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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 10:08 PM
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Choke wire

I have been doing some searches and now have a general idea but I want to make certain before I do anything. I have a 1bbl on my 300 and it has an electric choke on it. The problem is, it isn't hooked up to anything. Can I just hook it to any 12v wire? I read a few say something about a stator wire off the alternator. I am not sure what wire that one is. I just don't want to hook it to the wrong wire and fry something. Pics would be great if anyone has them.

Thanks,
Andy
 
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 10:31 PM
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You want to use the stator wire. The reason is that it only has voltage on it when the engine is actually turning. If you hook it to anything else, you run the risk of the choke being on when the engine isn't turning, which can drain the battery, and open the choke prematurely. There should be a terminal on the back of your alternator marked "S."
 
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Old Jul 21, 2007 | 01:03 PM
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Trucks of that vintage had the choke wire wired up to the back of the alternator.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 12:00 AM
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You can also find it by looking for the wire on the voltage regulator marked S. It's easier to see and you won't have to remove the alternator to see it. That's how I wired mine on my 77.
 

Last edited by LxMan1; Jul 26, 2007 at 05:51 AM.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 04:39 AM
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You could also hook up the choke heater to an oil pressure switch like used in mid 1970's thru early 90's (pre fuel injection) and some after 1990's fuel injection. If you have a NAPA near by look at their illustrated ignition guide for oil pressure switches part numbers OP6616 thru OP6676 most are choke heaters or electric fuel pump cut off switches they preform the same. COMPARE YOUR PIPE THREAD SIZE AND CLEARANCES IN YOUR ENGINE COMPARTMENT. This is an old Holley carburetor trick for Minnesota winters. I hated manual chokes back then.
GOOD LUCK , Rich.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 06:57 AM
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Does that oil pressure switch in the catalog pass the voltage to another terminal when there is oil pressure in the engine? I see what you're saying, but the voltage seen at a sending unit is dropped down from 12 because of the bulb in the dash, at least on a Ford anyway. The factory sending unit grounds the bulb in the dash when the pressure drops. I see how this could work, but I think it'd call for more wiring than the other method.
 

Last edited by fmc400; Jul 26, 2007 at 07:21 AM.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 10:43 PM
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Yes it does add to the wiring. It also lets the stator circuit stay isolated so your dash light will not glow dim as having a charging system problem will do.Or if voltage regulator fails. There are a few ways to wire that switch. 2 terminal -12V feed then thru switch to ground (choke coil).EASIEST however you need to tee the oil gallery( or pull another plug if vehicle has one) and use your gauge sender/idiot light switch on one tap new switch on other.If you have a light ,use a 3 terminal and reverse the wires on 2 connection coils to 12v to coil / coil other connection to switch which switches ground. There are other ways in which you can wire 12V to switch but look at the back of book for schematics because you could short out if you blindly hook up. I hope i'm not too confusing as it would be alot clearer to show you in a book. This is by no means my invention as it was OEM on GM , AMC , DODGE fo many years.
Let me know if you want more help as I have that illustrated guide here in the shop. C-ya , Rich.
 
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