Hello, has anyone put together a Hot 390, if so can you tell me what is some good parts to make good power. Thanks for any help.

Thanks Possum

 

Hi, try going to vintagemustangs.com I'm sure some of the mustang boys can help. I have only played with small blocks but there were alot of 390's in mustangs John Sugden
i967mustang(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

 

Thanks fatforty, I will have a look at that site.

Thanks Possum

 

Yes, 390s are very 'hot'able, I have done several and still have two of them. First, make sure you have a 390 and not a 352 or 360. If you have one of the smaller ones you will need to get a 390 crank and rods, the block will be okay. If you are starting with a truck engine you may need new pistons, many of the truck engines came with very low compression (less than 8 to 1). When doing the heads add hard seats and the larger 428CJ exhaust valves. An aluminum intake will breath better than the stocker and weigh 50# less. A dual plane is what all of us except drag racers need. A ford power parts 4267 is what I have, an edelbrock RPM performer is also good ( the regular performer is worthless).Headers are a nice addition even if they are a pain to install. A bigger cam will help, mine is 222 intake and 234 exhaust @050 duration, idle is alittle raspy but liveable. When getting your block ready you MUST fix the oiling problems built in from ford (sloppy machining when made). Let us know if you need help. DF

 

Where is the #'s on the block that will tell me if it is 352 or 390, or will I have to look at something other than the #'s.

Thanks Possum

 

Find the length of the stroke on the 390, take out a spark plug and put a dowel in the hole. Turn the engine until the dowel/piston starts to come back up. Mark the dowel, and measure it. This is the stroke of your engine. If it matches the stroke of a 390, then you have a 390.

My friend has a '74 Highboy with about a 400 HP 390. All he did was add headers, true dual 3 inch pipes, a mild cam and an intake/carb.

-Andrew

Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!

 

A good 390 will produce about 400HP and 430TQ. The low buck approach includes removing the hump in the roof of the exhaust ports, raise the CR to 9.5~10 to 1 Add headers, the cam should be dual pattern and the Edelbrock 7105 Perf RPM intake is a good choice.

If you have the budget, the Edelbrock RPM 6006 heads are a real good choice.

 

I've got a smoking 390 in my f-250 and I can tell you that dinosaur fan had it right. I went with a .30 bore, pistons, then an Edel rpm power package. While most people can agree what components need upgrading, usually they mix and match to their detriment. I'm very, very happy with my results with the Edelbrock matched components. I haven't heard anyone mention the ignition but if you want a hot engine you've gotta match it with some stout fire. I run a complete MSD electric ignition (pro-billet distributer, SS coil, 6-offroad ignition module, and 8.5 wires)which puts out the juice of a small nuclear plant. Have fun and don't forget a new timing chain!

 

Personally, I would run a set of timing gears, rather than a chain. More accurate, and if you can't have a blower, then why not make it sound like you do!?

-Andrew

Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!

 

I can't argue that gears are better for timing, as well as last longer, than a chain. But many people aren't aware that gears are harder on your engine: chains tend to compensate for vibration while gears simply transmit vibration. As was mentioned, they are noisy too, though I think they are a cool noisy. They have some high end chains that are very stout...I used the Edel. Just more info~

 

I'd REALLY suggest that you use the iron timing wheels as well as doing the oil passages and shimming up the oil pressure. Balance things also so it won't spread itself all over the neighborhood!

Michael
You can build and race your own car

 

If you want to build a hot 390 one of the first things you have to do is trash those log style exhaust manifolds. Was the chief engineer on valium when those got the E.O? There is no attempt to isolate the ports from each other. You can just picture the exhaust pulse travelling across the log, building pressure along the way just as another pulse is trying to get out from another direction (ok, maybe I have a vivid imagination). The point is, any hot rodding should begin with headers.

There are two styles of exhaust ports on an FE, a low exit and a high exit. The header flange should match the port height or else you will have restriction and eventually a gasket failure from the poor crush. Another consideration is the starter, some header manufactures don’t think it’s important and they shroud it. That causes the starter to overheat and fail prematurely. Replacing it sometimes requires removing the header, isn’t that sweet? Keep these in mind when shopping. I personally like Sandersons, Stan’s and FPA.

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/
http://stans-headers.com/
http://www.fordpowertrain.com/

Barry

 

The stock Ford electronic ignition will get the job done without any problems. I run a MSD 6A with just a single point electronic distributor. It's important to get the stock distributor recurved for quicker advancement. Mines set for full advance @ 2500rpm. Another trick to consider is your cooling system. The idea is to keep it relatively cool for optimal performance. I've installed a 160F thermostat with a electric fan, which gives me consistant 175-180 degree temps. The electric fan is a nice gain, and it is suprise how much you do gain. With the fan and stat, I dropped around .15 seconds off my ET's! A true double roller timing chain is all you need. You'll definitely get sick of the whining from the gears, and nobody needs to think you have a blower.

~'71 F-100 Sport Custom Reg.Cab
-390FE w/Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 780cfm Holley, ported & polished cylinder heads,
Crane Cam (0.548"I,0.580"E), 10.5:1 CR, Black Jack headers, true double roller timing chain, and high volume oil pump
-C6 transmision w/B&M 2600rpm stall
-9" Ford Rearend w/4.10 Richmond Gears & 31 spline axles
-215/65/r15 Yokohama's for the front & 28"x13.5"x15" Mickey Thompson ET Street slicks for the back
Best 1/4 mile time @ 3375ft altitude 14.69secs @ 92mph

 

>>
>~'71 F-100 Sport Custom Reg.Cab
>-390FE w/Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 780cfm
>Best 1/4 mile time @ 3375ft
>altitude 14.69secs @ 92mph

What does your truck weigh? My '70' F250 Camper special probably weighs about 250# more doesn't it?
BTW, where is the number stamped? My book says on the right cowl top but I don't have anything there on two of these F250's.
There is a tag on the drivers door but it is obviously a replacement door!
Michael

 

My truck weighs in at about 3900lbs with me in it, but only because I've knocked off about 200lbs from removing the rear trailer bumper, tailgate, primary fuel tank under box, and adding fiberglass fenders. The only number that would be given is the GVWR I would think. And that should be in the door jam.

~'71 F-100 Sport Custom Reg.Cab
-390FE w/Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 780cfm Holley, ported & polished cylinder heads,
Crane Cam (0.548"I,0.580"E), 10.5:1 CR, Black Jack headers, true double roller timing chain, and high volume oil pump
-C6 transmision w/B&M 2600rpm stall
-9" Ford Rearend w/4.10 Richmond Gears & 31 spline axles
-215/65/r15 Yokohama's for the front & 28"x13.5"x15" Mickey Thompson ET Street slicks for the back
Best 1/4 mile time @ 3375ft altitude 14.69secs @ 92mph