Steering column removal
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Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 907
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City, Mo
Steering column removal
Body off project in progress. I have a 1950 F-1. So far I have removed the rear fenders and the bed. Now all bolts for the body and front end have been remove. Parking brake cable removed. The remaining item is the steering column. I removed the horn and the nut. I have tried pressure from the bottom with a mallet, no luck. I didn't see any tab or pin holding the wheel on. No way to attach my wheel puller. Someone HELP before I fire up the grinder and cut the column. I would like to salvage the front and rear suspensions and column for someone who may need them after I replace mine. Have a great day. Thanks,chuck
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,887
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
Most the of the time there are two 5/16" fine thread holes on either side of the spined shaft inside the wheel. I have had trucks that didn't have the holes and I had to drill and tap the holes. Other times the gunk is so hard packed in the holes you can't see them and you have to dig around to find them. Either way I always rethread the nut on until it even with the top edge of the the shaft to protect the threads and then I use a large headed bolt that fits inside the shaft for the wheel puller to push against. Some times the mallet from behind works but I prefer using a wheel puller.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 907
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From: Kansas City, Mo
Steering column
This appears to be the original steering system. There are no holes to attach puller bolts. There is just a flat area that looks like a washer around the threaded shaft. Flat area will not come out. I dug down beside washer looking area, no botton in sight, must be part of wheel. This seems to be the best way to remove column unless the only way is to remove the steering box and pull it through the floor board. Help, more suggestions please. thanks,chuck
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Bob's got it. The splines are the tightest on the whole vehicle. Try to avoid hammering because if is bad for the steering box, you are essentially hammering the worm against the sector when you bang on the wheel.
An alternate way if you have a bearing splitter (for rear axle bearings that are pressed on, it's two half-circles that bolt together -- see below) is to put that behind the wheel and then use the shaft to press against as Bob described. It is more likely to ruin the wheel, but a lot of them aren't pretty anymore anyway.
An alternate way if you have a bearing splitter (for rear axle bearings that are pressed on, it's two half-circles that bolt together -- see below) is to put that behind the wheel and then use the shaft to press against as Bob described. It is more likely to ruin the wheel, but a lot of them aren't pretty anymore anyway.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
The way we used to remove them: Unthread the nut until it is flush with the top of the shaft. Sit in the driver's seat, put your knees behind the wheel near the rim. Brace your feet against something solid so you can put a good pressure behind the wheel. Hit the center of the shaft with a big hammer while pushing. One or two whacks would usually pop them loose.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 2
From: Seattle WA.
I had a puller and the threaded holes in the wheel I even left the nut on a few threads to protect the shaft. But the steering wheel was rusted so bad onto the splines it smashed the threads some. I tried several times to rethread it with a 7/16" fine thread die, but was never able to get the nut to go on. I have been driving it for the last 3 years with the threading die in place of the nut. I saw a two piece threading die that you could put on the threads and back it off to rethread the part. It was used for the bolt threads on the rear axle shaft threads that hold the brake drums on, it had a bunch of different size thread options on it. I sure wish I could find another but I really need to convert to Toyota box anyhow.
Last edited by 51ford fan; Jul 16, 2007 at 01:43 AM.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Yeah, my 48 F3 didn't have any holes for a puller either but the steering wheel wasn't in very good shape to begin with so I kept pounding with a 5 lb sledge until it came off in pieces. Sometimes that's all you can do. Good luck with it... 
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Originally Posted by 49fordpickumup
Body off project in progress. I have a 1950 F-1. So far I have removed the rear fenders and the bed. Now all bolts for the body and front end have been remove. Parking brake cable removed. The remaining item is the steering column. I removed the horn and the nut. I have tried pressure from the bottom with a mallet, no luck. I didn't see any tab or pin holding the wheel on. No way to attach my wheel puller. Someone HELP before I fire up the grinder and cut the column. I would like to salvage the front and rear suspensions and column for someone who may need them after I replace mine. Have a great day. Thanks,chuck
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,355
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From: I live in Mustang, OK
Hi Chuck
I had the same problem on my 50f1 I finally took out the whole thing like AX said. I'm not going to use it anyway. Lots easier than fighting with it for hours. Makes getting the cab off a lot easier to. ............RUSTY
I had the same problem on my 50f1 I finally took out the whole thing like AX said. I'm not going to use it anyway. Lots easier than fighting with it for hours. Makes getting the cab off a lot easier to. ............RUSTY
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 834
Likes: 0
From: South East Florida
thanks for helping me decide how -I'm- gonna do it. I will just go ahead and loosen the steering box (soon as I buy a socket big enough) and pull the whole thing from inside the cab. Wasn't sure it could be done but now I know. Thanks again
Anyone want a steering column with wheel? lol
Anyone want a steering column with wheel? lol
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 907
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City, Mo
Steering wheel
Thanks to everyone for the options available. I gripped the steering and tilted it up/down and the wheel spot welds gave way. The only thing remaining is the inner steel ring. Thanks for pitman arm information also. I hope to sandblast the frame in the next couple weeks. Thanks again to all. Have a great day,chuck
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
The Ford pitman arm was easy to get off, the Toyota that came on the steering box I bought was put on by Godzilla! I broke a bench vise trying to take the nut off with a 36" pipe wrench, and heated it as much as I dared risking the seals. I finally split the nut and pitman arm with a cutoff wheel and cold chisel to get them off!