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Need help stopping V10 noises

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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 02:35 PM
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Need help stopping V10 noises

My '00 Excursion with the V10, 145K miles, is making the worst racket, not exactly pinging, but more like a clack sound. According to the mechanic, it's caused by a lot of gunk in the engine. He wanted to clean it for $3000, but I figure we can run a lot of premium gas and/or Techron through it to help clean it for that amount of money.

Someone told me about a method for using Sea Foam to clean the engine internally. Has anyone done this before? Can anyone offer suggestions on how to clean this out without having to tear down the engine?
 
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 02:42 PM
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First off...when does the sound occur?
Can you create the sound at will?
Does it do it all the time?
What have you tried o far to "clean" the fuel system?
Why do you think that it is emanating from the fuel system; injectors etc. ?
What weight oil do you use?
What brand oil have you been using?

SAVE YOUR DOUGH right now. Wait and see if folks here can help you first.

Seafoam is fantastic stuff! I use it in my motorcycle and trucks on a fairly regular basis. It, however, is not a cure-all and certainly won't fix any mechanical issues.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Monsta
First off...when does the sound occur?
Nearly all the time. Occasionally it stops, but it's almost constant.
Originally Posted by Monsta
Can you create the sound at will?
The whole time the engine is running.
Originally Posted by Monsta
Does it do it all the time?
Virtually
Originally Posted by Monsta
What have you tried o far to "clean" the fuel system?
We haven't done anything, yet. We had one mechanic flush it with something and they ran a scope into the pan to see if there metal filings, but it was clean.
Originally Posted by Monsta
Why do you think that it is emanating from the fuel system; injectors etc. ?
We don't, it's in the valves. The latest mechanic (whom we trust more than the first one) had the head covers off and saw that the valves are crusty.
Originally Posted by Monsta
What weight oil do you use?
10W40, because we live in San Antonio.
Originally Posted by Monsta
What brand oil have you been using?
We used to use Penzoil or Quaker State, but now it's whatever the oil-change place has.

SAVE YOUR DOUGH right now. Wait and see if folks here can help you first.

Seafoam is fantastic stuff! I use it in my motorcycle and trucks on a fairly regular basis. It, however, is not a cure-all and certainly won't fix any mechanical issues.
So is there a way to clean crusty valves?

Thanks for all advice!
 
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 03:12 PM
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10W40W isn't the recommended weight seems a bit heavy for this engine. I use 0W20W and 5W20W like the book says. I'd guess lifters/valves are hoping for more oil on them. I could be wrong since I'm not there.

Techron additive works great for cleaning engines and I only run Chevron in my truck....and only 87 octane. I see no difference using 89 or 91 but a thinner wallet.......do about 3 tank fulls with the Techron. It worked on my neighbors truck he bought a couple of months ago, he did 2 tanks of that and then everyother.

Good Luck...
 
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by wfof250v10
10W40W isn't the recommended weight seems a bit heavy for this engine. I use 0W20W and 5W20W like the book says. I'd guess lifters/valves are hoping for more oil on them. I could be wrong since I'm not there.
...

Good Luck...
We use it because of how hot it gets here.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 03:27 PM
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Stop using 10w40!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You should definatly go down to at least 5w30. V10's dont like thick oil.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 03:37 PM
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For $3000 a pop, I'm getting into engine cleaning - it pays more than rebuilding, that's for sure

A few observations.

First, 10w40 is too thick. Period - no matter how hot it gets there, I wouldn't do it - I'd use a full-synthetic over dino-oil, that's for sure, but not much further than 5w20. Too many people have complained about upper engine noise like you have, and it turned out they were running 10w40, 15w40, or even 20w50.

If the valve springs and cam followers are crusty, it's because of the oil weight. It's too thick, stays in the heads too long, and gets overheated. 5W30 would run down quicker, and not have left that much crud on top - either that, or it was never changed. Either way, not good.

Is this a new (to you) vehicle? Or have you driven it the entire 145K miles? If so, has the noise steadily gotten worse, or did it just show up one day and hasn't changed since?

