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I've got this ranger that seems to be having a fuel delivery problem? Maybe a clogged fuel filter. Because when you start it, it will run fine for about 2 miles or when you slow down to turn or stop then it slowly loses RPMs and dies at about 300 RPMs. Then you have to wait about 5 minutes to start it up and then you can drive 2 more miles before it dies. It seemed to be working fine until we pulled into a parking lot, put it in park, and then it sputtered and died. If you try to start it up right away it just kind of turns the starter and engine and sputters buy never starts up. It has 226k miles on the 3.0 liter motor. The funny thing is after five minutes and you start it up it runs fine for the 2 miles or so, maybe a hint of hesitation upon acceleration but we got it up to 70 so we could coast after it died. So please help me out with this. This is basically the engine but it has had. If you need more information please ask. I really hope this is a simple fix.
If it helps any when we I went to supper and came back after 40 min it started up and ran at 2600 RPMs for a few minutes and then we let it idle for a few minutes and it never died. Then I went and took out a filter in the line and cleaned it out. Then after an hour when I was getting ready to take it home I started it and it ran for about two minutes before dieing and then it was back to waiting five minutes starting it and then getting about 2 miles on it before it died. Could it be some sort of heat issue? Is the fuel pump going out on it. Come on guys help me out, this has been a trusty pickup for 7 years, I can't let it quit now.
Good screen name Fordenthusiasts. Surprised that nobody else picked it up before now. I don't have the 3.0 or a Ranger of that vintage, but I do remember from past threads(at least for the 2.3 l) that a bad ignition control module(ICM) that becomes heat sensitive can cause that situation. A bad engine coolant temp sender can cause problems as the truck warms, but not to that extent. Sounds like you've got one of the 'never dies'(230k). That's a Ranger for ya.
Hang tight and someone with more experience with that model will chime in with what's up.
Thanks fflintstone, I was beginning to think no one was going to speak up and help me. Well tomorrow I will have a new fuel filter for it and put that in and see if it helps. I had my suspensions about it being ignition related but I really thought it was a fuel problem. Because thats what it sounds like when it starts to die it just kind of sits there and try to ignite and doesn't get enough power out of it to keep it going.
Hope someone else chimes in and helps. I was hoping to make it to at least 300k miles.
This is an update. I've replaced the fuel filter and it still dies. The funny thing is is that I drove it for 2 hrs before it died after letting it sit over night like something heats up and then cools off over night. Also I've noticed it has never died if the RPMs are kept above about 2000. What do you think that means. Sometimes while you are driving if it starts to sputter you can press on the gas a little more and it will recover. I did put a fuel pressure guage on the valve on top of the engine and it starts out at 45psi and then drops after a little while till it dies. I first thought it was the pump but howcome if you keep the RPMs up it doesn't die. So what does the fuel system on a 3.0l flex fuel look like, are there any more filters, regulators or anything else that might be bad?
I hope some of this information was helpful, so please help me I'm just about to take it to a mechanic.
I don't have the 3.0 or a Ranger of that vintage, but I do remember from past threads(at least for the 2.3 l) that a bad ignition control module(ICM) that becomes heat sensitive can cause that situation.
Fred, just a quck FYI, there is no seperate ignition control module (ICM) on an '00 Ranger; the functions of the ICM are instead incorporated into the PCM (which means basically that the PCM fires the coils directly).
Well the check engine light did come on and it was code PO171 which is something like fuel system lean bank 1. Which could have been dirty injectors, bad CTS, or vacuum leak. But then I disconnected the battery cable to reset it and then turned it on again and it has died three times since but the light hasn't come on yet. One thing I forgot to mention was when your idling in park, and it starts to sputter, if you step on the gas to try to rev it up it will almost choke it then you let off and it recovers a bit but eventually still dies.
Another thing I forgot to mention that makes me think that its not the fuel pump is that after the engine dies from sputtering the fuel pump only continues for about 2 sec like it is re pressurizing the system. I agree I think there might be a low fuel pressure but I was wondering if the is anything else between the pump and the valve on top of the engine other than the filter that could cause low pressure because it is clogged.
One more question if the key is in the on position but the engine is not running should the pump continually run or should it shut off after 2 sec?
The fuel pump is not supposed to run constantly if the engine is not running.
When the key is first turned from OFF to ON, the pump runs for 1-2 seconds in order to pressurize the system, and then shuts off until the engine is either cranking or running. That's the way the fuel system is designed.
I heard there is some sort of regulator or something on down the line from the filter that is for ethanol sensing so it can tell the engine what adjustments to make for the ethanol. Is there really something there and if there is can it get clogged?
I heard there is some sort of regulator or something on down the line from the filter that is for ethanol sensing so it can tell the engine what adjustments to make for the ethanol. Is there really something there and if there is can it get clogged?
It's called a "flex fuel sensor". I've never heard of one clogging up before, but I really don't know much about them, either. The sensor costs about 5 Benjamins from Ford (OEM-only part), so it's not something you can just change out on the cheap and see what happens.
Have you confirmed the low fuel pressure numbers you got before?
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