When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The center terminal of the switch would go to the battery connection.
One side of the switch would go to the +12 switched connection.
The other side of the switch would go through a diode to 85 on the high speed relay, just like the A/C is connected.
BTW, because you are using a switch and desiring it to stay on by itself when the thermostat calls for it, do not hook the +12 switched source to a 12 switched source, LOL.
The switch you are installing is the switched source.
I'm not sure I understand... You're saying NOT to connect that to a switched source (such as my ignition) but rather to a +12v constant because the 3-way switch I'm using IS the switch? But that would mean I would have to flick it to off whenever I get out of the truck correct? Because that is not what I want. I would like it to shut off when the truck shuts off, with the option of flipping the switch to the lower position to manually run the fan on high...
Last edited by Skandocious; Aug 2, 2007 at 11:17 PM.
Awesome man. Hey I really appreciate it, didn't mean to put you out. I won't be doing this for a couple days anyways so no rush.
Anyone else that wants to comment on the way I currently have it wired please do, I have no clue if and how any of this circuit works, although I do know how to wire it luckily
If you want everything to shut off no mater what when you shut off the ignition, then just hook the center of the switch to a switched source instead of the battery source.
ok, if you want the fan to run with the engine off, but want to have to worry about flipping off the switch instead of hooking the power source of the switch to the battery, connect it to a 12v switched source. That will make it work when the key is on, but the engine doesn't have to be running.
For LED indicators, tie one side of the LED to ground and the other through a 1K resistor to terminal 85 of the relay you want to indicate as being on.
The 1K (1000 ohms) value is ballpark and will depend on the led's you use and the brightness desired.
BTW, you mentioned in your first post needing 80-90 amps.
I think 10 amp relays will be quite sufficient.
Make sure you get DC relays, not AC, but they can be AC/DC.
They might have them at Radio Shack.
What makes you think 10 amp relays will suffice? I have read that the high speed spikes to 80-90amps when it first turns on and then levels out at around 40-50amps. How could a 10amp relay handle that?
The fan relays I have seen in cars are nowhere 50 amps.
As far as the turn on spikes, they kinda don't count because the relays are rated for their sustained current carrying capacity and of course have a much higher spike rating.
I may be wrong, but I doubt that the fan draws 50 amps continous.
You could test it by hooking it up to a battery first without a relay, and see how small of a fuse it will run on continously. I would start with 20 fuse then go lower.
SK, I hope your going to take pictures on which wires you hook into and the rest once your done. Those schematics are confusing. Of course your opinion on the electric vs the standard fan setup would be nice as well. There are conflicting opinions around these parts concerning the swap out.
The fan relays I have seen in cars are nowhere 50 amps.
As far as the turn on spikes, they kinda don't count because the relays are rated for their sustained current carrying capacity and of course have a much higher spike rating.
I may be wrong, but I doubt that the fan draws 50 amps continous.
You could test it by hooking it up to a battery first without a relay, and see how small of a fuse it will run on continously. I would start with 20 fuse then go lower.
50 Amps is a pretty big relay.
Actually every e-fan relay in cars i have seen is 50 amps and over. The taurus fan he is referring too has a spike of 130 amps on startup and draws 40 amps continuous on high speed so a 10 amp relay would not hold up to that. A lot of writeups i have seen reccomend a heavy duty 75amp bosch relay.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.