how hard are they to change?? most of you know that i am somewhat mechanically inclined (my dad was always obsessed with cars and trucks and pretty much built his own, kinda got passed down to me, i've worked on quad engines/snowmobile engines inside and out...) i know that it's roughly a 9 hour job to take out and put back in injectors, but i want to take mine out tomorrow or thursday (no work those 2 days) and then send them in so that i can get stage 2's without the core charge!!! so... how difficult is it?? i'm guessing the first step is taking off that plastic cover thingy lol... what next? head i'm guessing, if anyone knows of any step by step instructions or a basic guideline that would be very helpful... this is the first time i've worked on an actual diesel engine, not just stuff like exhaust/intake/misc stuff.... thanks

 

glass, it really is easy. Start with the basics.

Entire intake off.
Heat shield off a/c box.
Vacuum can off. (2 bolts on the side of the a/c box. You need this off for clearance)
Valve covers off. (I found this to be the hardest part of the whole thing.)
Unhook and remove VC gaskets. (Reusable)
Remove UVC harness' to the injectors and glow plugs.
With an Allen wrench, remove the oil spouts off the injectors. (they break easy)
Remove lower injector hold down bolt.
Slide injector hold down up over the upper bolt.
Pry up on the hold down and the injector should pop out. (sometimes it take a pretty good pry, they ARE in there) watch your knuckles.

Start at the back of the engine, one per side. Remove oil and fuel from those cyclinder. and this will get most of it so it won't go in other cyclinders. There will be some, but not alot. For this, I used a Mity Vac hand vacuum pump, worked great.

Once you are to this point, you will have the rest figured out. Also, check beans for good instructions on the whole process. Let me know if you have any more questions, I'll tell ya everything I can remember.

 

wow thanks, i do have one question... by a/c box i'm assuming you don't mean a/c compressor?? what exactly is it yuo're talking about? my truck is like 50-60 yards away from me right now and i'm too drained to get up and look lol

 

i left all of that on mine when i did my o-rings, if you have a stubby ratchet wrench those pesky bolts come out very easy on the pass side, and if you dont have a mity vac just pop the glow plugs out and crank it over.
a 3 year old could put injectors in.............. if 3 year olds had patience.
nothin to be afraid of here, its all easy work just time consuming to keep things neat and in order, if your goin to have her apart for a couple days you may as well replace the uvc harness while your in there, odds are they're hard anyway

 

haha well i'm loaded with patience so that's not a problem.. but uhhh how easy are injectors to accidently break? lol i have a problem with breaking stuff

 

I guess it's the blower motor housing. The big box on the passenger side firewall that gets in everythings way. Holds the heater core etc.

And on the re-install, I used a rubber dead blow hammer to seat the injectors with a few TAPS, not blows!!!! TAPS, on top of the solinoid. Then use a straight edge across the top of them to make sure they are all seated correctly. Oh yeah, don't forget when you pull the injectors to make sure the copper washer on the nozzle comes out with it. You definately don't want them to be in there when you install the new.

Once the new injectors are in, pull all the glow plugs, put the VC's back on with one or two bolts just to hold them in place and turn it over to evac any fluid left in the cyclinders. That should do it. Any other questions, let me know!

 

The injectors themselves are very durable. The solinoid on top, not so much. I had to send fishmandotcom a solinoid because his pry bar slipped. Just go slow and you will have no problems.

 

alright thanks, i'll be visiting a college tomorrow and then afterwards i'm gonna start ripping apart these injectors and then send em in!!!! i'm excited haha

 

hmm, dont have enough fingers and toes to count the injectors i've replaced and i've never broken one, once the covers are off its pretty obvious how they come out, the drain has the allen head on it as rubberduck said, take the screw out and the drain falls off, take the lowr 8mm i think off and the retaining clamp will slide up adn stick a short pry bar in between the head and that clip, it doesnt take much to pop them out. There is a drain on the back of each head to drain the oil out but its an ignorant sob to get out, 3\4 adapter on a 1\2 breaker bar and hang on it, more power to you if you can break it loose, but go with ducks plan of suckin it out, much easier on the knuckles, to install the new ones, use assembly lube generously on the o-rings and press them into seat by hand, they'll pop that last little bit and then reverse your procedure to install, i like to remove the glow plugs and crank for a bit before i button it up just to blow anything out of the piston chambers for safety's sake, dont forget to drain the fuel housing before you start too, make life easier as well

 

good lord you guys type fast

 

i'm 100% against your dead blow hammer, even for a tap, if you use the assembly lube they will slide in by hand with light pressure, the taps could lead to either a busted solonoid or a cut o-ring

 

haha 120 words per minute baby!

 

maybe it's 100... idk haha

 

I'm with you c00n, on the dead blow. But I couldn't get them in by hand, or I wasn't happy with the way they felt. That rubber hammer was the most gentle thing I could think of. Plus, I had an extra set of solinoids. Very good point brother, you are totally right. If you can get them in by hand, by all means do so. And good point about the lube, I just dunked mine in oil before installing them. Another good call.

 

what about a lead hammer?? my grandpa makes them and i swear by them!! they haven't dented anything i've hit them with yet!!