I read a little closer and you're saying that I can rotate the shock shaft cover to get that off once the nut is held in place? I might be able to lock vise grips on that nut to hold it. Dang, I hate working upside down. I need access to a crane to hold the thing up by its front bumper!

 

The top of the shock shaft, above the nut, has flats on it to accomodate a "shock socket". Yes, they make a tool for that. Hold the end of the shaft and turn the nut with a proper gear-wrench. Vise-grips will do in a pinch.

And if you think that Gabriel and Monroe are as good as Bilsteins and Konis you haven't tried Bilsteins and Konis. There is no comparison. KYBs are almost as good for less money. I love my KYBs.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT

 

The biggest comparison of the shocks are the price. The Gabriels I got were $16, whereas locally the best price on Blitsteins were $98. If I still have my RV, I probably would've got the Blits, but I just can't justify it on the 2000 E-150. The main reason for the shock change was I was getting wheel hop when slowing to a stop. The new front Gabriels have taken care of that.

I just took another look at the left rear (The worst of the 2) and if the shock wrench with socket is more than 2.5 inches in height, it will not go over the shock post. I can just barely get a deep socket on it. I have a medium well socket that goes on it as it is just 2 inches. Even using the tools in the link above I won't have enough clearance to move the ratchet to the next tooth. I only get about 3 degrees of movement.

It seems the best bet with the tools I have is to use Vise Grips to grab the nut, and then use Channel Lock pliers to grab the housing that covers the shaft and turn it. But since I now don't have the time to compete the job before leaving Sat. I won't do anymore on it. When I get the chance to work on them again, I'm just going to crack the nut and then the shock will just drop down. If I had the air chisel I'd have tried that yesterday.

I'll try and remember to grab some pics when I do it.

 

Yes, you can rotate the shock body once the lower nut and bolt are removed. Good luck getting a shock socket up there ClubWagon. There's virtually no room above the shaft.

 

I was right next to Harbor Freight today and I forgot to stop there and pick up some of those cheap offset box-end ratchets. Dang. I remembered as I went into the hobby store, and forget when I came out. Probably was sticker shock as I purchased a new RC plane for my son.

 

Sooo....how did this go? I just bought some shocks for my '99 extended wagon ($45 each, "super duty" from NAPA). I slid underneath with my hand tools and...fuggedaboutit. Ain't happenin'.

So, I'm here a-searchin' for a solution...

 

Just removed all the top bolts on mine. Some tips, heat, heat and more heat. I used mapp gas torch for about a minute or two on each bolt. I could not hold the top bolt so I used a channel locks and held the body of the shock, a little clumsey but it worked. I got a 3/9 ratchet with a 1/2 long socket on the rear, after heat. Very slow going but I got all 4 top bolts off in about an hour and a half. One rear and one front bolt snapped after it was loosened up.

Kevin

 

For the rear shocks, I got in there with my sawzall and a good metal blade to cut through the threaded shaft just above the flange. Worked fine.