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Bronco II Ford Bronco II

Electric Lock Issues...

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Old Jul 14, 2007 | 11:36 PM
  #1  
1986BII's Avatar
1986BII
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Unhappy Electric Lock Issues...

Hi. I have a 1986 Bronco II Eddie Bauer edition, automatic 2.9l V-6 with 85000 miles. I've had it for about 4 months, after it sat for 2 years in a junkyard because the kid that had it before me didn't pay his tow bill, and the wrecker let me have it for what was owed on the bill; $600. So far, only needed to do minor repair and a new tranny. However, something shorted in my electrical and fried a fusible link. Fixed all that, and now all my electrical is working again. The jolt was over 40 amps but less then 100. Anyway, after the short happened my electric locks worked for a few days, then stopped working. (They worked for awhile AFTER the shortage, but not now...) They're completely dead, on both driver and passenger side. Don't make any noise or anything when you push one of the buttons. Any ideas as to what the problem may be? Thanks
 
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 01:40 AM
  #2  
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powrstrkr
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Rio Rancho NM
Probably bad solenoids. They get stuck and then can draw down enough juice to blow a fuse.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 05:44 AM
  #3  
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kernel-panic
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Could either be the door lock solenoids or the door lock switches. I would check the switches out first.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 11:04 AM
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rebocardo
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From: Atlanta GA
The best way to trace the problem is to remove the harness. The power goes to the driver's side door lock, then a harness comes out the driver's firewall (may come through the driver's fender - been six+ years since I have done one and mine is manual windows), loops around the front near the radiator, then behind the battery.

This is where the connector is for the pass. side door lock. A combination of road salt, weather, and battery acid can eat through both the connector and wires and require replacement of bad wire.

Remove the harness (driver to pass. side) and do an OHM test. Sometimes will be worn from rad. support contact.

Then on the short piece going directly to the pass. door, use FUSED 15 amp leads (positive AND negative), hook to battery first (no sparks at battery), and test the pass. door lock.
 
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