stopping these sleds!
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 980
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From: Lunenburg, MA
stopping these sleds!
is there a viable a/m rotor that reduces braking distance? i have fairly new motorcraft rotors and pads, but the pig doesnt like to stop as good as i want it to, and they dust like crazy. it performs normal...just not to my liking. i know there are ceramic pads available(which are the best i hear), but im not "up-to-date" on rotors. ive seen drilled, slotted, drilled and slotted.....
i dont want to spend the money for something that doesnt work. when i had my tbird, i upgraded from the stock single piston calpiers to the mustang dual piston calipers, and it made a world of difference....but my expy already has dual piston calipers. please post with your experience on this issue, preferably on the expeditions. tia.
-jon
i dont want to spend the money for something that doesnt work. when i had my tbird, i upgraded from the stock single piston calpiers to the mustang dual piston calipers, and it made a world of difference....but my expy already has dual piston calipers. please post with your experience on this issue, preferably on the expeditions. tia.
-jon
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 249
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From: South Alabama
I changed the pads on my 04 because of the dust. I used ceramic pads from Auto Zone and I stop a little qiucker even with the stock rotors. All I was looking for was less dust and they cause very little. Before the change the wheels were black in 2 days after washing. Now the dust is almost non existent.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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Hope changing the pads to ceramics without changing the rotors works out. Ford did the same thing (for the same reason) during the 2004 model year (12/03 to be specific) and later found that the increased heat generated by the ceramics caused the original rotors to warp. They ended up upgrading the rotors later on (about 8/04 production date) and issued a TSB for the ones that warped (replaced for free).
One of the things I always wonder about (given the error Ford made) is how do you and I know that the rotors we buy aftermarket are OK for the ceramic pads we bought at the same time.
One of the things I always wonder about (given the error Ford made) is how do you and I know that the rotors we buy aftermarket are OK for the ceramic pads we bought at the same time.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 419
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From: Azzano Decimo, Italy
I upgraded my 03 Expy's pads to ceramic and while I was doing the brakes I upgraded the rotors to drillled and slotted all the way around. I still have not found stainless steel braided brake lines but as soon as I do I'm going to swap those out too. The ceramic pads do a great job of eliminating the brake dust and the rotors where a huge improvement over the stock rotors, I get better brake feel, less pedal travel and the Expy stops on a dime and gives you change.
Here are a few pics of the drilled and slotted rotors
Hope this helps in your quest for better stopping power.
Here are a few pics of the drilled and slotted rotors
Hope this helps in your quest for better stopping power.
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 355
Likes: 1
Drilled and slotted the the best, but keep in mind when they go bad they (most cases) cant be turned - they are trash.
Please tell me those hubs are powder coated and not painted... paint may heat up and become sticky - gluing your rotors to the rims. I did this on a Thunderbird show car and it took me an entire day to get the @#@%$ rims off - actually pulled off the chrome on the wire wheel.
Anyway your setup looks great!
Please tell me those hubs are powder coated and not painted... paint may heat up and become sticky - gluing your rotors to the rims. I did this on a Thunderbird show car and it took me an entire day to get the @#@%$ rims off - actually pulled off the chrome on the wire wheel.
Anyway your setup looks great!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 419
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From: Azzano Decimo, Italy
Sorry, but they are painted with hi-temp caliper paint; my buddy that had a powder coating set up has since PCSed. I did let the rotors cure for a week in my oven of a garage and after a week on the Expy I had the wheels rotated and balanced, there were no sticking problems or paint transfer when this was performed.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 24,724
Likes: 74
From: Blue Hill Township
Actually, drilled/slotted rotors are not all they are cracked up to be. Back when they still used asbestos in brake pads, outgassing used to be a problem so drilled/slotted gives you no benefit there. The drilled/slotted rotor also has less surface area which in turn gives your pads less bite and instead wears them faster. A good set of Brembo blank rotors are the best choice.
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Sit. Stay.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 18,308
Likes: 20
From: Washington State
However, slotteds can improve feel as it "fools" the pad into thinking that there is a new leading edge with each slot. Drilled are really a waste of money.
I think (to the original poster) that you should bleed all the old fluid out of your brake system. It is the most neglected fluid as far as changes go.
I always crack open the bleed valve and push the pistons back in to get that real bad (black!) fluid out that stays behind the pistons. You'll be surprised how much better your brakes will be once you have new fluid in there.
FWIW, ceramics aren't always better. When cold they actually increase stopping distance.
What kind of tires are you running? They have big affect on stopping distances.
I think (to the original poster) that you should bleed all the old fluid out of your brake system. It is the most neglected fluid as far as changes go.
I always crack open the bleed valve and push the pistons back in to get that real bad (black!) fluid out that stays behind the pistons. You'll be surprised how much better your brakes will be once you have new fluid in there.
FWIW, ceramics aren't always better. When cold they actually increase stopping distance.
What kind of tires are you running? They have big affect on stopping distances.
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