OT: Aluminum block question
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OT: Aluminum block question
I am currently rebuilding a Jaguar V-8 (Hey, it technically is still a Ford) and have never dealt with an all aluminum block. I am worried about galling. I know stainless fasteners in aluminum can gall without lube or anti seize. But I thought galling will not happen between different metals (steel bolts and aluminum block). I like to use threadlocker also on head bolts etc as added insurance but using anti-seize with threadlocker reminds me of the Stephen Wright joke of locking a humidifer and de humidifer in the same room and seeing who wins.
So can I just use thread locker and no antiseize?
Sorry for the off topic question but as soon as I finish this jag rebuild, I can get back to my 54 F100. Thanks and hope I didn't violate some major site rule. I just know there is a very knowledgable group out there.
Thanks
Eric
So can I just use thread locker and no antiseize?
Sorry for the off topic question but as soon as I finish this jag rebuild, I can get back to my 54 F100. Thanks and hope I didn't violate some major site rule. I just know there is a very knowledgable group out there.
Thanks
Eric
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From: Riverside, So Cal
An aluminum block should have steel thread inserts in each tapped hole. Anti-seize isn't necessary. Thread locker is fine, if you want to be sure the bolts don't back out. I'm saying this with no specific knowledge of aluminum blocks, but rather aircraft applications. Threads in aluminum aren't worth didly.
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From: Brentwood, TN
I have quite a bit of experience with the GM LS1/6 engines and the Northstars. The difference in the head bolts (and what makes them work in the aluminum blocks without steel inserts) is the torque to yield bolts. They stretch more than the standard steel bolts and thereby place less strain on the threads in the aluminum block. These bolts come from the factory with two stripes of prep on the threads...since they are "use once then throw away" I never looked into what exactly it was that GM was using as a thread prep. Many folks make the mistake of chasing the threads in an aluminum block with a regular tap....this is a BIG no-no. There is a special thread chaser that actually rolls the threads and does not remove any of the aluminum. Most of the problems I have seen with these engines have been self-inflicted by owners and/or mechanics who are using ol' skool maintenance techniques.
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So where does one find these thread chasers for aluminum that roll, not cut?
The block is at the machine shop but I am pretty sure that there are not steel inserts for the threads but I'll check.
And for the record, ALBUQ F-1, this is the girlfriend's mom's car so I consider that more critcal than a measly aeroplane.
Eric
The block is at the machine shop but I am pretty sure that there are not steel inserts for the threads but I'll check.
And for the record, ALBUQ F-1, this is the girlfriend's mom's car so I consider that more critcal than a measly aeroplane.
Eric
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From: NM
Originally Posted by Minger
And for the record, ALBUQ F-1, this is the girlfriend's mom's car so I consider that more critical than a measly aeroplane.
Eric
Eric
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As someone told me when I started this project, "Even worse than talking religion or politics with family memebers is fixing their cars." So yeah, part of me is sweating it out that if it doesn't start, I just made a 2 ton paper weight. But if owning and working on cars were rational, this site wouldn't exsist would it? Besides, when this car runs, I love driving it.
But if it does turn into a paper weight, I will be sure to check the airplane I am jumping out of for steel inserts on it engines.
Eric
But if it does turn into a paper weight, I will be sure to check the airplane I am jumping out of for steel inserts on it engines.
Eric
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From: NM
One thing I do know about aluminum blocks; make sure to lightly counterbore the tapped holes in the block just a bit to make sure the block metal isn't pulled up past the flat surface at the holes. I know this is a key thing to do on Alfa and Maserati engines, it is needed for preventing head gasket leaks. If you have a manual I would check it closely!
Try a websearch for Jag enthusiast sites, too, although I suspect they talk about which wax is the best, and how to pass the Grey Poupon between cars without spilling!
Not many greasy fingers in that crowd!
Try a websearch for Jag enthusiast sites, too, although I suspect they talk about which wax is the best, and how to pass the Grey Poupon between cars without spilling!
Not many greasy fingers in that crowd!
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From: Brentwood, TN
Originally Posted by Minger
So where does one find these thread chasers for aluminum that roll, not cut?
The block is at the machine shop but I am pretty sure that there are not steel inserts for the threads but I'll check.
And for the record, ALBUQ F-1, this is the girlfriend's mom's car so I consider that more critcal than a measly aeroplane.
Eric
The block is at the machine shop but I am pretty sure that there are not steel inserts for the threads but I'll check.
And for the record, ALBUQ F-1, this is the girlfriend's mom's car so I consider that more critcal than a measly aeroplane.
Eric
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You guys crack me up with the best wax and grey poupon debate on the jag site becuase there certainly aren't as many dirty finger nails over there as there are here. There is a guy on the jag forum (jag-lovers.org) that wrote the how to book on rebuilding the nikasil plagued jag engines and I am following that. There is not factory manual for this rebuild that I could find. When I talked to the dealer, they said "Oh, we just install new engines" so not gonna spend $10k on car that is worth half that.
I figured with all the various combinatons shoved into our fords, most everything has been done or tried by someone out there and you guys didn't let me down. Thanks for the tips.
And incase anyone is wondering, dual overhead cams in a V-8 are nice for performance but man, lapping 32 valves by hand sure takes a looooooong time.
Eric
I figured with all the various combinatons shoved into our fords, most everything has been done or tried by someone out there and you guys didn't let me down. Thanks for the tips.
And incase anyone is wondering, dual overhead cams in a V-8 are nice for performance but man, lapping 32 valves by hand sure takes a looooooong time.
Eric
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Gotta love the leather car seat living room chairs and couches!!! I was going to do that once and never did.
I have a spare tailgate (doesn't fit anything correctly) that was on my 56 when I bought it. It could very well become my coffee table.
I have a spare tailgate (doesn't fit anything correctly) that was on my 56 when I bought it. It could very well become my coffee table.
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From: San Diego CA
I have a freind that has an old indy car engine for a coffee table. You know slab of glass sitting on injector stacks. Refering to the subject I've been into a couple Volvo Penta marine diesels. They helicoil almost every hole in those things. In the Buick 215s I've messed with I use regular steel fasteners with no thread lock or anti seize without problem.
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