i have a 96 roller lifter 5.8l. it has 62,000 miles on it. in a 92 van with sd injection. it has a damaged lifter on the right bank (ticks for 30 seconds after start then shuts up). engine runs sweet. have great oil pressure. going to yank intake and valve covers to change lifters. what lifters should i get? comp cams or ford racing? (i was thinking the comp cams. i figure the comps would be more heavy duty then stock or like cheap mellings from auto part store. not changing the cam yet!! while i have it apart i also want to install pedistal mount roller rockers with 1.72 ratio ,and hardened push rods. will the roller rockers clear the stock valve springs (read that some hit the springs) and will the stock truck valve covers work if i just remove the baffles? there is a few companys that make rockers. most have a shim kit and one company makes a set that has adjusters that dont use shims (dont remember the brand name). looking for opinions on these rockers before i order them . and i need to know if they clear the covers (as above) and do i have to changes the stock valve springs to clear the rockers. not changing the cam because of eec4 system. figure i could get away with just changing the rocker ratio for now and keep the eec4 system till i have all the parts to do the mass air change over (collecting parts). this van gets driven every day to work pulling a trailer. so it needs to be done on the weekend and back running monday. have no room for intake spacer in a van so if stock valve covers wont clear i have to do some cutting and welding (cut valve cover in half horizontaly and add 3/4 inch sheet metal spacer and weld it back to gether) that will make the cover almost touch upper intake. any replys with info would be sweet . thanks for reading

 

in 96 that should be mass air already running obd-11. if its not your still ok with cam selection just keep the lobe seperation at 114* or more. but your combo running the 1.7 rockers is just as good. you shouldnt have to change out much just all the lifters and get the correct length pushrods. not sure on valve covers though.

 

Roller rockers will fit under stock truck valve covers.. they even fit under stock 5.0HO aluminum covers which are smaller than the steel covers. Some baffle trimming may be necessary, test fit and trim as required. No need to change the springs unless you change the cam.
Noisy lifters on cold start... what oil filter are you using? Fram and a few other cheap brands are known to cause this, the Ford FL1A cures this problem.

 

i`am using the fram filter and engine is a 96 but installed in a 92 van eec4 system. inside the engine is completely spotless (came from roll over van) with 46,000 miles. does have roller cam. i tore engine down to long block installed all new gaskets and seals. painted engine complete in detail . installed melling m83hv oil pump bought new oil pan and cut it out and welded in a drop so the oil pump cleared (have enough oil pressure for 2 302`s lol 60psi @ 1500 rpm and climbs . i run 20/50 oil during summer and 10/40 during winter . oil gets changed every 2000 miles . it made noise with both grade oils . have about 14000 miles on it since install. figure i better fix it before winter or worse damage happens. plus i hate the tick when it first starts. will change over to motorcraft filter and then run all synthetic oil . still looking for ideas on what brand rockers to go with thanks for replys

 

Yes, the motorcraft filter will fix that problem immediately, the Fram filters have a ****ty valve assembly that allows all the oil to drain out overnight. There's no way you should have noisy lifters with 46k on a motor... these things routinely go 200k. You don't need 20w50 either, 10w30 or 10w40 will be fine.
Buy quality rockers and they will last the life of the motor.. you can't go wrong with Crane and Motorcraft.

 

even if i change the filter and it stops ticking at start up i am still changing the lifters push rods and rockers you cant have parts with that kind of force banging around without something recieving excessive wear like a push rod end getting pounded up in the tube, or the push rod seat on the lifter getting distorted . have seen this in a few mustangs that had the same thing happen . it has to low of miles to just let it go . they are very hard to find with low miles thats why i`am getting so anel with it . plus it is real clean. the van it is in is a total rust bucket . but when you open the hood it looks like a crate engine . planning a lot more mods . tweecer,mass air, headers, cam, true duel exaust, 24 lb injectors. thats about as far as i can go with just stock e7 heads . would be sweet to make a 427 stroker out of it. have a 7200 lb van keep up with a stock mustang lol they would be pissed lol. thanks for the info and the replys

 

stock svo 302 roller lifters should do fine, same for the svo roller rockers, their Crane reboxed.

 

The Crane Gold and Crower stainless are about equal in quality and price. I like the Crowers, plus they're rebuildable- cheaper than buying new replacements. The Cranes used to be, but they don't any more. The Comp chromoly's are junk, IMO. Roller wheel and pushrod seat wear are terrible, at least on the 2 sets I tried.If you're on a budget, Harland Sharp or Scorpions are good. If money's no object, Jesel Sportsman's are great for stud applications.
This is what I'm using in a 331 under construction: http://www.mid-lift.com/PVS-PA.htm


Pete

 

Its the "polly locks" that go w/ roller rockers that will hit the baffels. I had the same problem, I took a hole saw , after I put a dab of grease on the polly lock 's and used that to mark the spot on the baffle to drill out, but after all that trouble, the PVC "sucked " oil, there is NO company that makes a plenimum spacer for that intake and therefore , I had to change my intake to the Edelbrock Truck 5.8 intake, to be able to use "TALL' valve covers, no more oil going through the PVC

 

whoa whoa whoa....know I'm confangled...I'm putting 1.7's on my 95 F-150...does that mean I'll need a different length pushrod?I didn't even think about the oil and the PCV...thanks...whoops...already pulled the baffles off.....

 

Just changing rocker arms, the stock push rods should work like new. If your going from pedistol mount rockers to stud mount with guide plates, you'll need hardened pushrods. On that note, Melling advertises their pushrods as hardened. Some are and some aren't even in the same box of 16. The trick is to look for a blue area where the end is welded on, the pushrods with the hint of blue at the welded end is hardened and you can't scratch it with a file. Sometimes there will be 5 pushrods out of 16, sometimes there will be none.

 

Thanks Jyro...ppreciate it...now all i gotta do is get this bolt out....Later on

JR