ISSPRO Gauges
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Senior User
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ISSPRO Gauges
I am getting ready to purchase a Full-A-Piller 3 gauge set up. My only question is:
Is tapping the exhaust manifold easier?
or
Is tapping the turbo up-pipe easier?
I mean as far as access, drill points....... etc.
Is tapping the exhaust manifold easier?
or
Is tapping the turbo up-pipe easier?
I mean as far as access, drill points....... etc.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: The Dalles Oregon
well I think taping the downpipe is probably easier but thats not the best way, mounting it in the manifold is going to give you a much better reading, you just got to be extra careful when you drill it, using grease on your drill bit so as to not get any metal shavings in your manifold, and be sure to clean it out really well too, you dont want to toast your turbo... but it is a much better place for it
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Going into the up-pipe isn't going to make much of a difference compared to 3" closer in the manifold. It's not like putting it post-turbo in the down-pipe! The metal shavings won't be that big of deal either if you drill up from underneath. I used a freshly sharpened bit and some lube. In fact, I didn't even bother cleaning any out -- I just drilled, tapped, and installed the sensor. Any shavings will blow right out when you start it up. Here's what it looks like:
Works great!!
Joe
Works great!!
Joe
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
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From: 21791
Even if there are small metal shavings in the manifold, that's the first air that passes over the turbine wheel to start it up, so the turbine wheel will not be moving fast. It will cause no harm for just a few escapee metal shavings to pass through. Drill the manifold, i believe that since it's thicker, it will be less likely to leak.
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It's done!
The purchase has been made and it is on it's way. Thanks for the input guys, I have decided to tap the manifold. I'm sure I'll post more questions about this project in 5-6 buisness days.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Another vote for the manifold. I also recommend buying a new drill and tap for the job. Makes life a lot easier and it's not that expensive.
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Thank
I took the advice and bought a new drill and tap set with the gauges, hopefully this will be quick and painless. Any Idea how much time I am lookin at to install all three gauges with the pillar, (Pyro/Boost/Trans). I need to alot for idiot time too.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Williamston, MI
I did mine over a few days. Don't know total time. I was not in a hurry. Just wanted to make sure I did it right the first time. If you have to paint your pillar mount, may want to let it sit and dry a day so you don't scuff it up. I modified the guage mounting brackets to make them fit into the pillar mount. I've heard some folks just push them in but, I didn't want them to move. I also used the teflon tape on the trans temp right off the bat. Other than that, just following directions.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,760
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From: Hampton, Maryland.
I have heard some say they did it in two to three hours. It took me much longer(8-9hrs). I had trouble with the tap part and was also taking my time. I am not really good at wiring but the directions were very good and everything they mentioned as it relates to the wiring was true. The kit is very complete.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,294
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From: Neptune Beach, FL
TNT and I did ours in 4 hours... Easiest thing do is wire the gauges up first.. Don't bother with a ton of wires.. Just do a wire trace like below.. Excuse the horrible drawing, I'm at the office right now.. Also on the light wire, if you want the gauges to dim with your Instrument Cluster.. Just take the light switch box out, (forgot wire color), find the wire that adjust voltage when you move the dimmer up and down and tap that wire.. Ours are done that way and they work just fine.. Comes in handy as I don't keep my lights on full blast in the dash..
Also line up the A-Arm onto the factory Arm and then use a sharpie to make a dot.. Take A-Arm off and drill out a good size hole! The plugs on the senders are bulky and if you make it too small it'll be a punk to fit..
As well the A-Arm Pod, watch the bit size on the instructions. I think it said 5/16".. We had to use a bigger bit, we almost busted one of the push pins because the hole was still too small.. Autometer made a goof on their bit size for the push pins.
Also line up the A-Arm onto the factory Arm and then use a sharpie to make a dot.. Take A-Arm off and drill out a good size hole! The plugs on the senders are bulky and if you make it too small it'll be a punk to fit..
As well the A-Arm Pod, watch the bit size on the instructions. I think it said 5/16".. We had to use a bigger bit, we almost busted one of the push pins because the hole was still too small.. Autometer made a goof on their bit size for the push pins.
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Comes on Monday
Well the setup comes on Monday so I sure will keep all this in mind. Sounds to me like alot more than I thought it was going to be. I'm sure I will hit a question and hopefully you guys will be on the net, to help me out. I appreciate all the info.