Well my basking in the glow of fixing my running rough problems didn't last long. My 95 AWD Aero is running GREAT!!! but I'm still getting codes. I need help in figuring them out. I replaced the front O2 sensor, cleaned the MAF and the IAC, replaced the plugs and wires. The following codes were present before this and are still coming up.

Test 2
1-7-2 = Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen (HEGO) is lean

Test 3
1-1-6 = Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor - signal voltage is higher than expected.
5-3-8 = insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test
5-3-6 = Brake On/Off (BOO) switch circuit failure.

Test 4
Same
1-7-2
5-3-8

Thanks ahead of time for any advice you can give me and the Aero community on this.

Reid
Spokane WA

 

You have to erase them or start & stop it 47 times. OR

To erase it without an analyzer,
1) turn key On Engine Off pull Positive lead off battery terminal then

2) turn the key to off position. remove Neg Connector

3) Take a few minutes & clean your terminal & connector then
replace your Batt cables with the + Pos 1st then -Neg 2nd.

4) Start your Aero & all your ancillary D codes, as well as
your radio settings & clock time will be gone.

5) Re Set your radio & Clock and you're good to go.

You will have Erased all codes from the ECC's RAM, cleaned
your Battery Terminals & Reset your radio & Clock.

Drive On & Happy Motoring

FBp

 

What is the time limit for me to do the 47 start/stops in?

I head that all I had to do was remove the negative terminal for 5 minutes and that erased the memory....guess not. Guess I'm going to make the wife mad one more time for erasing her radio stations and the clock....oh well

Thanks
Reid

 

You May, But removing Neg 1st usually leaves system initialized or partially ini' & it can revert back to undeleted RAM Info, but pulling the posi dumps the ram on the spot and it's empty~clean next time it powers up. . . .

Hey I could be wrong, but it's how FoMoCo Marketing Service school taught me back in the day, either that or use an erase/delete option on your diagnostic machine, but I suspect you're like me now & don't have one or access to one anymore, so I do it the way I said.

Tell her to look at it in the positive Ried, y'all saved a bunch of $$$$$$$$$$$$ and the thing runs great for "mini donneros", and she will get good at setting her creature comforts too. . . . What a Deal huh?

Many Wives can't do any more that turn things on & off. I had a woman complain that the bright lites were killing her wrist?????? . . . . Okay, show me. So she starts holding the switch in the "flash" position. I don't mean flashing it, I mean holding it back against the flash realy. I haad already R&R'd a relay in her van, now I knew why.

I showed her if she pushes it forward it stays there by itself, only 1 set of filaments light up, and the relay doesn't burn down Hhmmn. They way she was holding the lever would have killed anybody's wrist, Boy was she greateful. . . .

FBp

 

Thanks Ford Boy Pete for the advise. Yes, I do have the code reader. It is one I bought years ago for my Ranger and it works for the Aero. It's an analog one with beeps and a red light...not a fancy digital one. I will unplug the ole girl (the van not my wife) when I get home and try it again.

Thanks
Reid

 

right from the horse's mouth
Ford Engr. Service manual Aero
do this one after servicing engine or sensors
How to Clear Keep Alive Memory (KAM)

The PCM stores information about vehicle operating conditions and uses this information to compensate for component tolerances. When an emission related component is replaced, Keep Alive Memory (KAM) should be cleared to erase the information stored by the PCM from the original component.

To clear KAM: Disconnect the negative side of the battery for a minimum of five minutes.

After KAM has been cleared, the vehicle may exhibit certain driveability concerns. It will be necessary to drive the vehicle 10 miles or more to allow the processor to relearn values for optimum driveability and performance. (Distance is dependent on the vehicle application.)


this also clears all codes.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
to clear just the codes i.e. continuous memory
How to Clear the Continuous Memory

NOTE:
Do not disconnect battery to clear Continuous Memory. This will erase the Keep Alive Memory (KAM) information which may cause a driveability concern.

1. Run the Key On Engine Off Self-Test.

2. When the DTC's begin to be displayed, deactivate Self-Test:

--Remove the jumper wire from between Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Signal Return Pin of the DLC.



3. Continuous Memory will be erased in the PCM.

 

Thanx 94_4wdr,
You're technically correct. I am "short cutting" Hoyles Version of correct precedures.

However with customer vehicles I have records on, or access of records for, or if I've access to an Analyzer, as I used to, I'd clear only the Transient, KAM, or "D" codes.

But in my own shop, I just dump it all because ROM contains Continuous Memory & as you say it will, or should, re-establish in 10-15 miles of diverse operation. I've no way of checking ROM for anything, but as it re-establishes, if it's clean, driveability will be good as new. If not I know I have more gremlins to deal with. . . . .

