I'd really like to get Biltsteins for my 2000, but wow! Are they really worth the extra $$$$? I mean, for me to pay that much, I'd want to see a major increase in all aspects that a shock can control. I just don't think they'll give me $325 of satisfaction.

I've gotta do something this week as it's a 3000 mile trip the next week after that.

 

I don't think so, but I don't have Bilsteins or Ranchos. Have used Gabriel and Monroe with good results. My son had Monroe's (sensa-trac) on his f-150 and they actually bent when going over a rough RR crossing. They were replaced under warranty. Personally, I think the front end suspension is fine on Fords E vans (could use more travel), it is the rear suspension that causes rough/ jarring ride.......

 

Right now my front has the most problem. It feels like wheel hop as I stop. It's almost like warped rotors but I just changed those and while that problem went away, now I notice the 'wheel hop' and I'm guessing this van has OEM shocks. With all it's miles (130K) the shocks gotta be shot. I also have this one county road I use a lot, and its just right to give the van a good 3 rock and rolls. I don't think the road changed that quick as it just started doing that 3 weeks ago. I don't notice anything when I bounce the corners, but I've had shocks that were bad, but I couldn't tell for sure until I put new ones on.

I've always bought monroes or something else cheap before, and it's difficult thinking that $325 shocks are going to make a big difference over cheap ones especially when I think that at anytime, this engine could give it up and then I'd be stuck with a nice riding van, if it's pushed.

It's like when I took my daughter to Kohls yesterday to get a swimsuit. She picked one out that was $84! I took her to Kmart and she got one for $7.80 instead. Even the $7.80 swimsuit does what its supposed to do.

 

What kind of tires do you have and are they Extra Load? Do you like the 89 better than the 00 for ride. I had an '84 and a '92 e-150 and the '84 seemed to be more stout. I eventually put e-350 springs on my '92 e-150 and it made a world of difference.

 

They are light truck tires. I guess that's extra load isn't it? Converters like to change them to passenger tires but the vans are too heavy for those sidewalls and I get lots of tail wag with passenger tires.

The 2000 seems to have a better ride than the 89, and handles much better. However the 89 has been sitting almost 2 years now and I don't remember its ride anymore. I just can't bear to part with it for what I can get out of it. Even though it's worth $1500 or more, older conversion vans just don't sell well.

That's probably why my Ford dealer owner/friend sold me the 2000 2 years ago for $6000. That's what he gave the couple for it that had traded it in on something new. I looked up KBB and Nadaguides and the worth was $12k. Good timing as I was looking for something to replace the ailing-engined 89, and I called him and he had just gotten in the 2000 that day, and it was Jayco!(Which was on my wish list of conversions) I've always liked the look of the previous models of GM vans (I had an 85 Chevy), but I've grown to like the looks of this one. I definitely love what Jayco did with the inside.

 

Extra Load tires are rated for 2150 lbs each whereas standard are 1850 lbs (approx. for 235/75/15 radial) Check your tire size on a manufactureres web site and it will give you the load rating.
130,000 miles is just broken in by the way! 320,000 on my 92 e-350's 5.8 liter!

 

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I put a set of the bilsteins on my 04 (in 04) and immediately felt an improvement in ride and handling..... and that was taking the brand new shocks off and these right back on.

they are still working good and IMO worth the money

i also run load range E tires .. they have a stiffer sidewall and that will help reduce sway even more.

Frank

 

It all depends on what you're doing with the van. It's pretty well true that at 130k miles your shocks are done. I wouldn't use anything but gabriel or monroe OEM type shocks. There are other more expensive brands, but are they any better than the cheaper ones? I doubt it. There are different models of shocks in every brand, and all will have different characteristics. WIth only 130k on that 5.4 you've got a LOT of life left in that old girl. I'm curious as to what is wrong with the '89, my dad has an '88 with 300k+ miles on it.

 

Thanks for the info all.

My guess is the 89 needs valves ground. I had another 89 from a different conversion company that had less mileage, but ran about the same. The body was shot on that one and I wasn't thinking right at the time I got rid of it, because i should have pulled the 302 out of that one and put it in this one. Then I sold the 88 E-350 RV for $3000, and I probably should have just kept that and pulled the 460 from it and put it in the 89. Right now it needs a water pump and it'll be good for a while I think. I thought my 16 year old would want the 89 but he's happier with my 91 Caravan as he's short and can see out of that one better.

 

Idles a little funny huh? That seems to be a common occurance with the ford small blocks. I found that if you use cheap wires, cap and rotor on them they don't run well. You might try sinking ~$120 in wires, cap and rotor (all motorcraft if you can get them). See if it helps at all.

 

Back to the shocks. The fronts are done, but I went to do the rears, FORGET IT! Looks like the best way to get those off is to crack the nuts on the upper post. I can't think of any other possible way. I'm sure it's being done, but I don't want to take 5 hours each. I'm not going to worry about the rears until I get back from my trip in 2 weeks, but after that, I think I'll get a pneumatic chisel and see if I can crack the nut. It will come right out if I can get to it.

I tried getting my Sawzall in there and that was impossible. Not possible to get a ratchet wrench on top of the deep socket as there's no clearance. If there was such thing as an impact ratchet boxed end wrench, then maybe. I don't even think it's possible to get to the shock body nut to hold it from spinning either. These were obviously installed before the body was mounted.

 

I just started this on my '04 E350, the rears are a pain. I got a 15mm ratcheting wrench for the upper stud nut. If you can get a small hacksaw blade in there, cut off the threads above the nut. Lock the wrench against the body or frame and turn the shock body with your hands to loosen the nut off.

 

BTW, its much easier if you remove the wheels and jack the frame up til the axle's hanging.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90008

 

Even with that wrench, which I had thought of, how do you get any kind of angle on it to even move the wrench? I'm assuming you are doing it from under the van center as they angle in. I have a HarborFreight about 20 miles from here if you can get them off with that real quick. I hate buying Chinese but at $4 for those 3 wrenches, they can break and be replaced over and over, even if domestics can be found.

I did have it way up in the air with a forklift and the wheels off. I think it would be easy if I tip it up and stand it on the rear. : )

OK. so how the heck do you grab the shaft to keep it from spinning? Vise grips on the top of the shaft or could you grab the shaft nut?

I think if I used a hacksaw blade, I could go right through the rubber, below the nut and then it will be off. but I'm not sure I can even get a good angle and grip with the hacksaw blade. My first thought was the sawzall but I couldn't get the dang thing at any angle to even touch the shaft. I thought about cutting the shaft below the mount but it still wouldn't come out with that lack of clearance on the top.

I did a search back since this forum was started a few years ago and you're the only one I've found that has done it so your experience should be a sticky.

If I could get a pneumatic cutting tool in there, I'd try that, but I don't have one yet. I just got my big compressor about 2 weeks ago and I only have the pneumatic socket wrench. I think a pneumatic chisel might break that nut if the rubber mount doesn't take all the shock from the chisel.