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This is the cam I have in my f150 now. But I am thinking about putting the lower end of the this motor in the Bronco. Will my stock bronco heads flow well enough or do I need to port them??
I know its not a big cam but I just don't want performance to suffer because I didn't spend the extra dime and have the heads ported when I had them rebuilt..
That's not a bad cam at all, and it's SD compatible(114LSA) so you don't need MAF if you match the engine displacement and computer(ie: 5.8 computer on a 5.8 motor..).
The motor will work and produce more power than a stock motor with the untouched E7 heads, but none of the ford castings flow exceptionally well and all will benefit from a porting job.. mainly on the exhaust side. I definitely would not put E6 heads on anything without extensive rework to unshrowd the intake valves and hog out the rediculously restrictive exhaust ports.
Originally Posted by Triple_E_Farms
The kit I bought for the mass air conversion states for 5.0 only!!!
Making it 5.8 compatible is as simple as moving 4 injector wires to get the HO/5.8 firing order.
there hasnt been real problems with the 347's unless you are using the technology from the early style kits...if you do you HW you will have a engine just as reliable as a 331.
JBrad-
What manufacturer kit would you recommend? I've personally seen a 347 scatter after 30,000 miles. The truck was anally maintained and that incident initially pushed me away from a stroker when my 5.0 got a bit too tired... I'm familiar with some blown 331's that have held up for a long time. It would be hard to pass up the 16 cubes if deemed reliable.
How do you alleviate the piston ring location so far up the skirt?
Are there still oil consumption issues with the newer 347's?
I have an old 5.0 roller block I'd like to play with...
post some links if you don't mind with rotating assemblies you'd recommend.
That's crazy that the machine shop guy told me that they flowed better than the stock heads that came on my 89 f150. The only reason I got them was I had one cracked head and he swapped them out for my good head and some change.
So is my 95 bronco SD? I thought it had a mass air meter. I asked because you said I didn't need the mass air conversion. But didn't really understand the part about the computer. I thought my stock ECU would work with that cam and block ( its only been bored .020) in my 95 bronco.
The reason you have problems finding spark plugs for E6SE heads is due to the fact that these fit only two heads------- the E6SE's and the GT40P heads. The E6SE's are a bad idea for anything above 302 cubic inches. They're not particularly good on that level either, unless all you want to do is pull stumps. You need to step up to a 351W instead of stroking a 302, you'll spend more dollars on a stroker and to get the same output.
That's crazy that the machine shop guy told me that they flowed better than the stock heads that came on my 89 f150. The only reason I got them was I had one cracked head and he swapped them out for my good head and some change.
Yeah.. he knows not about what he speaks.
Originally Posted by Triple_E_Farms
So is my 95 bronco SD? I thought it had a mass air meter.
I don't know.. you tell me, does it have a MAF meter?
Originally Posted by Triple_E_Farms
I thought my stock ECU would work with that cam and block ( its only been bored .020) in my 95 bronco.
What is the motor's firing order? What is the Cams firing order? If they match you're good, if not you have to move a few pins.
If i was going to use one on the street i'd go with is coast high performance because they use a shorter rod and move the oil rings up the piston...Its not ideal for super high performance applications but for the street it will be sufficient. Oil burning will go away and your gas mileage will be slightly better. Emmissions will also be better because less gasses will be hidden from the flame path.
I found a guy here local that builds alot high performance motors for dirt track cars and he said he would mill my heads to give me more compression and torque and then really open the exhaust side to make the engine breath better and do a valve job for about $550. It sound resonable to me.
I found a guy here local that builds alot high performance motors for dirt track cars and he said he would mill my heads to give me more compression and torque and then really open the exhaust side to make the engine breath better and do a valve job for about $550. It sound resonable to me.
For that price you could get a set of thumper e7 heads with reliable and repeatable flow numbers for your truck application.
i would (and did) go with the short rod 347, but ive got a severely space limited application (1975 ford maverick)... if id had the choice i totally would have used a 1994+ 351w... a whole lot less money, hydraulic roller block, and still 4 more cubes, but i couldnt do it without modifying the inner fenders. the short rod (5.315" vs 5.4" for the standard kits) keeps the piston pin out of the ring pack so you dont burn oil.
i can get a pair of gt-40 heads at the junkyard for 350 dollars, but i decided to spend a whole lot more on afr 185's because theyre a better head, especially for my application. right now the weak part of my 347 stroker is the block itself... ive seen pictures of 302 blocks split down the middle... not good. the 351w is a whole lot stronger block.
Last edited by darrin1999; Aug 4, 2007 at 12:39 PM.
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