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My '95 F150 with 302 auto has an intermittent problem with stalling. After a lot of parts replacement and troubleshooting, I thought I had it chased down to a possible fuel pump problem in the rear tank. I found it would only stall when running on that tank with it half full or less. I figured the lower fuel level was allowing the pump to heat up and malfuntion. A few days ago it happened while switched to the front tank. I am planning a trip soon and want to do what I can to avoid problems during the trip. Can anyone offer any suggestions as to what the problem might be? I'm thinking of replacing the ignition control module and the fuel pressure regulator. Problem is, money is tight right now and I'm having
difficulties with another vehicle. Truck has about 135,000 miles on it. I've only owned it for about 2 years. I have already replaced IAC, TPS, Coolant temp., air charge temp, and oxygen sensors. Also has new plugs, wires, coil, Dist. cap and rotor. Engine runs very smooth, but dies just like ignition is switched off.
Does not spit, sputter or cough. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
I haven't got a check engine light. Would it still register a code? The last time I had problems with the truck, I went to Auto Zone and they tried to scan it. For some reason the scanner wouldn't work. They said connector or wires must be messed up.
I haven't got a check engine light. Would it still register a code? The last time I had problems with the truck, I went to Auto Zone and they tried to scan it. For some reason the scanner wouldn't work. They said connector or wires must be messed up.
Try to pull the codes yourself.
To check your codes if you do not know how go to one of these links below:
I had a problem a while ago where my truck would crank and crank but wouldn't fire. It ended up being a stator/ICM problem so you could be on the right track there. I'd find out for sure if you can pull codes or not and go from there. They don't always throw a CEL from what I've learned.
I went to site you guys suggested. Got 2 codes. One is 565 Canister purge circuit failure. Second is 212 Loss of IDM input to EEC or spout circuit grounded. I removed spout jumper clip when I set timing. That was quite a while back. Not sure what those codes mean or how it would cause stalling.
Possibly those are old codes.
You can disconnect your negative battery cable for about ten minutes to drop your old codes that are stored in memory, then ride around a little till it stalls, then check the codes again.
Did you check both KOEO and KOER codes ?
Sounds like a bad PIP sensor, you will more than likely want to change out the distributor.
Or it could be a wire shorting to ground or opening in the ignition system wiring.
I only did the Key Off Engine Off test. Is it necessary to do both? I was wondering rather it was the PIP sensor also. That distributor isn't cheap. Least expensive one I found was a rebuild for $99. You don't think it could be the fuel pump relay or ignition control module? Only other Ford I ever owned was a 1975 Granada. It used to stall just like this, then start right up. It was ignition control module.
This site indicates an ignition control module circuit fault for code 212. http://www.broncodata.com/tech/codes.htm
Doesn't the PIP sensor connect to control module?
I found an interesting site with an invention that pertains to the TFI module. http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6651637-description.html
I'm not sure I understand what they're saying though.
I guess I'll replace the Ignition module first. If that doesn't help, the
distributor with new PIP sensor will be next. I figure that if I can replace a few parts and manage to fix it, that I will still save money over a repair shop.
Sorry I did not look close enough at your post, when I read it I seen lost of PIP not IDM and I did not look up the code.
That said on a 1995 code 212 is only in the CONTINUOUS MEMORY test.
Possible Causes:
Open harness circuit.
Shorted harness circuit.
Damaged Ignition Control Module (ICM).
Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
I'm not sure what/where the harness circuit is. I'm really hoping it's not the PCM. I'm going to replace the ICM and go from there.
You should have CCD ignition, system "H".
As you can see from the diagram below the IDM just runs from the ICM pin #4 to the PCM pin #4 so wiring should not be to hard to ohm out.
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