Thanks Butch. Doing it by hand isn't that bad though.
Do I need to sand every part down to metal, or just the parts with rust?

Also, this is probably a stupid question.... but; When I sand the rust, and it is loose around where I sanded, it won't find little places and continue to rust those places will it? Like if I blow the rust off the cab, and it falls into little creveses, will it still eat the metal?

 

Been in and out of the paint and body business for years. If you want a paint job to last, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. You do not have to buy the "best" but cheap is cheap.

It is not necessary to remove good paint down to the metal. It is necessary to remove any bad paint, primer and rust. ALL RUST IS BAD. Use an etching primer on bare metal, it bonds better. The use a primer/surfacer to fill small scratches, etc. A good sealer prior to painting promotes adhesion and will require less of you color coat.

Even if you do not mind a flat finish or like less shine, how long would you like you paint job to last? It is a lot of hard labor, even if you like it as I do. Use better product and it will last longer.


Just my humble opinion.

 

Thanks for the info.

The previous owner used an affordable brand, wish I could remember what kind... but it was inexpensive anyway. The panel that he painted still looks REALLY good after 5 years, no clear coat, and it shines really well. I was really suprised. I just want something that won't bubble, have run streaks, or anything like that for awhile. I dont mind cheap paint chipping, its my daily driver/wheeler, I am not much into the looks.. Just want something decent.

Since I have never done this before, and there are TONS of opinions out there on this, I will just have to pick a route, try it, and see how it goes. I am on a tight budget, and obviously don't expect perfection.

So if there is surface rust, I should sand down the whole panel to metal shouldn't I? Otherwise won't that leave high/low spots?


Thanks.

 

Depends on the thickness of the paint and materials on the panel. You can usually sand the affected area to metal the feather the area around it. Here is how I did my last project on a bed on my sons S10.

Sand the rust spot to metal, feather the paint edges for a gradual change (no sharp paint edges. Then use a self etching primer if wanted ( to promote adhesion), let flash dry then a coat or tow of primer surfacer. Let dry completely, block sand entire area to paint with 400 to 600 grit wet sanding paper and wate until smooth, but not to metal. Spray with sealer then paint.

Most paint and parts suppliers sell their top of the line product plus a more afforadable brand of paint product. Use them for information on what, how and how much. They will be a great help. Each brand has it's own recipe, etc.

Good Luck.

 

It only has a thin coat of what looks to be primer. It looks like it was sanded to metal, and had a fine layer of primer sprayed on. I guess I might as well sand it all to metal. Does it matter what grit I use on the metal? I have been using 80 grit, and 120 when I see metal.


Thanks alot for the help!

 

120 on the metal would be fine. Smaller grit will get a smoother finish easier. If it only has primer, I would sand it all and recoat. Primer is a poor protection from moisture and rust. Most primers are not really water proof for the long term.

Looks like you are on the right track.

 

I finished sanding the first panel today...I can't wait untill I'm done with the fenders and can start on the hood,bed,etc. because they are flat and will be A LOT easier to sand. Anyhoo, I have a few questions:

What are the next steps? Primer, rust inhibitor,paint? Or should I get the metal really smooth? I used a worn 120grit over it and it came out pretty smooth.. I am going to use the duplicolor kit.

Thanks guys,

-Dallas

 

Get with the paint shop on this. While you definitely should go to bare metal, they may recommend a sealer shot on it first to seal the metal. Then primer, then primer sealer, then top coats. The problem with rusty metal is that it has penetrated rather far into the metal and the oxidation needs to be killed chemically.

 

It was only surface rust. I sanded the whole panel down to bare metal, and don't see anymore rust on it.

 

I would personally use a product such as DuPont VariPrime, a self etching two part primer for bare metal, then a primer/sufacer or sealer. Clean metal well prior to priming. A good coat of surfacer should take care of any very small imperfections. 120 grit should be smooth enough for priming.

 

Just one thing to think about,you dont really know what type of paint the guy used before,alot of paints are not compatible to one another,best insurance is an epoxy sealer/primer to put a barrier between the old and new to insure its goin to bond and stay there.
I use the Omni(now called Shopline) MP170 epoxy,which is just a cheaper brand of PPG,local jobber sells it to me for 60.00 for a gallon kit with the hardener,add 10% acetone makes it a sealer.
Most jobbers will sell the paint and primer by the quart too.
Just my .02 cents worth on single stage paints for a novice,once its layed down..its THERE,and if it has alot of imperfection or sprayed incorrectly most of the time you'll end up buying more paint to resand and spray again,its also not as easy to buff out like most think,you have very little to work with,always in feer of cutting too much right into the primer and everytime you cut into a single sage it takes alot of the color away,getting less bright everytime you sand and buff.
Basecoat/clearcoat is VERY forgiving in several ways,the basecoat is actualy a semi flat ,very easy to spray without runs and covers real well as long as you dont spray too heavy each coat.
Clearcoat is a bit more tricky but all you have to remember is not too wet,and not too dry,the major thing about clearcoat is even if you get a bunch of runs or orange peal?..as long as you put 2-3 good coats on,its very easy to sand and buff out and looks professional when done right...Just my .02cents worth.

I buy the Omni (shopline now) basecoats and clears for a very good price alot for guys wanting a cheaper descent paint job,120.00 for a gallon of basecoat including the gallon of reducer which makes 2 gallons of paint usable,like i said they sell it also by the quart kits too.
Clearcoats average between 60.00 to 100.00 a gallon with the hardener which usualy mixes to a gallon and a 1/4 or 1/2 of sprayable..MORE than enough for one vehicle.
Im not here to put down the cheap single stage paints but..its the usual,you get what you pay for but if you do your research and do everything right,you can do a sweet paint job that will last ALOT longer for just a few bucks more even as a first time paint job.

 

Thanks guys.

Fordcwazy: It is all down to bare metal, so I don't need to be worried about the paint the previous owner put on...right?

I was going to use the duplicolor paint kit, which includes primer,paint,and clear, with no mixing... But I will look into what everyone here has suggested. I planned on doing one panel at a time, so that if I don't like the color or quality I didn't just waste my time and money painting the whole truck that way.

 

Very correct,i thought you was just sanding the rust spots to bare metal.
But now that you are to bare metal it needs a good Etching or Epoxy primer for the bare metal,some of those kits dont have a good quality epoxy or self etching primer in it,just my opinion if the kit doesnt have it,get an epoxy primer.
If you youve takin care of the dents and dings already,you can spray the epoxy primer mixed as a sealer with a 1.4 sized tip which i beleive that harbor freight gun has in it at a slightly higher pressure and a few light coats at a time and it will lay like glass,no need for sanding smooth for the next stage.
If you dont put something good on that bare metal you'll be regretting it sooner than you think.
Just for the heck of it,go to your local paint and body shop supplier,tell them you want a whole kit if possible from primer to finish,mine cuts me good deals for buying it all off of them at one time as a kit.Might be worth a try anyhow,since your new to them they WANT your bussiness,but unfortunetly they can be the same way as any stores or people,some good..some bad,im lucky mine treats me real well.
Good luck on the paint job and dont be shy to ask questions as you are doing it,there is alot of knowledgable painters here.