2000 4.0 brake pressure problems
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2000 4.0 brake pressure problems
i got a 2000 ranger 4.0 w/ 57k and i have have really soft brakes... i replaced the master cyl. and blead the whole system but still have the same problem. the brakes will grap if you romp on the pedal but when your rolling to a stop you dont get any pressure. so my next two guess's are either the booster... or the equilizer. im hoping some one would know what the deal is.. thanks
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From: Lynchburg, VA
Can you provide more details? Have you performed any maintenance on the brakes recently? Did something happen to trigger this problem? Is it "soft" just as you come to the end of the stop? Do you feel the ABS engaging (a rumble feel)? If so, a speed sensor could be bad.
Pat
Pat
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From: SW Va
Welcome to FTE.
Edit: Did you bench bleed the mastercylinder????
Were you plenty careful not to let air get into the ABS motor????
If not, & you let air get into the ABS system, then you may need vacuum on the system to get it out & may need the services of the Dealer, or a good brake shop, to get er done.
Edit: Did you bench bleed the mastercylinder????
Were you plenty careful not to let air get into the ABS motor????
If not, & you let air get into the ABS system, then you may need vacuum on the system to get it out & may need the services of the Dealer, or a good brake shop, to get er done.
Last edited by pawpaw; Jul 26, 2007 at 07:28 AM.
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From: Aurora
Originally Posted by pawpaw
Welcome to FTE.
Edit: Did you bench bleed the mastercylinder????
Were you plenty careful not to let air get into the ABS motor????
If not, & you let air get into the ABS system, then you may need vacuum on the system to get it out & may need the services of the Dealer, or a good brake shop, to get er done.
Edit: Did you bench bleed the mastercylinder????
Were you plenty careful not to let air get into the ABS motor????
If not, & you let air get into the ABS system, then you may need vacuum on the system to get it out & may need the services of the Dealer, or a good brake shop, to get er done.
Fred
On edit: You can't beat bench bleeding the master
Last edited by fflintstone; Jul 26, 2007 at 07:08 PM. Reason: forgot bench bleed
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i blead the master then the abs mod. then the rest of the lines.... i worked good that night then that morning it lost alittle pressure then the next day there was less pressure in the pedal, now its to the point i cant drive it again.... it doesnt seem that air would be the cause of this problem.... but on the other hand i dont know whats going on with it
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From: SW Va
Is the system loosing fluid, such that the brake master cylinder reservoir level is dropping????
If not, then I'd maybe suspect the replacement master cylinder. Was it new, reman, or rebuilt????
Did you have this same problem with the master cylinder you replaced????
If not, then I'd maybe suspect the replacement master cylinder. Was it new, reman, or rebuilt????
Did you have this same problem with the master cylinder you replaced????
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i just replaced the master its a reman from car quest... im not dripping any oil the resevoir isnt droping..... im stumped
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i just replaced the master its a reman from car quest... im not dripping any oil the resevoir isnt droping..... im stumped
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i researched the problem for a while i think i still have air traped in the abs mod but i dont know how to manualy bypass the the valves in the abs mod to open and clase to that i can bleed them out.... i tryed to on a steep slope but i got nothing. i did hear of an NGS tester that plugs into the diagnostics port and opens/closes the valves while you bleed that brakes but i dont know where to pick one up
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From: St. Peter
Rear brake shoes are important to adjust. I had to adjust them on my brothers ranger for the same problem as your describing. Also, in order to "properly" bleed the brakes your supposed to hook up a ford scan tool and open the valves. I from experience have had this happen, and have had good luck by pumping the pedal 3 times nice and hard, then really putting some force on it, and that seemd to work ok.
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ya i'll try adjusting the rear brakes. i took my to my buddys ford dealership we hooked it up to his laptop and ran the abs mod bleed exe. that worked good for a little while, just like everything else ive tryed...now im back to zero brake pressure but it does seem to be heat senitive the hotter the temp outside the less pressure i seem to have
Post Fiend
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From: Connecticut
Sounds maybe like you are purging air out of the system only to have it come right back shortly thereafter. That could point to a leak in the system, one which allows air to be drawn in but doesn't allow for brake fluid to leak out noticeably.
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From: St. Peter
With the pressures associated with brake lines, I think it would be hard to have a small, but not noticeable leak. One way to test it is to turn off the truck, pump the brakes until the brake booster runs out, then hold pressure on the pedal. Hold it for a min. If you have any kind of leak, even small, you should be able to tell.
Either way make sure you inspect your self adjuster cables. The self adjusting part is a joke, make sure your drums are snug too!
Either way make sure you inspect your self adjuster cables. The self adjusting part is a joke, make sure your drums are snug too!