Sounds like a "lifter" (hydraulic lash adjuster) might have collapsed.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 03:37 PM
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Oh, and another thing to check, is the cam journals and bearings - with 10w40, I wonder if those are wiped out and you're hearing the cams slapping around?
 
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 04:39 PM
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We are the original owners of this vehicle. After we get this taken care of, we are certainly going to synth-oil. My husband's co-worker is recommending something called Royal Purple(?).

We have always gotten the oil changed at 7500 miles, but when we got it changed time before last, it was closer to 10K. I know, I know, bad bad FORD owners. Anyway, the noise started after that particular oil change and it hasn't changed. The first mechanic suggested putting a lubricant additive to the oil which is supposed to coat everything better than oil alone. I'm suspecting that might have been bad advice.

So should we go ahead with an oil change and put 5w20 ASAP? How do we check the cam journals and bearings? Would the inspection we just had done shown that?
 
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 04:46 PM
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Yep the 10W40 is too thick. The newer modular motors are machined to tight tolerances and need and are designed for the thin 5-20 oil. I would put on a larger oil cooler before I would run thicker oil.


There was a post awile back about an old school mechanic who used 20w50 in his v10 and seized her up and needed a new motor.

In order to check the bearing condition the engine, head or whatever needs to be taken apart and examined. Till you do that your better off just putting in a remanuf. V10.

I run 5-20 Mobil 1 and Fl-820S filter changed every 3,000 miles. You can go 5,000 miles but no more IMO.
 

Last edited by dkf; Jul 25, 2007 at 04:49 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 05:01 PM
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I live very close to San Antonio and there is NO WAY I would put 10w40 in my truck. for '00 Ford recomended 5w30 for yours. Now Ford has recomended 5w20, even for the motors that previously required 5w30.

These recomomendations have to do with the modern engine design. The old way of thinking, using a thicker oil for the heat, kills a lot of these motors.

I use the Motorcraft 5w20 semi-synthetic oil. Easy to find, highly rated and designed for Ford modular motors.

Any oil that meets the Ford 929 or 930 specs should be good for your motor.

I would reconsider going to full synthetic at your milage. You may develop leaks.

Use a Motorcraft, Wix, Napa Gold or Purolator Pure One oil filters. They have the proper anti drain back valves.

The best fuel cleaning additive I know of is BG 44K.

Good luck. Hopefully you haven't damaged any bearings.
 

Last edited by JKBrad; Jul 25, 2007 at 05:15 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JKBrad
I live very close to San Antonio and there is NO WAY I would put 10w40 in my truck. for '00 Ford recomended 10w30 for yours. Now Ford has recomended 5w20, even for the motors that previously required 5w30.

These recomomendations have to do with the modern engine design. The old way of thinking, using a thicker oil for the heat, kills a lot of these motors.

I use the Motorcraft 5w20 semi-synthetic oil. Easy to find, highly rated and designed for Ford modular motors.

Any oil that meets the Ford 929 or 930 specs should be good for your motor.

I would reconsider going to full synthetic at your milage. You may develop leaks.

Use a Motorcraft, Wix, Napa Gold or Purolator Pure One oil filters. They have the proper anti drain back valves.

The best fuel cleaning additive I know of is BG 44K.

Good luck. Hopefully you havent damaged any bearings.
Ford did not recommend 10w30 in any V10. The ealier 99 and 00' took 5-30.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 05:07 PM
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Ha! I cuaght my mistake and editied it, probably at the same time you were posting.

Good eye though. You're absolutely right.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by birkelbk
I'm suspecting that might have been bad advice.
Yes, bad idea. Snake oil.
So should we go ahead with an oil change and put 5w20 ASAP?
Yes, drain the thick stuff and go back with 5w20 ASAP. Hopefully the oil will get to the right places and end your troubles.

Let us know.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 05:31 PM
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I'd go get 12 quarts of Motorcraft 5W-30 or 20 (your choice; both work), 2 filters and a bottle of Sea Foam.

Change the oil yourself or make your hubby do it. Add the Sea Foam as directed ( http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm ). Put about 100 miles on it and change the oil again. My .03
 
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