I want to spend $1500.00 on performance parts for my 1999 F-350 and want to know what the best bang for my buck is... I want to know what the best chip/module is out that that gives me the most hp and torque and exhaust, cold air intake ect and if there are any other parts that i need without making my milage go down... The more hp adn the more torque the better

 

I would start with Gauges, intake, exhaust, DP tuner. Depending what brands you choose there goes your $1500, or you will have some money left for the BS mods, 203* t stat, ccv reroute, etc etc.

Try doing a search , this has been covered before.

 

That's about what I've spent so far. Still have my in-tank mods & TransGo Tugger to install, but my sig gives you the list I've done so far...

Joe

EDIT: BTW, I just drove a 2005 2500HD D-Max from Dallas to Hot Springs, AR (unloaded/no trailer on the way up, full bed load and nearly full 20' low-boy on the way back) and I have to say, my truck is noticeably faster and pulls harder. The D-max is totally stock of course but still, everything I've been hearing is that they're SO MUCH faster than our 7.3s that even a big list of mods won't catch them. I would guess that they have similar mod lists and will make a difference, but I can say that I would roast a stock one with no problems...

I'll post another thread later about it, but thought I'd bring it up here...

 

Strokin_it7.3 wrote this late last year. I have refered to it several times since. I still can't believe he is so young!! Good luck and let us know when ya need a hand.

Strokin_it7.3 wrote.
People have all stated their opinion, so i will state mine too. They all have the same logic, more air in, more air out, and less EGT (exhaust gas temperature).

If you gave me $2000 and said "Here, modify it" this is what i would do. Prices indicate that you install them. or, bring it to me and i would gladly do it for you

-Intake filter- www.fleetfilter.com part 46637($20) or Napa part number 6637-($40)

-Exhaust- Mark Romriell (MKO Diesel performance) 5" exhaust, muffler-less or with a muffler, about $350 shipped, very reasonable in price. Look on ebay for this guy.

-Gauges- If you are good at wiring, you can get the kit and do it your own, all of the wiring and painting of the pod. Kits usually cost $300-350, or if you want to have them ready to slap on and hook up, you can get them pre-wired and all for about $400. Ill figure $400 into the price. I personally prefer the brand of gauges -Autometer, but there are others like DiProcol, Isspro and Spa digital gauges. The common three parameters are EGT temp (pre-turbo), transmission temp, and turbo boost. I bought my gauges from Garrett @ www.puredieselpower.com

-Now you have the ability to get air in and out and monitor the temperatures, it's time for a chip. The man to call for chips is Jody Tipton at www.Dp-tuner.com, he can set you up with a fully customized chip for YOUR truck and yours only. It is much better than a generic tuner or fueling box, such as Edge, Superchip, Bully Dog, and Diablosport. His chips range from one single file for $239, to a an amazing 16 position chip with every imaginable tune on it, for about $40 more per tune. I myself am going to get rid of the TS performance chip i have now, and get a DP tuner 8 or 9 position chip. so, lets say that a 6 position chip will cost around $450. You still have around $750 left after shipping. Want to keep going?

Read on.


-Now you will probably enounter some problems such as throwing a code when you really romp on the pedal. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) thinks that the truck is running a stock program still, so it sees an abnormally high boost level, and it will throw a code. The fix for this is to go to www.itpdiesel.com, and buy a Overboost Regulator. It is about $45 or so, and it will get rid of this problem.

-Due to that chip adding more power to the engine, it has to force that power through the same transmission, that is not designed to handle the extra power. Call up Brian at BTS (brianstruckshop.com), and set up a custom-made transmission Valve Body. They run about $225, and if you tell Brian that you are running a Tipton chip, he can modify it custom for that chip. Also, tell Jody that you will be getting a BTS valve body (here we commonly call it a "BTS VB"), and he can tune the chip for the VB as well.

-A comfort mod is next, not one that produces power, but it makes the engine run smoother and quieter. there is a thing that is called a Stainless Steel High pressure Oil rail Crossover. It is a tube that adjoins the two oil rails (oil that is used to fire the injectors, 500psi-3000psi), and it acts as a shock absorber to make all 8 cylinders have relatively the same pressure. It is more expensive than a rubber version, but it's going to last forever, it's about $70. I believe you can get that at ITP when you buy that overboost regulator.

-Another comfort mod is to eliminate the quick-disconnect fittings on the suction-side of the fuel pump. The factory design has a crappy "mixing chamber" inside the tank, that lets air in the fuel, and the air in the fuel will cause the injectors to become louder, and it also shortens their life. Removing the Q/D's will also help prevent air from entering, as they work well under pressure, not so well under a suction. I believe this $40-70 mod can be purchased at ITP as well, a filter will be about $105 if added to the kit.

we have about $350 left.

-Your stock compressor wheel in the turbocharger will probably be hating life, as it tends to reach it's limit very quickly on the air it can push out of the turbo and into the engine, and it will shoot that air back out of the compressor, commonly called "surge". a cure for this is to install an aftermarket compressor wheel, designed to reduce or stop surge. it can be found cheapest at www.xtremediesel.com, for about $55.

While you are spending all of this money, i thought it would be nice to do some free or really cheap mods:

-rerouting the crankcase vent (CCV) to the atmosphere. the stock system reroutes this into the intake of the engine, and it's a dirty mess, as oil will seep out of the intercooler boots. You can do this mod for about $15, and the only thing i needed was a piece of 4" exhaust pipe, about 4" long, to replace the piece you remove. To get the gasses away from the engine, run a piece of 1/2" heater hose to whatever length you want it. I grew tired of the infamous cloud of mist coming out from under the truck, so i tied mine into my stacks. Look at the connector that is between your two rubber intake boots between the air filter and the turbo, you'll see what i mean.

Also, a FREE mod is to remove the foil on the driver's side intercooler pipe. It helps that whistle get a little louder, and it has no adverse affects. Disclaimer: it's a royal pain to get that stuff off. Let's spend some more money.

Some things that you want to keep track of, are transmission temps, and EGT temps. the transmission can get hot, so if you browse Ebay, you can get a 6.0L's transmission cooler (NEW) for about $100-125. installation is easy, several guys here have done it. The stock transmission cooler on these trucks sucks. I believe it is about the size of a keyboard. This new one is three times that size.

To reduce the EGT, a wise decision is to install another 6.0 part, this time an intercooler. It's a direct drop in, and some guys see a reduction in EGT of 100-150*, for about $100-150, again off ebay.

Well, i think this about depletes your fund. You will be out $2000, however the benefit in performance, and the massive grin on your face all the time is well worth the cost.[/QUOTE]

 

^^^ He left out shipping! LOL

 

Wow that post is still as shiney as when i wrote it

 

Thanks for all your help guys....

 

I have one question though how much stress will it but on the engine and turbo when i have the chip/tuner in the 140hp mode

 

Yep. That was a good post.

*side note, sent you a pm Kris

 

With that upgraded compressor wheel, it should keep boost within a safe range. The engine is designed to be run at a max rpm of 3400 rpm, keep it within 25psi on the turbocharger and that engine speed, and then all you will have to worry about is your transmission.

 

So 4300 rpm and 65 psi is no good?

 

Not for me, my checkbook cannot swing it, along with my rods. So no good. I don't need that. Really I don't. Why would I need that? Did I mention I don't need that? Does anyone know if I need that?

 

If you have billet rods, and a 42R, then go for it. Ooh you do, so well, go for it.