Really confused now...
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Really confused now...
I've been reading for a long time about the gas gauge issues..I have a 1988 f250 4X4 dual tank. first off my temp gauge doesnt work but im betting thats a bad sender..hopefully.. my gas gauge however is always on E. If im reading correct when i ground the yellow/white wire it will peg at E, but since im already there that doesnt help me much. Here is the confusing part, when my key is off and i have either the headlights or the 4 ways on the gas gauge will slowly climb with the headlights and gradually bumps up with every 4way flash..either way the gauge will read to full..As soon as i turn my key at all the gauge goes back to E.What the heck is going on here. I also ran out of gas the other day and i know my rear tank is full but it wouldnt switch and the gauge wont read the rear tank either. I've recrimped and cleaned all the grounds i could find and that didnt help any. thanks for any help everyone.
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From: Baltimore
The schematic is for a gas engine.
Full tank would = 160 ohms
Empty tank would = 15 ohms
At the selector switch Dark Blue/Yellow wire is from the front tank sender.
At the selector switch Yellow/Light Blue wire is from the rear tank sender.
Last edited by F150xlt; Jul 20, 2007 at 07:10 PM.
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So I got my readings and it was 110 ohms on the rear and 96 on the front... by having that resistence does that mean my senders are good and my cluster is bad? Or does that just mean i have gas?thanks..im heading to the junkyard in a bit cause my tank has a leak..just wondering if i need a cluster too.
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Sounds like your Tanks are about half full.
I see no correlation between the signal lamps and the fuel gauge.
Make sure you have a steady 12 Volts coming from fuse #15 (10A) feeding the fuel gauges and this voltage does not go up and down with the flashers.
I see no correlation between the signal lamps and the fuel gauge.
Make sure you have a steady 12 Volts coming from fuse #15 (10A) feeding the fuel gauges and this voltage does not go up and down with the flashers.
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I put my new(ish) tank in today.I put my old pump in the new tank and hooked everything back up, now my gauge pegs to full and never moves...thats means i have an open right? i just dont see what has changed, besides the tank. back to square one i guess. any ideas why?thanks
Posting Guru
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From: Baltimore
When you had the sender out you should have used an ohm meter and measured the sender resistance while manually moving the float arm up and down.
Usually some of the resistive material on the sender wears away creating an open. Dependng on where the open is on the resistive material, the sender will work and then won't depending on the fuel level.
Also if the sender measures good with an ohm meter but always shows empty when installed, the float could have a pin hole which fills the float with gas.
Usually some of the resistive material on the sender wears away creating an open. Dependng on where the open is on the resistive material, the sender will work and then won't depending on the fuel level.
Also if the sender measures good with an ohm meter but always shows empty when installed, the float could have a pin hole which fills the float with gas.
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I can ohm at my switch and its about correct(guessing on how much is really in there).If there was a hole in the float why am i peeged on full wouldn't i be pegged on E? My gauge doesnt periodically work either its always on full.
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From: Easton,Ks
Pegged on full usually means an open wire, bad sender or no ground.
Pegged on "E" usually means a shorted wire to ground.
Note pegged on full or on "E" is a different reading the indicating full or "E".
Indicating “E” is a sunken float.
Pegged on "E" usually means a shorted wire to ground.
Note pegged on full or on "E" is a different reading the indicating full or "E".
Indicating “E” is a sunken float.