good set
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
That`s one of the two things I don`t care for on a Y-Block, the rear mounted distributor and the lack of having a dual exhaust without big $$$$.
I guess I`ll have to go headers on the 53, gotta have duallies.....
I guess I`ll have to go headers on the 53, gotta have duallies.....
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Lead Driver
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From: Colonsay Sk. Canada
Originally Posted by 96sherm
the thing that gets me is the cost per HP difference between pushrod, (302,351, etc) and the flatty... anybody ever work out a ratio??
Post Fiend
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Yorkton Sask
$$ per HP. ever figure how much it costs to get 50 HP in a flatty versus 50 HP in a 302/351/etc. ?? not dissing any engine types, just looking at costs...
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Lead Driver
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From: Colonsay Sk. Canada
oh well 302's etc. probably get more bang for a dollars, but carbed 302's are alot cheaper hp. then EFI. But it is quite doable to get 50-100 more horsepower with a Flathead for 1000-1500 dollars. Headers, Cam, Intake, and 2x2 or 3x2 carbs.
for me 200 horsepower is enough espically when the motor is as small as a 239 cubic inch displacement.
our pushrod comment threw me off earlier.
for me 200 horsepower is enough espically when the motor is as small as a 239 cubic inch displacement.
our pushrod comment threw me off earlier.
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From: saskatoon, SK
the other flipside of the 2x2 or 3x2 is going with the 4 bbl adapter plate and run a 650cfm, you get roughly the same hp gains AND its a little better mileage, but it doesnt look as cool as 3 97's strombergs. I was thinking more like 250-300 HP for my flatty, but to each there own, eh ryan?
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From: Colonsay Sk. Canada
I think the 4bbl manifold is abit cheaper too and more readily avaiable.
Just wondering how do you think a single 94 would handle a lopey idle cam? I still know I wouldn't get the huge hp gains but still shouldn't be too bad, right?
Do I hear abit of a PMO, eh chris??
Just wondering how do you think a single 94 would handle a lopey idle cam? I still know I wouldn't get the huge hp gains but still shouldn't be too bad, right?
Do I hear abit of a PMO, eh chris??
Last edited by Snowking; Aug 4, 2007 at 06:06 PM.
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From: Saskatoon SK Canada
Sure carbed is slightly cheaper than EFI but it is much easier to tune EFI than a carb especially if you have 3 carbs.
With a carb you have to experiment with what jets and power valves are correct. For the most part it is trial and error plus each carb has to be disassembled every time.
With EFI you just need a tuner and a laptop. Hmm... it says it's running rich at idle and lean at WOT. So with a couple of key stokes I can retune the engine without having to touch a wrench.
EFI engines also have better torque curves than carbed engines.
With a carb you have to experiment with what jets and power valves are correct. For the most part it is trial and error plus each carb has to be disassembled every time.
With EFI you just need a tuner and a laptop. Hmm... it says it's running rich at idle and lean at WOT. So with a couple of key stokes I can retune the engine without having to touch a wrench.
EFI engines also have better torque curves than carbed engines.
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From: Colonsay Sk. Canada
Everthing you just said there is why I like carbs alot better. I may not have sensors to say running rich, you just gotta bend over the tailpipes, if you smell gas your running rich, if you see gas your really running rich.
Jets are easy a 53 jet is smaller then a 67, but a 71 jet is even bigger lol.
We all know multiple carbs are fairly finike and problematic for everday evercondition driving. No one is argueing that but it's all about coolness. If your wanting a truck to driving from late spring to early fall on cruises and even road trips they are fine and all. But yes for towing, regular racing, winter driving a 4 barrell is the way to go.
Once you are used to carbs there is no trial and error, espically with Holley. The carbs that are trial and error are those stupid Motorcraft Ford used in the 70's. The worked fine but are a complete hastle to tune.
Holles are simple, the have a sight hole, locking nut and adjusting screws and Done.
Jets are easy a 53 jet is smaller then a 67, but a 71 jet is even bigger lol.
We all know multiple carbs are fairly finike and problematic for everday evercondition driving. No one is argueing that but it's all about coolness. If your wanting a truck to driving from late spring to early fall on cruises and even road trips they are fine and all. But yes for towing, regular racing, winter driving a 4 barrell is the way to go.
Once you are used to carbs there is no trial and error, espically with Holley. The carbs that are trial and error are those stupid Motorcraft Ford used in the 70's. The worked fine but are a complete hastle to tune.
Holles are simple, the have a sight hole, locking nut and adjusting screws and Done.
Post Fiend
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Yorkton Sask
maybe pushrod wasn't the right term for it, but you know what i mean.
i gotta agree with nathan though, the modern methods are much simpler in some ways, more complicated in others... different strokes for different folks...
i gotta agree with nathan though, the modern methods are much simpler in some ways, more complicated in others... different strokes for different folks...
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From: Saskatoon SK Canada
I know to many great engine builders that call Holley carbs "sewer pipes". I personally would throw a Holley in the scrap pile before I used one, Model 94 excluded.
I've found they leak way too much and the governed ones are a nightmare.
I've found they leak way too much and the governed ones are a nightmare.