Wheres the modulator?
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Wheres the modulator?
On my 1990 Ranger auto 2wd, where is the modulator? Do you have any pics? Where does the vac line go to from the modulator? Also, they list for my truck a adjustable and nonadjustable one. Which should I buy? Thank you.
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From: SW Va
The vacuum modulator is located on the passenger side of the tranny.
It's behind a rectangular heat shield, in the side of the tranny casting, just aft of two larger tranny case, circular castings.
It's vacuum line goes to the intake manafold. If there is tranny fluid in the vacum line, suspect the modulators diaphragm is kaput.
Remove the modulator, take it to the parts store & replace it with a like part.
Let us know how it goes.
It's behind a rectangular heat shield, in the side of the tranny casting, just aft of two larger tranny case, circular castings.
It's vacuum line goes to the intake manafold. If there is tranny fluid in the vacum line, suspect the modulators diaphragm is kaput.
Remove the modulator, take it to the parts store & replace it with a like part.
Let us know how it goes.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Thanks for the info. I spent all day yesterday trying to get the cat off to get at the darn thing, so ill keep you guys posted. There isnt any other way to get at the modulator without removing the cats is there?
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
OK, thats a good find, fix & feedback.
Gotta love those "no cost" fixes!!!
Where on the intake side did you locate it's vacuum connection?????
Bet the engine runs better too. If you haven't already done so, it might be a good idea to pull the B- battery connection for 20 minutes, to erase the computers fuel trim it learned with the vacuum leak, so it can relearn new fuel trim settings with the vacuum leak fixed.
I use my 94 Taurus 3.8L's method, start it cold & let it idle down, then slowly shift into each gear, such that you feel it engage, including reverse, then let it fully warm up in "N" or "P". After it fully warms up, shift into all the gears again.
Then drive it, so it'll learn the remainder of it's settings.
There is a more extensive drive cycle listed in the "Tech Info" thread, if needed, but this one has worked ok for my 99 4.0L.
Gotta love those "no cost" fixes!!!
Where on the intake side did you locate it's vacuum connection?????
Bet the engine runs better too. If you haven't already done so, it might be a good idea to pull the B- battery connection for 20 minutes, to erase the computers fuel trim it learned with the vacuum leak, so it can relearn new fuel trim settings with the vacuum leak fixed.
I use my 94 Taurus 3.8L's method, start it cold & let it idle down, then slowly shift into each gear, such that you feel it engage, including reverse, then let it fully warm up in "N" or "P". After it fully warms up, shift into all the gears again.
Then drive it, so it'll learn the remainder of it's settings.
There is a more extensive drive cycle listed in the "Tech Info" thread, if needed, but this one has worked ok for my 99 4.0L.
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Post Fiend
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put a plastic wire tie on hose connection tight...will keep vac. lines from blowing off from backfires
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Thanks for all the help. Im gonna still replace the modulator and all vac lines because it will only shift when you let off the gas, so im figuring a vac leak and faulty modulator. Would it be okay for me to use conventional rubber line for all the connections since it has these odd plastic ones now? I am goiung to get the metal line for the trans, but since i already have tons of rubber vac line, i figure ill use it up on the other lines.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
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From: SW Va
Well I don't rightly know, about the vacuum lines manafold connection location, because we don't know which engine you have, but it sounds about right.
I wasn't questioning what you found & did, just asking for the record, so that others with similiar problems & reading this thread, would know where to look & what to check for, on their troubleshoot!!!!
We don't know the kind, or quality, of the vacuum line you have, like if it can stand up to the heat & ozone it'll be exposed to, but maybe it'll work & last ok.
Since your going to all the trouble to replace the vacuum lines, why not replace them with OEM type & know for sure.
I wasn't questioning what you found & did, just asking for the record, so that others with similiar problems & reading this thread, would know where to look & what to check for, on their troubleshoot!!!!
We don't know the kind, or quality, of the vacuum line you have, like if it can stand up to the heat & ozone it'll be exposed to, but maybe it'll work & last ok.
Since your going to all the trouble to replace the vacuum lines, why not replace them with OEM type & know for sure.
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