1984 Ford F150 XL 5.0L C6 Regular Cab SWB 4WD

I'm debating on just swapping cabs on the two trucks I have. Take the cab from my 1985 2WD F150 and swap it onto my 1984 4WD F150. Then, I'll have a short-bed to boot.

How hard of a job am I looking at? I expect it to be easier than swapping the front differential, transmission, and transfer case.

BTW, the motors will be removed from the trucks at the time of the swap. I would like to keep the fenders and radiator support connected to the cab. Is this possible, or do I have to take it all apart?

Thanks!

Nightrain

 

Thats sounds doable, just make sure you disconnect everything. I always forget something. Have plenty of friends to help you lift it.

 

I had in mind to pull the motors and yank the mount bolts. Then, raise each cab and clip and hold it up with railroad ties. Then, just roll one frame out from under each cab and clip and roll it under the other. It wouldn't be in the air no time.

I guess one good thing about this swap is the wiring will all be intact in each cab. I've just gotta plug it all back in.

Thanks for the reply, sycostang. I just wanted to make sure that I didn't miss out on any tips or tricks.

Nightrain

 

Hi nightrain, Yes, the cab and front clip will lift together.

Pull the front bumpers if the beds are staying on the frames, you got to clear one or the other when lifting up. I like to lift the body over the running gear, then pull the engines and tranys off the bare frames. It is so much easier working on them and lifting them that way if you have something to do the lifting? Take your time and try to find everything before you lift. It gets hairy when you try to lift and find a bunch of stuff still hooked up!

If you don't have a machine to do the lifting, you can do it by hand. Pull the clip apart. Unbolt the cab and roll it off the side on some grass or soft dirt after you remove the doors. Get everything mechanical situated the way you want, then roll the good cab back onto the frame. 2 people or one determined person can do it that way.

Your going to be looking at over 900 pounds on the cab and clip, maybe up to 1400 pounds! Be carefull. I use a heavy boom and it is still a serious lift.

Nylon flat straps are the best thing ever for this operation. You can get something rated WAY over 2000 pounds fairly inexpensively. Go for overkill so that straps are the last thing you worry with during the lift.

Rig your lift straps from front to back on the cab only, not the clip. Your center of gravity will be strait up over your cowl vent. You might need a spur line from your hook to the radiator support to catch any little imballance and it will also stop most see-sawing, but the spur line shouldn't be given more than 100 pounds of tension.

Don't rig thru your door openings or lift by the roof! Run your 2 straps down each side of your rear window on the outside left and right, under your floor beside your rocker panels, up the firewall looping outside your front cab mounts, and hook all together somewhere over the cowl vent. Put some cardboard or something between your straps and the sharp edges (bottom of back cab wall, lip on firewall, etc.)

Things I forget before the lift, brake lines, e-brake cable.

Good luck and take pictures to sharw with everyone as you go!

 

Thanks for your reply, Mike.

The cabs will probably be pulled with the beds removed.

I was going to take some chunks of railroad ties or 4x4's and a jack at each corner. I was going to lift the cab and front clip just enough to roll the frame out from under it and roll the other frame underneath it. Should be quick and easy (Yeah, right... It never is for me).

I don't really have anything to do the lifting with except an engine hoist, tractor and boom pole, etc. Things along those lines.

I wish I had a car lift in a nice, high shop. You know, the lift that picks up the vehicle by placing the "pads" under the frame. Then, I could just put a pad under each cab corner and lift it as high as needed.

Nightrain

 

I've done one with the blocks like you mention too. When you block up the rear cab corners you lock the frame in because the tires hit your blocks when you try to roll the frame out. You can bridge agross with some planks or something and put your blocking wide enough to clear your tires when they roll out.

I eventually used a set of homemade HEAVY saw horses and a scaffolding walk board to get high enough and wide enough for the rear tires to clear. I didn't try it with the front clip on that time so I had to bridge both front anf rear cab corners. It was a nightmare!

I can see how you can get away with only bridging the rear cab corner and just blocking the front clip and rolling the frame out in reverse but that's putting all the weight of the front of the cab (where it is heaviest) onto the fender to cab connections. That's totally different than what I had in mind when I said I swap them with the clips still on with no problem. It might still be no problem the way you have in mind, I just haven't done one like that before and can see how it would put a lot more stress on the joints.

maybe someone has done a radiator support to rear cab corner block up before and can dive in here?

 

And one last thing if you promise your buddies beer they will come! Trust me, I know from experience!

 

Mike, that's kindly along the lines of what I was thinking.

I thought of bridging at the rear corners, front corners, and behind the radiator support (if possible), then jacking it all up enough to clear the wheels. If I had something to hoist the cab over the motor and all, that would be the way to go. But, I'll bet that I'll have to pull the motor since I won't be able to lift the cab over it with what I have.

It's time for ME to try the beer trick. It's always worked on getting me to go somewhere.

Nightrain

 

I'd say your best bet would be 6 or 8 people, have a few lift well the others push. Its worked a few times for us with truck beds, never tried it on a cab though.

Good luck, bring lots of beer, steaks on the grill too, that should make sure you get plenty of help.

 

I heard that, bud.

Steaks and beer... That's the way to go!

Nightrain

 

I've done about 10 body swaps removeing the front clip is only a few bolts more than you're allready taking out and it will make pulling the drive train easier everything unplugs electrically we use a cherry picker to lift the clip in one piece. The cab alone will tip the scales at 500 plus pounds with doors and interior. The front clip is another 300 with core support and hood. you may have to cut the floor for the 4x4 floor pan.An empty cab (no doors or seat) can be lifted by 4-6 people.

 

Yessir, damn right! Make sure you do the work first because if you feed and water em first they won't be much help!

 

I have done 4 or 5 cab swaps bcus were i live at in the south every thing is rusted and have to replace the cabs often . Anyway i use a big oak tree with a cumalong and a couple tow straps with the front clips attached it works like a charm and can change a cab out in about a day by myself, with the four wheel drive shifter, pull the carpeting out of your 2wd and on the tranny hump youll see an out line on top, just cut it out inside the out line and then take the tranny hump cover out of the 4wd and you can just use self tapping screws to secure it. good luck bud , post some pics for all to see.

 

83stepside, how do you route your straps when you're lifting the cab and clip all at one time? I've got a dandy oak tree or two out in the field that I think will be a big help.

Nightrain

 

i seen that done with a tow bed on a chevy the guy used a very big tree to do it had that bed hangin there almost a week.. it worked for him really well i bet ya can do it with a cab if u got a big tree just strap in 3 parts under the back middle and around front clip should have more then enuff straps to keep it safe and work freely
by the way steaks and beer to the guy that can get my truck runnin right... im buyin