Sometimes when a vehicle is used 50/50 or 33.3/33.3/33.3 by multiple drivers, I've been able to clean up lackluster performance issues with a total dump & rewrite of the kind I mentioned to Ried above. On a periodic basis when the vehicle is presented for any services. Makes for really pleased & happy Customers I found.

That way both programs are purged, KAM is deleted, CM starts clean again. . . .

I had a worked on a Turbo Coupe T-Bird that had a damaged EEC, but the vehicle still ran and drove. It was just slightly scrambled, and was gutless. B4 they gave it to me a lot of parts swapping had gone on, and a lot of code dumping had taken place. I'd get a few different codes for the same apparent problem at different times.

I could not make sense of what was happening until I wiped it all. Then I discovered my problem was the ECC, probably in ROM chip. A rebuilt ECC and customer was happy & the "Ser Mgr" bought me Lunch.
Some Tales from the Field, huh?

FBp

 

Look in your manual if you still have it and it will tell you how to clear codes with the tester. Basically, you start as if you were going to run a scan except when the STO light begins its brief flickering, you move the scanner switch from TEST to HOLD. That's all there is to it.

 

All the above advice was great, and I'm glad you got here running again. Keep an eye out for that HEGO code again, if it comes back, suspect a fuel delivery problem. Most likely causes for that, starting from the simplest, would be:
vacuum leak
fuel filter plugged
intake manifold leak (try re-torquing the bolts)
fuel pressure regulator faulty
fuel pump

 

Bear River,
You're right about Fuel Delivery System and Filters causing ancillary D codes being generated, when in fact it is a mechanically based problem.

There is no code for fuel filters of course, but low or intermittent Fuel PSI or Volume can make a monkey out of a tech in a hurry. Either can and will have you chasing stuff that does not exist. I learned the hard way to always make sure basics are in order before I suspect the Digi Operating or Management system has faults & failures.

I think a lot of techs, especially independents tend to go right to digital problems because that's where the BIG $$$$ usually is, even though the faults may not be.

don't forget:
Cracked/ Crimped hoses
Loose/Dirty body grounds
Loose/Dirty connectors
Loose fuel tank cap
Loose/Leaky Oil Filler tube cap/gasket
AD Infinitum

 

Well I took FordBoypete's advise and disconnected the battery with the switch turned on. This cut out only one code...the others still remain.

Test 3
The code 1-1-6 didn't show up this time but the other two did.
1-1-6 = Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor - signal voltage is higher than expected.
5-3-8 = insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test
5-3-6 = Brake On/Off (BOO) switch circuit failure.

Test 4
Same
1-7-2
5-3-8

Personnally I'm not to worried about these two codes. Unless of course you guys tell me differently. Let me know.

The van is running GREAT!!! except for the pesking vacuum line that keeps popping off.

Reid

 

The insufficient RPM change (538) means that you didn't give the vehicle gas at the proper time during the test. The computer will give you a single beep and then you are supposed to give the vehicle at least half throttle.
At this time you are supposed to tap the brake, so that the computer knows the brake circuit is working. If you do not do this, the computer will set code (536).
Ignore both of those codes, they are not memory codes.

Have you replaced the vacuum line that keeps coming off? I would suspect the line is damaged and should be replaced.

 

well, clear codes and run test againe. If 116 code appeares againe, check ECT voltage, may be really the signal is too hight.

 

Hitting the gas petal and brake are for Test 4...not Test 3. I is very very hard to even reach the vacuum line much less to replace it. I've had to tie wrap several of the lines on the vacuum tree. This one seems to be to large for the tree stump. The line is a very small hard plastic line with a large rubber elbow on the end that connects to the vacuum tree.

Reid

 

Red Bear:

I suspect that a large chunk of the codes you got is just a manifestation of your running a test the PCM is not designed to do.

Stepping on the brakes and goosing the engine starts a dynamic response test, which is only valid for SFI engines (3.0L and '96 & '97 4.0L). Your '95 4.0L has MFI, for which the dynamic response test cannot be performed.

About the ECT, are you sure you are using the correct connector for it? Aerocolorado had a similar problem recently. The correct plug is black in color, and there is another pinkish/brownish (heck, I can't tell the color anymore) but otherwise identical plug that's not used.

Sorry, Aerocolorado, didn't mean to rub salt into old wounds

About the HO2 sensor code, you have got to take care of that. I suspect you have a vacuum leak problem and some back firing if your vacuum lines keep popping off. That's a strange problem since it has never happened to me in all those years, and I do have both the 3.0L and the 4.0L versons of the van.