I recently aquired a 1959 F600. The truck sat for about ten years. I didn't have much trouble getting it running but the carberator keeps overflowing. Someone had installed an electric fuel pump so I installed a new regulator but even set at two pounds the fuel keeps flowing. I can't find any manufacturers stamp and NAPA is not sure which needle and seat I would require.

Any insight would be appreciated.

 

Welcome to FTE

The 1957/63 Ford Truck Parts Catalog only lists a Holley carb for your application.

Holley carbs from this time frame have a 7 number ID code on the carb body itself, not on a tag. Sample: 5752310

IF the carburetor is a Holley 2 barrel, here are the parts.

>> (You failed to mention 2 or 4 barrel. If a 4 barrel, I'll list those parts in a different post)

The needle & seat comes with the carb kit, or is available separately.

C2TZ-9A586-K .. Carburetor Tune Up Kit (Motorcraft CT-185)

NOTE: C2TZ-9A586-L .. Carburetor kit is also shown for this application, I couldn't find a M/C number for this kit. The kit has the same parts as C2TZ-9A586-K does.

C2TZ-9564-B >> Replaced by >> C6AZ-9564-C .. Needle & Seat (Motorcraft CV-66)

REFERENCE: 1957/63 Ford Truck Parts Catalog / Carburetor Section 95.15 / Parts List # 15D

 

Welcome to FTE Hawkfan,
My newly rebuilt carb is doing the same thing to me, 1957 272 with 2 barrel.
I wish I had the answer, still trying to trouble shoot the problem myself.
Today I purchased a regulator hoping it would help but have not tested it yet. Now after reading your post im afraid this might not cure the problem.
I had originally rebuilt a holley carb and blamed the overflowing on my lack of rebuilding talent. 46Yblock happened to have a extra carb and had a pro rebuild it for me and im still overflowing at the carb, so go figure!

 

If you guys are installing the Spectre regulator commonly sold at AutoZone and Checker, it is not likely to help. Try the Holley one selling for about $16 at the same places.

 

you need to figure out if its holley or autolite.
stock should be holley. mine came with an autolite.
i'd bet its the needle/seat at fuel inlet.
then invest in a carb rebuild kit. $20-$30.
try "carburetor doctor" online for some good info.
walker manufacturing makes kits and distribute in US
napa may have what you need for less $.

 

The response is more than I expected. I should have clarified that I have a 4 barrel with two needle and seats and after close examination I can only find C30F AJ stamped on the left side base. The regulator I installed is a Mr Gasket (1 -5 lb). As long as I have so many pros available I am also having trouble with the two speed rear end I have to drive about 5 miles reving up and down double clutching and finally it will shift into high and then I'm good to go until I shift it down again. I believe it's electically actuated.

 

do you have a 59 truck manual?
i'll double check mine for your shifting problem.
along with the spec'd carb.

 

We had a '58 F600 with 292, 4v, 4 speed and 2 speed diff.

My dad finally dumped the 4bbl, as we were told it was obsolete and we kinda goofed it up a little trying to fix it. (all my fault....)

It had a governor on it, and the idle control was on the secondaries. It always ran rich.

He put a Ford 2bbl on it, and it ran just fine. A 292 isn't going to pull a lot of cfm anyway, so a larger model will feed it just fine.

As for the two speed.

To shift from lo to hi: With the throttle steady, pull up on the button. Lift the throttle. The shift should happen as soon as you lift. Hit the gas and you are in hi.

Hi to low: As the engine begins to strain (which is why you are down shifting) hold the throttle steady. Press down on the button. Stab the clutch. The shift should happen as soon as the clutch relieves the load. By staying on the gas, you will match engine rpm to the new ratio.

For split shifts, you really have to watch those. You gotta be quick and match the revs. Hard to do with the 4 foot shifter and 3 foot throws. (I exaggerate only slightly...)

You should not be using the clutch to shift the two speed like you do the trans. (except the downshift) You do use the clutch when split shifting, but I'd hold off on that till you sort out the diff.

 

The C3OF (1963) 4 barrel carburetor isn't original to your truck.

Both Holley and Auto-Lite 4V's were used in 1963 (C3OF). The Holleys were used on 289 Specials, the Auto-Lites on 352/390 Galaxies/Birds.

I'm guessing Auto-Lite because more were used then, but I'd hate to give out part numbers based on a guess.

What the heck, here are the choices:

AUTO-LITE 4V

C2SZ-9A586-D .. Carburetor Tune Up Kit (Motorcraft CT-191-A)

D0AZ-9564-B .. Needle & Seat PRIMARY (Motorcraft CV-58-A) Holley-SAME

D2AZ-9564-B .. Needle & Seat SECONDARY (Motorcraft CV-86-A) Holley-SAME

HOLLEY 4V

B9AZ-9A586-E .. Carburetor Tune Up Kit (Motorcraft CT-195-A)

D0AZ-9564-B .. Needle & Seat PRIMARY (Motorcraft CV-58-A) Autolite-SAME

D2AZ-9564-B .. Needle & Seat SECONDARY (Motorcraft CV-86-A) Autolite SAME

You lucked out on the needles and seats!
================================================== =====
EATON Model 1350 2 Speed Rear End

C2TZ-4A098-A .. Two Speed Electric Shift Repair Kit

B2Q-4100-B .. Two Speed Shift Motor

B2Q-4107-A .. 2 Speed Shift Switch

Eaton Model 1350 2 speed rear end. The switch attaches to the gear shift handle. The switch has a bright red ****. It could be bad, also the electric shift motor on the rear end might be the problem.

NAPA can cross ALL these Ford numbers over to the brands they sell.

SHOP MANUAL >> A MUST HAVE: faxonautolit.com

originals & re-printed originals.