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hmmm, I see a home made option in the future. It would be nice to suck that stink back into the engine
Why? Such devices cost money and time to make. You are driving most of the time so do you really notice it? I can't say I do unless I leave the truck idle and stick my head underneath. I took out the hose going to the exhaust simply because it gathered oil and can freeze up in the winter. Now mine exhausts to the ground.
Mine dumps right below the driver's seat, and the only time I smell it is if I come to a stop light, with my window down, and the breeze wafts it just right... I might get a hint of it. The only way to get a steady whiff of it is to bend down and sniff around under the running board.
Sitting still w/ windows up, or just any time I'm actually driving/moving, it's completely unnoticeable.
I saw what International does and basically did the same with a rubber hose and not a rigid tube. It goes straight down.
I will never understand what it is with people that go sniffing at their truck. Sounds doggy to me. Kinda like dogs sniff each other's butt. Just like people talking about biodiesel and the french fry smell. I don't go sniffing exhaust so even if it smells like roses, I won't know or care.
Could someone with a CCV mod please give a detailed list and sizes of all that is needed to complete a CCV mod, including the lenth of hose to the back of the truck.
Could someone with a CCV mod please give a detailed list and sizes of all that is needed to complete a CCV mod, including the lenth of hose to the back of the truck.
Thanks in advance, Dave
davidw221 Welcome to FTE, You can get these a couple of ways. You can look in most gallery's(just click on a screen name and choose view gallery) most will give you a detailed step by step description on how to and sizes. I have one in mine, thanks to all the users on this site, they helped me and they can help you. You can also do a search on the top tool bar by typing any topic to search for past threads. Here is a link to another cool site that I got from FTE: http://www.7point3.com/Mods.aspx
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Last edited by Big Swole; Aug 10, 2007 at 04:52 PM.
Reason: Add a link
Could someone with a CCV mod please give a detailed list and sizes of all that is needed to complete a CCV mod, including the lenth of hose to the back of the truck.
I used 5/8ths heater hose (~23'), some zip ties, a 3" ID (it's 4" OD) PVC coupler for the CCV coupler replacement, and a 5/8ths hose coupler to join the new hose to the existing elbow. Then I ran the hose over the brake master cylinder, down the firewall, and along the frame to the back. No problems, and a super easy mod...
That was my first mod because of the oily mess. I can actually thank my oily block/CAC tubes for finding this site. When I did a search for something like "F250 Diesel oil leak" FTE was one of the hits. And now I've been a modding fool ever since. So I guess I can blame my PMS on that too.
I used 5/8ths heater hose (~23'), some zip ties, a 3" ID (it's 4" OD) PVC coupler for the CCV coupler replacement, and a 5/8ths hose coupler to join the new hose to the existing elbow. Then I ran the hose over the brake master cylinder, down the firewall, and along the frame to the back. No problems, and a super easy mod... Joe
Joe, problem with that arrangement is that I did the same thing except for the fact that I went to the hump above the axel and plumbed it into the exhaust. When I cut the line, I found thick black goop that was flowing like molasses. That is why I switched to having it drain onto the floor and it gets plumbed downards. Also I was reading that others have found increased pressure doing it this way instead of letting it vent to atmosphere.
Alother thing. 3 in ID and 4 OD tells me that the PVC tube is 1 in thick. That correct? I used the ITP kit and it bolts to the place where the CCV coupler used to go to so it doesn't do the Shake, Rattle and Roll.
Joe, problem with that arrangement is that I did the same thing except for the fact that I went to the hump above the axel and plumbed it into the exhaust. When I cut the line, I found thick black goop that was flowing like molasses. That is why I switched to having it drain onto the floor and it gets plumbed downards. Also I was reading that others have found increased pressure doing it this way instead of letting it vent to atmosphere.
I've heard something similar, but it takes a couple years. Next time I do it, I'll put in the clear tubing instead of the heater hose so I cane see what's in it. I should've mentioned that. If it's not too late, use clear tubing instead of heater hose...
Originally Posted by aklim
Alother thing. 3 in ID and 4 OD tells me that the PVC tube is 1 in thick. That correct? I used the ITP kit and it bolts to the place where the CCV coupler used to go to so it doesn't do the Shake, Rattle and Roll.
Nope. If it was 1" thick, it would only be 2" ID (there are TWO sides). I tried some lightweight sewer pipe, but it was a little too flimsy for my liking. That's why I switched to the coupler -- the extra thickness firmed it up. I just took my tape measure to Lowes and found a 4" OD coupler -- happened to be for 3" OD pipe. If I can find a piece of SS exhaust in good shape (I want it to look good), I'll probably use that. I'm still kicking myself in the **** for throwing away the 18" piece of SS I had left over from my MBRP install. Don't know what I was thinking...
Anyone have a 6 or 8" piece they wouldn't mind sending to me (I gladly pay shipping!!)...
The ITP Diesel was steel and pretty hard. It couldn't have been more than 1/8 inch thick metal. Like I said, it bolted up to the bracket just fine. I'd go that route first