I'm looking into replacing my tired 270,000-mile 5.4L with something that has a little more kick. Has anyone put a 3V 5.4L (drive-by-wire and all) in an older Super Duty? Another option would be a 2V crate engine making over 300 HP if there is such an animal. Thanks in advance.

Brad

 

lightning motor swap. i want one real bad.

 

I think if I still have it when the v-10 pukes I will use a bbf, prob. based on a 460 like a 514 or so old school, carb. with dist. ignition. just have to use return fuel system.

 

There are a fews ways you could go here.

First, there is a world of performance parts for the 5.4L V-8. Why not rebuild your engine with a stroker kit, a hotter cam set for more bottom end grunt and some massaged heads? 6.0 liters and 450 HP are easily attainable with the right parts.

Second, it's becoming popular to swap a Cummins into a Super Duty truck. There are a few companies out there that specialize in the parts needed for the conversion. Regardless of what you think about Dodge trucks, Cummins does build a good engine.

It would be interesting to explore the 3V swap, or even just put the 3V heads on your existing block and use your existing electronics, but in the end that would get you about 300 HP. While 300 HP is a good number, I think you could do better with less money by rebuilding and modifying your existing engine.

Crate engines are available.

http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/...larcobra.shtml

That place will sell you one, up to 550 HP, but you're going to spend about as much on that engne as you would a new truck!

 

Wow! Considering the budget that I am on, I'll have to wait for the $16,000 engine!! I was leaning towards the 3V conversion since I have one in my E350 9500# work van and it'll run circles around my pickup! I could dream about putting a V10 or a diesel in it, but realistically I would probably just a truck already outfitted that way if I was so-inclined. I considered rebuilding this one, but I want an "in the garage on Friday, out by Sunday" experience!! I found some regular "pedestrian" replacement engines for $3500 with a warranty, but there doesn't seem to be anything in the middle.

 

You have to create something in the middle.

Get a Jasper Engine (or equivelent) rebuild, before you install it add a few performance parts. Maybe a better intake, better cams with more low end torque, headers, stuff like that. Even just a cam swap to something like a Comp Cams XE262H would wake the engine up.

Just remember these simple rules. First, don't build a Mustang engine. An engine that makes 600 HP at 7800 RPM is about worthless in an F-250. You want low end power, not high end power.

Second, match the parts you use. Don't get an intake designed to make peak power at 6500 RPM and a cam that has a power band from idle to 5000 RPM.

 

Rocket, I am in the same boat with you and I can tell you what me research has done for me. This could be a long post so I will say I'm sorry ahead of time!

My 5.4L has 220,000 miles and I have used it hard! It now will not hold oil pressure at idle and the bottom end sounds like a PSD. It is only a matter of time before it goes. I looked into geting it rebuilt, while running, thinking it would save a lot of money. I found that the core charges for these modular motors is so cheap that it does no good to freshen up a worn out motor while it is still running. Whether you drive it to the rebuild shop or blow it up with a piston through the block, it would only save $200 to rebuild. So, I am going to run it until it blows and hopfully it will go out in a blaze of glory at high rpm in a mud pit and not just lock up on the side of the interstate! A good engine like mine has been deserves a good death, LOL! A stock rebuild is not even available in my area because no one works on the modular motors, going out of town I have got prices from $3500 to $4000 if I bring them just the motor and reinstall it myself that cost $1500 at the local shops. So, I can get a stock rebuilt motor for $5500 and have a short warrenty.

I use mine for mud bogs and I am the extreme kind of guy so I want a lot of hp, as much as I can get without using a blower or NOS. I looked into the 3V swap in detail and have desided that it is not feasible for the money spent to get the extra hp. The entire wire harness, computer, fueling system, vacum system, etc. has to be changed over and it is not worth it.

I have already maxed my 5.4L out with the normal bolt on mods and I still wanted more and was getting ready to go into the heads and change cams and get them ported too. Then get a custom dyno tune and the works, this is not going to happen to my current motor now for good reasons.

IF, you are just looking for 300+ hp, then the best option I found is getting the Ford dealership to replace the engine with a new stock factory motor and then add the bolt on mods like air intake, exhaust and performance programmer. The dealer will sell you the long block or you can get a "stock" long block from somewhere else and have the local shop replace it, but you will only get about 12,000 mile/1 year warrenty. If the Ford dealer replaces it they give a 3 year/75,000 mile warrenty. Tax, title and tags cost will be about $5000 (exact cost one dealer said $4334.85 and the other said $5370.29), plus the bolt ons afterwards about another $1200 and will end up with a new 300+ hp 5.4L with a good warrenty for $6200.

The option I am going with, that may be yours too is an aftermarket performance block that will get the job done. There are several companys making long blocks that are made to take the heat of more hp, VT Engines, DSS Racing, Boss 360 and MMR to name a few I have found. I have clued in on MMR, www.modularmustangracing.com , and am thinking about getting a motor from them. They have a 5.4L long block that is hand built, balance and the works that can handle 700hp. Ordering it with the hotter cams I want, ported heads, high compression rings, high flow oil pump and a high flow intake plenum for $7500 and $1500 to install myself and $750 for the custom dyno tune to get the best out of it, total under $10,000 for about 525+hp.

Just the base model block from MMR is $4000 and you would have a bullet proff engine you can add to latter if you wanted. So, you can do it for $5500, but if that is want you wanted then just go with the Ford install option.

I hope this helps and saves you some time. Check around locally for rebuilt shop and prices because it may be cheaper around you but I wouldn't think so.

 

Redford, is right, the Ford option still gets you the engine for the job, a SD. You can tell MMR what you want and they can make a low end range motor for you too. Plus you know the parts match when you get it all done at the engine shop and delievered ready to bolt in.

 

I think that the Ford engine is the way to go for me. I suffer from that Italian disease...."Myfundzalo", so the least-expensive way out yielding the best results is what I want. This will be my first mod-motor experience - the one OHC engine I've done was a 2.0 Pontiac!! I'll check into the cam recommendations supplied. Thank you for your input!

 

Just an idea that my dad did when he rebuilt his 283 for his impalla is if you have a community college that has a motor class (nights) is that you can take that class. Its really really cheap usually. You just need to get the rebuild kits and all that and rebuild your motor thru the class. OFcourse youll be spending 2 or 3 nights a week doing night classes so dont know if that is a option.

In the end he had a sweet motor that really got on it.

Just a cheap option