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I was just going to say that. Don't take this the wrong way, but replacing brakes lines is very simple to do. If you can't figure it out, then take it to someone, or have someone who knows what they're doing help you.
Brakes are not something you want to screw around with if you're not confident.
I'm confident but so far they aren't coming out. I don't know why. Maybe from the damn rust. No, I don't have a manual. Do the nuts that connect to the drum come out or is it the actual line? If it is the line then I think I have a problem. The metal line broke but the inside tube is still connected. It can be pulled out quite a bit farther though, but doesn't come out all the way.
Last edited by Kalashnikov; Jul 31, 2007 at 04:59 PM.
your line might have rusted into the wheel cylinder. The line should unscrew. There is a flare at the end of the brake line, and a nut that screws into the wheel cylinder. If your line broke so that there is not a nut that rotates on the end of the line, then you need to replace the wheel cylinder (which means redoing the whoel rear brakes).
If you don't plan on reusing the lines cut them with a hacksaw as close to the nut as possible. With the lines out of the way you can get a regular socket and ratchet over the flair nut. The flair nuts on mine kept getting rounder when trying to 'finess' them out with a flair nut wrench. I swear that brass they use is softer than some plastics.
No, I'm not reusing the lines seeing as they leak. The nut on the end is still there but doesn't appear to have any threads. I've already tried unscrewing it with no results. This is why I have asked for some help. It can be jiggled around in the hole and looks like it might pop out with some force.
Does the nut jiggle or the whole part that it is screwed into? I dealt with brake lines not too long ago and for the rears I broke off the lines at the nut rather than play with open-ends, and put a socket on them. Even a flare wrench couldn't get a bite on the flare nut because of the crusty corrosion. Never had 'em wiggle until they were almost out. Since you're this far and taking it to a shop is not an option without brakes, try to pull that nut out and tell us what's up at that point. (Some of those flare nuts are pretty long)
When these rust I run new from master back and just cut out old (it will leak ahead of fix.) Other than the tee junction the soft lines and wheel cylinder are no $$$ . But just spray down with penetrating fluid several time. Money says you will end up replacing some things if not come off. Just take time get good line wrench . And please bleed your brake really well.
I kinda figured that much once I saw the cable. Why is there a brake line that goes around the cable partially then just stops (you can see it in the picture)? I thought the emergency brake was completely mechanical?
Well this "nut" that I took off today has no threads. Now there is a line that goes into the drum that won't come out. Here are some pictures.
I was on your side until this. You need to get it towed to somewhere.
Drums aren't rocket science, but they aren't always obvious, either. You really don't have any business having this truck on the road until someone with a clue has his hands on it for a while. I did not want to be mean to you but a few flames might be what it takes here.
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