I hope this is the right place to post this.
I am having trouble wiring up my door popper kit. It came with a wiring diagram, but it really it makes no sense whatsoever. The diagram is pretty much thrown in there for a sales point I think. The instalation is for 2 doors, 1 passanger and 1 drivers side on a 2002 F-150 XL, V6 4.2 liter. The kit came with 3 relays which I reall have no Idea where they go, a brain, which I believe is the reciver for the remote, and all the necessary hardware. The instructions were great for the hardware instalation, but this electrical diagram is really making no sense to me at all. Any info regaurding this little issue is greatly appreaciated. Thanks in advance guys.

 

Well,I would be glad to help you out,but I would need to see the schematic.It is alot less complicated then it looks to wire up door poppers (as you call them)If you can figure a way to post the schematic,I can probably tell you what goes where.I dont know if you can just post the schematic here,or if you would have to put it on photobucket and then post a link to it here.If not,just pm me and I will give you my e-mail add,and you can e-mail it to me.

 

Do you already have a factory remote, and want to use it? Or do you want to use the aftermarket remote? I think it would be easy for the factory remote to work the door poppers, but it's going to be a little bit more involved to use the aftermarket remote, and also incorporate the Ford buttons on the inside of the door.

 

Its is the remote that came with the kit. The truck is an XL, it has manual everything, no power locks, windows or any of those bells and whistles. Possibly this is where I am running into the confusion is because there is not an existing power source? I am not too sure, but any insight that you can offer is greatly appreaciated. Thanks for taking the time to check out the post!

 

Triton, the kit is an Auto Loc (protocal) shaved door handel kit. Here is a link to the diagram. http://files.thehoffmangroup.com/ins...VPRO_KL800.pdf
This is exactly what came with the kit.

 

You don't have factory power locks. That's good, a lot less complicated.

I looked at the online instructions. What is it you don't understand exactly? I know electrical can be very intimidating to beginners, especially diagrams, but we can lead you through it.

You said you have the door actuators mounted? Do you have the brain box mounted? That's what I would do first is mount everything, even the relays. I would glue them to a homemade strip with the terminals sticking up, and then screw the strip to someplace near the brain box.

Once you get the components all mounted, then it's just a point to point hook up following the diagram between the poppers, the relays, and the brain box.

After that, I see 3 power wires. Find your fuse box, and go to the store and buy some "fuse taps" to fit your fuses.

I see one wire that says "2a fuse red". Find a spot in the fuse box that has power all the time, such as a cigarette lighter fuse, or a domelight fuse. Take the fuse out, put the fuse tap around the fuse, and stick it back in. The get a slip on crimp connector, and connect that wire to the brain box.

Find another wire in the fuse box that is hot with the key on only. This might be something like a radio fuse. Do the same fuse tap deal, and run this over to the safety relay "switched ignition power".

You have two more wires, the "12v" wires going to each relay. This is going to be another hot all the time wire. This wire is going to power the poppers when they activate. If you are hooking the brain box wire to the cigarette lighter fuse, then I would also hook the 12v relay wires to the same spot. So you will have 3 wires going to the same cigarette lighter fuse, one for the brain box and 2 for the relays.

 

Thanks frankiln. I have not installed the brain box, but plan on installing it near the drivers side kick pandel, or under the stearing colum, depending on which location works better. The part thats getting me hung up, is where to put the relays, what they all do, and where to connect them, I found a internet resource that does a decent job of answering a couple of those questions. You may have heard of it? DIY.com, they explain the process of mounting them and whatnot.
So tell me, is the third relay for the "Valet" switch that is installed on the outside of the truck? It would make sence after all, you have 1 relay for each door, and one for the emergency(Valet" switch) button, is this correct? I am still a little hazy on the whole fuse tap and whatnot but I think once I sit down with it and start running through it, things will start to become apparent. Your last post really cleared som things up! Thanks, I am planning on wiring it all up this weekend and will totally keep you all posted ion the progress!
p.s.
What exactly is a fuse tap?

 

1]Scan it into your computer.

2] Upload it to photobucket

3] Leave the size larger than 640 X 480 so it can be read easier.

4] Copy the 3rd line under the pix in PhotoBucket

5] Paste it on the forum page here.

It will show right on the forum page then.

 

Warthog, here is the PDF link.
http://files.thehoffmangroup.com/ins...VPRO_KL800.pdf

 

Well,it looks like Franklin has you pretty much covered on the hows,and wheres,but I see you are asking about the relays and what they do.Real easy explination.The (brain box) works on very low amperage meaning that everything in it works on very low current.The door lock actuators on the other hand take a higher current than what the brain can handle.So,they add a relay.The brain can turn the relay on with very low amperage(current) and the secondary connections on the relay can carry higher current.That is why you are adding a battery feed line to the relay.The only thing I would do different from what Franklin has told you is,I would not add my wiring to the fuse box.I would get an inline fuse from the auto parts store,mount it directly to the battery and wire my add ons off of it.That way,I am isolating it from any wiring that is existing,and I would not have to worry about my doors not opening if my cigarette lighter shorted out internally.

 

That schematic is very simple and straight forward. Everything you need to know is right there in front of you.

As King Triton explained about the reason for the relay's. They have the standard Boush marking's on them. You may need a magnifying glass to read the numbers beside the male spade terminal's. Look at them close.

 

Great insite King Triton, duely noted, I cannot wait to take a crack at this over the weekend. I also like your idea for an inline fuse!

 

An inline fuse to the battery is fine for the hot all the time power. But it's a wire that you will have to run from the engine compartment, through the firewall. And you will still have to get into the fuse box to find a key-on power source. But it doesn't really matter, it's personal preference, and how you want it to look.

If you are planning on adding much more electrical, then you might as well go ahead and mount an aux fuse box at the battery. This will give you several places to hook more stuff.