the A/C is on and idling. But still overheats with a load. A Ford water pump has been put in and a new Ford fan shroud. and the engine passed a block test. I hooked up to the trailer today and took it out to test on a good grade and temp went up to 225 before I got to the top. I have been told to drop my thermostat down to 160, but that doesn't make sense. Also that I should drill a hole in the thermostat and that would fix it. Something about preventing cavitation or getting all the air out.
Any input appreciated, Thanks.

Jun 2, 2009 | 03:49 PM

#10

maskedman

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From: Southern NM

What type of fan arrangement are you using?As suggested earlier,you need to check your fan clutch for proper operation.what condition is the a/c condenser in?What I mean is,is the condenser core clean,are there a lot of fins folded,or a lot of debris on the backside?You have relaced all the major components.Look for an air flow problem or restriction.You should not have any problems using a 190/195 thermostat.Let us know what you discover.

Jun 4, 2009 | 11:46 PM

#11

mebe2k

Laughing Gas

Joined: Dec 2003

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From: Ford, WA

as maskedman said..check the fan clutch.. it does make a difference.. especially at idle, slow speed and while pulling a hill...
also check out your hoses/connections..i've had a leaky hose connection make my motor run a little on the warm side before..

I used to have an old 78 ford motorhome with a 460 in it.. ran hotter than hell in the summer time.. replaced the radiator with a VERY nice 4 row, replaced a bunch of cooling system related parts and it STILL ran hot..i finally replaced the old 5 blade direct-drive flex fan with a 7 blade ford clutch fan and it never ran hot again... even with the A/C on driving around phoenix in the summer time..
maybe try looking for one of those old 7 blader fans if your truck has the 5 blader. they move more air.

Jul 11, 2009 | 12:40 PM

#12

roughcreekgang

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From: Washington

Back again. I really appreciate everyones input. Yes, when I replaced the radiator, I put on new hoses and checked the a/c core, even tho it was clear and had no bent fins, I washed it out with soapy water and rinsed with lo pressure water. I took it to a local mechanic who has done satisfactory work for me in the past. He found that the fan clutch was not working properly so replaced it. Altho he said he ran it hard and was not able to get it to overheat. I put the a/c on and ran it hard up the same hill and it went up to 220 with the truck empty and not pulling a trailer. I did some research on the net and found an article that said testing showed that a 2 row aluminum radiator (which is what I originally took off as it was leaking) disipates heat 30% more efficently that a 4 row copper radiator. Could this be my problem? I will check around for a 7 blade fan. Thanks for that input. I may have to find a different mechanic also. This is really getting to me.