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93 F150 I6 stalls on the highway. After sitting for a minute it fires up and runs fine for anywhere from a day to a week. I drive about 90 miles a day and it's 90% highway. I've changed everything reasonable like relays and a junkyard ICM. Fuel press. is fine and no vacuum leaks. Electrical connections are spotless, new cat and a 2 year old egr. Fresh tune up, new coil and filters. No codes are being thrown. TPS and O2 are new enough. Junk yard EGR valve regulator was installed to take care of a code 6 months ago.
This is kind of a double post because this forum seemed more appropriate. This truck has 285,000 miles and runs well. I do my best with up keep but this has gotten the better of me. I can't be stalling out on the highway. TIA
I would guess your PCM is on its way out with bad caps.
If it were the PIP sensor you should get a code.
You change out a lot of thing that would not stall an engine on the hi-way.
If it were the fuel pump you would get a code also.
Do you wiggle the wiring when it dies?
If so it could be the wiring also if it starts back up after you do it.
The Ignition switch sometimes can do this also.
A PCM from the salvage yard should not cost more than about $30 to $50.
An ICM on a 93 is a TFI Module I believe. I'm using a junkyard one and having the same problem before and after the swap.
I replaced a lot of parts over the last 2 1/2 years for a lot of different reasons. I'll be honest and say that some of those reason were really bad guesses. I don't feel bad about that. Every education comes at a price. Is the PCM on the left by the emergency brake or is it one of the two boxes under the glove box?
I do understand that matching up a PCM is important as there are a bunch of different models and there are a couple of junk yards in the area. Thanks for the replies.
Is the PCM on the left by the emergency brake or is it one of the two boxes under the glove box?
Yes the PCM is in the driver side kick panel. It is accessible from under the hood and you will have to loosen the inter fender to get it out.
Make sure the truck you get the PCM out of has the same engine, transmission and is a MAP or MAF system. It should also have the same program code on it. The program code is the larger lettering on the PCM.
Sounds just like the typical Ford ignition module and/or pickup coil in the dizzy failure. If this is the distributor mounted ignition module, be aware that Ford recalled 5 MILLION of them several years ago. They were problematic from the first year (1983) they were used, A POS! Marked: E3EF-12A297-A1A; A2A = E43Z-12A297-A (Motorcraft DY-425)
The modules overheat, engine stalls, module cools, engine restarts...sooner or later the module will burn out = engine will not start.
Pickup coil (aka stator) inside the distributor..well known cut out issues. EEC IV Pickup Coil = E5PZ-12A112-A (Motorcraft DU-30-A)
Buying used parts to fix the problem is like buying oats. Do you want fresh oats or used oats found along the road? How do you know junkyard parts are any good?
Use a GENUINE Motorcraft module or pickup coil. The aftermarket modules and pickup coils sold by some parts stores are Made in China crappola.
Be very wary of "rebuilt" modules. All they do is stick 'em in an electronic bath, dry them out and into a fresh box they go.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Aug 10, 2007 at 08:23 AM.
I agree with both above posts but when the Pick-UP (AKA PIP Sensor) does this you normally get a code for loss of the PIP train and the ICM (old name TFI) has been changed and again no loss of PIP code.
No codes and if you read his other posts the only thing I could come up with is the PCM or wiring.
I agree with both above posts but when the Pick-UP (AKA PIP Sensor) does this you normally get a code for loss of the PIP train and the ICM (old name TFI) has been changed and again no loss of PIP code.
No codes and if you read his other posts the only thing I could come up with is the PCM or wiring.
Seeing as how you actually restated your original diagnosis with an explaination, I'll go with it. I doubt it's a wiring issue as the truck simply starts and runs after a minute or two.Now it's time for me to get that #. The picture was great. Thanks. That PIP Sensor is $140. This truck has not thrown any codes since a 332 prompted me to change the EGR Valve Regulator. I had picked one up at a junkyard like a year ago and just happened to have it laying around and it worked. My arguement for junkyard parts is that my truck has a lot more miles than most of the trucks in the yard. Those parts usually have much less wear.
Since I have no codes I'm not going to be buying the $140 PIP Sensor. All agreed? Thanks for the responses. I do appreciate the help.
Last edited by Alex2507; Aug 10, 2007 at 04:01 PM.
When our fuel pump started going out, it acted exactly the same way. I was finally able to diagnose it only after I installed an electrical gauge that read fuel pressure constantly.
The worse it ran, the lower the pressure was, it always tested well at idle.
I made quite a few posts here regarding the problem.
I had a similar problem in my diesel. It turned out to be a short in the main engine wiring harness that would cause the computer to try and reset while driving. This caused the stall and did not throw any codes. You might talk to a ford tech and ask if there are any common places to see a short in your truck. You can also read through the TSB's to see if there is one addressing this issue.
In the diagram below the program code is HUG2. [/QUOTE]
The guy at the junkyard said the part # is the one that starts with F4TF. Ayway I couldn't get a match with either. At the dealership they want $375. Nice, huh? If I spend that and it stalls again I'll feel like a bad diagnostitician. The big letters on my box say POP just in case anybody has one kicking around.
The worse it ran, the lower the pressure was, it always tested well at idle.
I made quite a few posts here regarding the problem.
I do not recall there was any fuel pump code.
I read your thread and our problems are different in nature. My truck runs great. Except for a couple of minutes a week where it won't run at all and after that 2 minutes is up it runs great.
I had a similar problem in my diesel. It turned out to be a short in the main engine wiring harness that would cause the computer to try and reset while driving. This caused the stall and did not throw any codes. You might talk to a ford tech and ask if there are any common places to see a short in your truck. You can also read through the TSB's to see if there is one addressing this issue.
This short would make it die and then it would stop being a short and allow the truck to run fine 2 minutes later? I'm not saying that we don't have the same problem I'm wanting to be sure that you are saying our symptoms are the same and then I guess it's time to unravel a harness.
Let me add in here that about a year ago it started stalling about 15 seconds after a cold start. I would restart it and it would be fine. I figured a check valve in the fuel system or a vacuum leak. The problem went away and has resurfaced. Just thought that might be a clue of sorts. I appreciate everybodies imput. Thanks.
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