Alternator...
Thanks for the replys, Bruce
You have to change both batteries as a pair on these diesels.
If you don't the weaker battery will kill the other battery too.
If you don't know this information you do now or you may learn the hard way by experience.
If your ford dealer doesn't know either go some where else.
The system is definately a 12 volt system.
I went to Ford and they told me that if a battery tests good it goes back in the vehicle. Ford Co. will not pay the dealer for it under warrantee if tested good. If the customer was paying I bet they would replace both.
Manager was not there so they told me to talk to him Monday. Since I bought it there he may cut me some slack. I am willing to pay 1/2. If not I will go to the battery warehouse and have them put them in cheaper.
THanks for all your replies, Bruce
I took some notes from another forum and presented it to the service manager at the dealership. He said they never replace a battery that is not bad. He also said that they never had any complaints. I said "I'm here!" I also said that maybe the other s may have gone somewhere else to get it fixed right.
He told me that if both batteries were bad he would replace the newer one free and no labor charge. He would charge me cost on the older battery and no labor charge. And they would check the charging system.
I dropped it off Tuesday am and picked it up in the evening all done with 2 new batteries, charging system checked, additive in the coolant system, and PA inspection. Bill was for $140. I am a happy camper. Hats off to my Ford dealer.
Thanks to all that replyed to this question. A lot of great information can be had from these forums.
Bruce
I took some notes from another forum and presented it to the service manager at the dealership. He said they never replace a battery that is not bad. He also said that they never had any complaints. I said "I'm here!" I also said that maybe the other s may have gone somewhere else to get it fixed right.
He told me that if both batteries were bad he would replace the newer one free and no labor charge. He would charge me cost on the older battery and no labor charge. And they would check the charging system.
I dropped it off Tuesday am and picked it up in the evening all done with 2 new batteries, charging system checked, additive in the coolant system, and PA inspection. Bill was for $140. I am a happy camper. Hats off to my Ford dealer.
Thanks to all that replyed to this question. A lot of great information can be had from these forums.
Bruce
Is this dealer an idiot????
The 6.0L motor does use SCA addtives like the 7.3L motor does and may even do it harm!!! I would have them flush several times and re-install fresh Ford Premium Gold Long-Life coolant (factory fill) and leave it alone!!!
Please advise why they messed with your coolant when the "issue" was batteries and alternator!!!
I will never have anyone flush out my coolant system. My friend with a 2000 F-150 5.4 gasser had his done in the spring. He has had 3 heater cores and 1 radiator replaced in 3 months. BAAAAAAD!
I will never have anyone flush out my coolant system. My friend with a 2000 F-150 5.4 gasser had his done in the spring. He has had 3 heater cores and 1 radiator replaced in 3 months. BAAAAAAD!
Understand about cooling system flushes... are stating you never flush or will not, or just will not let the dealer do it?
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I never flushed out any cooling systems on any of my vehicles except a 1969 ford wagon with 390 motor and 98,000 miles on it. I was pulling a camper and the idiot light came on every time I put the airconditioner on. I thought it might be clogged up. But found out the radiator was only a 2 row light duty one. I put a 3 row in the 73 wagon I bought later. Ran fine.
Ford and gm all ahd electrolises problems up to 2002. My daughter had her 2002 Explorer heater core replaced. I have heard of others having them replaced. I will not take a chance and cough out $1200. to $1400. for them to fix a problem that was theirs in the first place.
Bruce
It just does not make sense that the Pick-ups and Excursions with a 6.0L motor do not need any additives... but you claim the vans do???
Check you manual, ask a different dealer... that's all I am recommending.
By the way, just draining and refilling one's system 4 times then installing the proper 50/50% mix of coolant and distilled water will not cause a problem with the system. It is "flush machines"... but I assume they "forward flush and not back-flush (wouldn't work).... sounds like you or your fiend had a lot of accumulated junk in the system and when changed.... it leaked or fouled up!!!!!!
Oh well.... do what you want... but I would still check with a different dealer about additives!!!!
I will check my book now. Just to make sure.
Thanks
The 6.0L diesel supplement 2nd printing for the 2004 E-350.
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WO4ECO/~MUS~LEN/33/0460l6d2e.pdf
Page 44 says
Add Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant
(yellow-colored), VC-7–A (U.S., except CA and OR), VC-7–B
(CA and OR only), meeting Ford Specification
WSS-M97B51–A1
Page 45 says
Do not add extra inhibitors or additives to the coolant. These
can be harmful and compromise the corrosion protection of the engine
coolant.
Thanks,
Bruce
Thanks,
Bruce
Here is what I would do for a great flush....
1) Read your manual and find the total capacity for your system. Divide by 1/2 and this is how many gallons (quarts) of coolant you need for a 50/50 concentration.
2) Buy 15 gallons of distilled water at local grocery store (about .89/gallon).
1) Loosen your lower radiator hose and drain.
2) Refill degas bottle with distilled water... idle, then drive until temp guage comes up to temp.
3) Loosen lower radiator hose and drain... repeat steps 1 - 3 four times (maybe 5)... which will mean you have a good clean 100% fill of distilled only water in your system.
4) Loosen and drain your lower radiator hose one last time and let it drain 100%.
5) Now add straight premium gold Ford coolant to your degas bottle to equal the total amount of coolant to give you a 50/50% concentration.
6) Start motor if need be and keep adding coolant until you reach the amount of coolant to equal 50/50.
7) Top off system with remaining distilled water and you have a perfect 50/50 fill.
8) Drive your van until it warms up and allow to cool and keep adding only distilled water to the degas bottle to get to the MIN level on the tank. Air bubbles will work themselves out and you will want to watch it for 1 or 2 days to make sure!!!
You now have a perfect flush with only distilled water and the proper coolant. Distilled water does not have the minerals that will clog up your system or heater core. To flush with tap water is not good as you will mix tap water with the distilled.... and this is still bad!!!
This is why I do my own cooling system flushes instead of the dealer... as I use distilled water and they do not!!!
The manual states that the factory fill is good for 100,000 miles and thereafter to flsuh it every 50,000 miles (becuase tap water usually gets used).
I personally flush every 50,000 - 60,000 miles as I am more comfortable knowing I am well ahead of schedule and it only costs me about $60.00 to do it (coolant from dealer and distilled water at grocery store).
Good luck and enjoy knowing you did it right!!!
Jeff




