Intermitent stalling problem

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Aug 11, 2007 | 07:03 PM

#16

F350-6

Post Fiend

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 26,966

Likes: 50

From: Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex2507

This short would make it die and then it would stop being a short and allow the truck to run fine 2 minutes later? I'm not saying that we don't have the same problem I'm wanting to be sure that you are saying our symptoms are the same and then I guess it's time to unravel a harness.

Unfortunately yes. It would die cruising down the road. I would coast over to the side and sit there for a couple of minutes then the truck would start up like nothing was wrong. I'd put in it neutral and try and start it while coasting down the road and it would crank, but not start. Just sat on the side of the road a couple of minutes and it would fire back up.

Aug 11, 2007 | 07:19 PM

#17

hatch_1989

Senior User

Joined: Sep 2005

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Mine would run great most of the time, when it had troubles if I shut it off it would start and run fine again.

If you dont want to spend the $$$ on an electrical fuel pressure gauge you might try laying a 2X4 up against the fuel tank next time it has trouble and swat it several times with a hammer, the vibration has been known to free up a sick pump.

I bought my gauge on ebay for $50.00 or $75.00. Its a Stewart Warner Maximum Perforance gauge. I was able to get an Autometer schreader valve adaptor at Advance Auto for about $10.00. Summitt sells them at a lower price but Advance didnt charge shipping.

I wired it directly off the battery circuit with an inline fuse and a toggle swithch to turn it on. To insure a good ground a ran a wire with a terminal to the bottom of the sending unit and latched it down with a thin (1/16 inch) jamnut. I rethreaded the jamnut with a NPT tap (1/8 inch? i dont recall) to insure a good solid connection.

I chose an electrical gauge rather than a mechanical as the pressure isolator for the mechanical gauge was more than the cost of the electrical gauge. If you dont run an isolator with a mechanical setup you fun the risk of spraying a pressurized gas mist into the interior should a fitting fail.

Aug 12, 2007 | 06:48 AM

#18

subford

Fleet Owner

Joined: Aug 2005

Posts: 23,667

Likes: 301

From: Easton,Ks

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex2507

The guy at the junkyard said the part # is the one that starts with F4TF. Ayway I couldn't get a match with either. At the dealership they want $375. Nice, huh? If I spend that and it stalls again I'll feel like a bad diagnostitician. The big letters on my box say POP just in case anybody has one kicking around.

I take it there is a 2 after the letters.
I see a PQP2 listed for
<table table="" style="font-size: 80%;" bgcolor="#ffffff" border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="1"><tbody><tr><td>PQP2</td> <td>4.9</td> <td>Bronco, F-x50 E-x50</td> <td>Manual</td></tr></tbody></table>at:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=17
but no POP.

Note if you find one out of a 4.9 Bronco, F150 or E150 about the same year (88-91) with a manual transmission it should work well enough for a test and may work fine for you.
As I said above do look for the part number to match, as it would be hard to find one with the same part number at a salvage yard.
They change the part number every year but the program code can cover a few years.
Even one out of a 4.9 truck with an AOD or C6 auto transmission would work OK and should work fine.
I would spend that kind of money on one. I keep a spare just to check to make sure I do not have a problem with the Computer if problem comes up.

I think the Autometer schreader valve adapter that hatch_1989 was talking about is a Ford schreader valve to a GM (A/C Type) adapter. If you buy one of these and have an old R12 Gauge set around you can tape the gauge to the windshield (like the dealers do) to read the pressure as you drive.

Last edited by subford; Aug 12, 2007 at 07:14 AM.

Aug 12, 2007 | 11:57 AM

#19

hatch_1989

Senior User

Joined: Sep 2005

Posts: 116

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The autometer adaptor has a male npt end that replaces the schreader valve core. The other side is a female npt that will take a standard npt sender.

I think its a 1/16 inch male npt to 1/8 inch female npt.

I have no idea what the GM fitting is.

I wanted a gauge that I could use as a semipermanent installation as mine wouldnt act up until it had run for a few hours.

Running a direct line from an EFI fuel system into the interior of a vehicle is a real safety issue. Gasoline vapor is explosive, not the liquid.

I would suggest, if your are convinced it is not a fuel pressure issue, consider replacing the TFI module. My prediction is, when you take it off, you will find all the heat conducting grease has dried. You might also consider replacing the coil as they can have hot run issues.

One thing you can do to help diagnose hot run electrical issues is to get a can of circuit board cooler and spray the suspected component. If it has a heat issue the cooling effect of the spray will allow it to function again.

Aug 22, 2007 | 08:08 PM

#20

Alex2507

Thread Starter

Junior User

Joined: Dec 2006

Posts: 75

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Problem solved.

I had removed the rear tank a couple of years ago so I went and got a new tank and pump for the rear. A comparison of what the pumps did in the morning with the key being turned to the on position (not started) produced different results indicating that the front was weak. I really think I got it this time. Really.

Thanks for all the help. When I do run into a PCM at the yards I'll be sure to grab it just to have it. $25. Thanks again.

Alex

Oct 5, 2007 | 09:02 PM

#21

ecu repair

New User

Joined: Oct 2007

Posts: 21

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ecu pcm repair

hey i repair ecu's at work for ford. i might be able to get you the computer your have and if not i can do a prom swap with your prom to a good board which i might have too. so if your interested 50.00 for a repair and 100.00 for a new one. 12 month guarantee. and ford lincoln or mercury eec4 same price.