1992 Ford F-150 Super Cab XLT 5.8L/E4OD 4x4

Here I am again, fellas... Doggone it. lol.

I'm in the middle of removing my harmonic balancer from the truck listed above to do a timing chain kit installation.

And, not even a 1/4-way into the job, I'm stuck. lol.

I CANNOT seem to break the main harmonic balancer bolt loose. I've got the pulley off and all, but I just can't break the main bolt loose. I can't seem to get enough "traction" with the tire-iron that I'm using for leverage. I've sprayed and sprayed and sprayed the bolt with WD-40, and she still won't budge. This is the most trouble that I can recall out of one of these hum-dingers...

Any ideas, fellas?

Thanks for ya'lls tremendous help!! FTE is the BEST!

Nightrain

 

Try using a BFH on the tire iron.

 

Big Frickin' Hammer?

lol.

Well, I got it off... I strapped a Craftsman "Chain-Gripper" around the balancer itself, let it rest against the alternator bracket, and then put hell to the ratchet. She finally broke loose.

Now, the balancer, timing cover, etc. is off.

And boy, am I glad I went ahead and took the "time" to change the timing chain... There's over 1.5" of slack in the chain! I've never seen one wore this bad... You can ALMOST pull the chain loose to the 1/2-diameter point of the crank gear. I'm suprised it never jumped...

Anyway, now it's just up to me to remove/reinstall the timing kit, and all of the other components.

Ya'll wish me luck!

Nightrain

 

I use a long breaker bar.....put it on the bolt and rest the end of the handle on the frame right by the steering box (make sure it's seated good on the frame), then remove the coil wire and give it a quick snap with the starter and it will pop right off.

glad you got it .....

 

Hemi, that's a neat-o idear. Never thought of that one.

I'll have to try that next time...

Nightrain

 

1/2" Impact Wrench does the trick for me, but I'm thinking that might not have been an option for you. Glad you got her broke free. The timing chain on my 77 F150 302 was just like you described. The nylon coated cam gear was almost stripped of the nylon on the teeth when I changed it out after 113,000 miles.

 

Hey Nightrain, I was at the same piont, I used a breaker bar but now I cant seem to get the Harmonic Balancer Off. Short of calling a Leprahcan to help me any advice for how to get that sucker off?? Any advise from anyone would help??

 

get a puller for it they make one it's called a Harmonic Balancer puller............

 

Most Auto Zone's have the "Loan-A-Tool" program, and that's where I rented mine from. Worked like a charm.

BTW, does the bolt that holds this balancer on have a washer that goes with it?

Good luck!

Nightrain

 

Yea the balancer bolt has a large flat washer behind it. You don't remove this and the balancer will not come off. To hold backup on the balancer for removal, I stick a phillips screw driver in a flywheel hole then let it jamb against the bellhousing while I use a breaker bar on the balancer bolt.

 

Thanks Nightrain. Gotta head to Auto-Ze-Ona!!! Thanks Everyone!!

 

OK One More Question before I pulled the Dizzy off when I lined up the timing to TDC this dizzy was in the 6 piston position? Someone told me that the cam gear and crank gear should line-up somehow. This is what the chain looks like now, where do they line up...

Thanks Again Guys for all the help so far...-Rev

 

Your crank gear should be straight up, just as you have it. The cam gear should be 180º off from where it is right now, so in this pic you have the engine set at TDC on the #1 exhaust stroke. One full revolution of the crank will bring you to TDC on the compression stroke. Look very carefully at the cam gear...in the pic you show, can you see the dot just below the chain right at the top of the gear? That dot should line up with the dot on the crank gear, they call that installing the timing set "dot to dot". When you have turned the engine one complete revolution by the crank the cam will turn one-half rev as it's geared to run half as fast as the crank. You will the see that the dot on the cam gear is actually between two gear teeth while the crank gear's dot is right dead center on the tooth. Line these up as close as you possibly can and the new timing set should pretty much slip straight on.

Nice clear pic...

 

The cam pin can be at either the 6 or 12 o'clock position, either way is correct. The cam makes one revolution for each two of the crank. As long as a straightedge lines the crank key and cam pin in line, it'll work. Some timing sets put the dot on the same side with the pin, some on the opposite side.

 

you can see the dot stamped into the cam gear next to the chain right @ 12:00 in the pic above....it needs to point at the crank gear so the dots line up faceing each other. I posted a pic in the other thread.........

The cam gear is 180* out and that chain looks used.... way too loose........