Taurus Fan Wiring
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From: La Grande, OR
Originally Posted by netscaner
however If you are driving down the road and the fan is shut off, the air coming through the grill will keep the fan going in the forward direction, and will generate a positive voltage that will keep the LED's lit.
Also, even if it did start generating electricity and sending it back through the LED, it wouldn't light it because the LED would be making electricity go -----> and the fan would make feedback through the line sending the current <------. Since LEDs only light up when the current runs across them and not to them, how would they light up?
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Postmaster
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Andy's right, once the fan turns off it becomes a generator if it continues to spin. Aside from that, I do believe you're correct about it not lighting the LEDs Nick... In my circuit simulation program the LEDs die out rather quickly after the fan is turned off even though the fan continues to spin for about 20-30 seconds because of the momentum it has gathered.
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From: Solon, Ohio
Originally Posted by nighthawk285
What??? I'm no electronics expert or anything, but I know some. Just because it's still going to be spinning doesn't mean that the electric motor in there is going to start generating electricity....right?
Also, even if it did start generating electricity and sending it back through the LED, it wouldn't light it because the LED would be making electricity go -----> and the fan would make feedback through the line sending the current <------. Since LEDs only light up when the current runs across them and not to them, how would they light up?
The circuits above show the diodes connected in a manner that requires a positive potential to light them. That positive potential is supplied by the relay as it supplies current to the motor. When it is off, and the motor is still spinning, a permanent magnet motor supplies the positive potential to the diode.
Or are you stating that the LED wouldn't light because the motor then acting as a generator is generating a negative potential in referrence to ground ?
Either way or whatever, it's become a mute point as far as this thread is concerned because the low speed and high speed windings are inner connected making it not possible to light each LED independantly as refferenced to the selected speed of the motor.
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From: Solon, Ohio
Originally Posted by Skandocious
Andy's right, once the fan turns off it becomes a generator if it continues to spin. Aside from that, I do believe you're correct about it not lighting the LEDs Nick... In my circuit simulation program the LEDs die out rather quickly after the fan is turned off even though the fan continues to spin for about 20-30 seconds because of the momentum it has gathered.
I can guarantee you the simulator program doesn't have provisions programmed into it addressing the fact that it becomes a generator as it continues to spin after a current is no longer supplied to it.
The spinning little fans that slowly come to a stop is just a cute little routine someone wrote into the program to kinda give it some resemblance to reality.
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Okay thats fine... I don't mean to contradict you Andy, you obviously know a lot more about electrical circuits than anyone else who has chosen to speak up on this thread (hmm, 3 people? lol). But seriously, you know your stuff, and I'm sure you're right on this one. And like you said, its a dead topic because I'm just gonna wire the LEDs to the 85 pin on the relay.
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From: Solon, Ohio
BTW Chris, there's a place out of Minnesota that ships almost instantly and stocks about any electronic part you could think of. I don't remember what there minimum order is, but you could probably get your relays, diodes, connectors from them.
I used to buy in quantities of usually 1000 or so minimum, so I don't know how they handle small orders.
"Digi-Key"
also "Megatronics" in Ohio
Also "All Electronics" and "Altronics" in California
You might google them and check out their sites.
I think either one or both of the California ones have surplus relays ect, and Megatronics does too.
I used to buy in quantities of usually 1000 or so minimum, so I don't know how they handle small orders.
"Digi-Key"
also "Megatronics" in Ohio
Also "All Electronics" and "Altronics" in California
You might google them and check out their sites.
I think either one or both of the California ones have surplus relays ect, and Megatronics does too.
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From: Solon, Ohio
Originally Posted by nighthawk285
Andy just out of curiosity where did you learn all this stuff? I would like to learn about this kind of thing
It's kinda the same with cars and trucks.
Back in the late fifties/early sixties the only electronics was an AM radio.
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Okay so I finally got my hands on the thermostatic controller that I was looking for. It has no fancy wires or relays, it is just a temp probe and a switch, just like how I depicted it in my schematic. So now I will be able to wire up my fan EXACTLY how it is shown in that schematic that I drew.
My only question is, in my diagram I have +12v switched power for the inductor side of the relay wired THROUGH my [makeshift] 3-way switch, while the +12v that powers the actual fan is wired directly to the fan from the battery. Is it okay to have the +12v switched power going right through the switch like it is in the diagram? That won't fry the switch?
ON EDIT: Also, I've got 15-20 feet of 10 guage wire while I have TONS of 14 gauge wire. Where should I be using the heavier 10 gauge and where is it safe to use the 14 gauge?
Here's the final diagram again, please correct any problems you see before I wire this into my truck and potentially start a fire:
My only question is, in my diagram I have +12v switched power for the inductor side of the relay wired THROUGH my [makeshift] 3-way switch, while the +12v that powers the actual fan is wired directly to the fan from the battery. Is it okay to have the +12v switched power going right through the switch like it is in the diagram? That won't fry the switch?
ON EDIT: Also, I've got 15-20 feet of 10 guage wire while I have TONS of 14 gauge wire. Where should I be using the heavier 10 gauge and where is it safe to use the 14 gauge?
Here's the final diagram again, please correct any problems you see before I wire this into my truck and potentially start a fire:
Last edited by Skandocious; Aug 9, 2007 at 08:28 PM.
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From: Solon, Ohio
You should use the 10 gauge from the battery to the relay contacts. Also from the contacts to the motors. Also the little jumper between the relays.
For all the others 14 is overkill, and probably even 18 would work.
For all the others 14 is overkill, and probably even 18 would work.
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
That's what I figured, fantastic. I'm gonna use the 14 gauge for the rest since I have a giant spool of it that I found in my garage, one of the many little gifts that my dad left for us 
So I'm assuming it's safe to run that switch inline with the rest of my components or should I run it in parallel? If so, what would be the correct way to wire that?
Also, and not necessarily directed at you Andy, if anyone knows what part number I need for the diodes please chime in, I'm pretty much in the dark on that. Lastly, what amperage fuse should be used after the +12v battery that is shown as a 12A fuse in my diagram?
So I'm assuming it's safe to run that switch inline with the rest of my components or should I run it in parallel? If so, what would be the correct way to wire that?Also, and not necessarily directed at you Andy, if anyone knows what part number I need for the diodes please chime in, I'm pretty much in the dark on that. Lastly, what amperage fuse should be used after the +12v battery that is shown as a 12A fuse in my diagram?