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How much trouble will it be to change head gaskets? Do you have to lift the cab off of the frame to change them? I'm talking about new firerings and studs. Is there anybody out there that had this done? Let me know. Thanks
Shouldn't have to lift the cab of the frame. Once you remove the valve covers, oil rails, injectors and the rocker arms then that spacer piece it is going to seem like the head sits pretty far down in the truck. At least this is what i would say but i only assembled an 6.0 outside of the truck so it might be a little harder than what i may sound like.
In order to install Fire Rings you will need to machine the head or block deck.. With Hypermax Wire Rings you can do them without the machine work. However to install the ARP Headstuds which you will need/want with Wire or Fire-rings.. It will require removal of the cab or engine from the bay.. There is no possible way to get the rear studs in with the engine inside the bay.
Having done a few sets of injectors cab on and having done head studs and gaskets cab off, I would not ever do studs without pulling the cab. You could get most of them in without much trouble except the back few on the passenger side if you pull enough other stuff out. The major problem is getting a 5 ft long 3/4 inch drive torque wrench in there to torque them to spec
Ok, thanks again for the info. I am thinking about doing this next Spring. I would love to get this setup done so I can be the first one with dual turbos in a Ford around my area, there is nobody around my area that even have a Dodge with twins! Fords rules!
Last edited by Baddfx4; Aug 10, 2007 at 12:11 AM.
Reason: mis typed
In order to install Fire Rings you will need to machine the head or block deck.. With Hypermax Wire Rings you can do them without the machine work. However to install the ARP Headstuds which you will need/want with Wire or Fire-rings.. It will require removal of the cab or engine from the bay.. There is no possible way to get the rear studs in with the engine inside the bay.
Will this help the puking coolant syndrome and possible blown head gasket problems? Also how big of a turbo can you run on firering gaskets? (With all the machining work done) and how much boost will it handle? Thanks!
The true method to completely ending the Coolant Puke situation is ARP Headstuds, Wire or Fire-Rings and EGR Delete.. Even with Headstuds and Gaskets the EGR Cooler can fail and cause puking.. There are delete pipes available that completely block off and remove the EGR Cooler from the system.
Turbo size will determine the amount of boost you can build as well as with the 6.0, the Cam shaft. The 6.0 can withstand up to about 60 to 75lbs of boost with the right turbo's.. Larger turbos will build higher boost but take more time to spool.. This is a tricky subject as you have to mix match Turbo's.. One easy method to it is Sequential Turbo's.. Using a decent size turbo with quick spool time to get running and then engaging a larger turbo to increase boost at a certain RPM..
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
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