When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm finally going to flush/change my coolant today. If I don't remove the plug drain on passenger's side because it's so hard to get to, how much old coolant will remain in there?
Also, the two heater hoses are the ones going into the firewall on passenger's side, right? Can I flush directly where heater hose goes into the block and it flush out through the drain plug? Will it hurt anything because I leave the passenger's side drain plug in?
I don't know how much coolant will remain without the Passenger side plug. No much I would guess a gallon or less. Also yes you can flush thru the heater hose connection and out the drain plug. I just run lots of water thru them. Run it till it comes thru clear. then get as much of the water out as you can then button it up and refill.
I don't know how much coolant will remain without the Passenger side plug. No much I would guess a gallon or less. Also yes you can flush thru the heater hose connection and out the drain plug. I just run lots of water thru them. Run it till it comes thru clear. then get as much of the water out as you can then button it up and refill.
How do you get as much water out as possible besides letting gravity take it's course?
Well I removed radiator plug and not much came out then I disconncecte expansion hose from lower radiator hose and a lot came out. I really don't think I'm gonna get that driver's side drain plug out. I don't want to torch it because there just looks like a little too much stuff right around it that might ignite. I put some PB blaster on it but I don't think that will help, hope so. I am also going to change the stat and if I can't drain the driver's side plug it's probably going to go everywhere when I remove stat housing?
Heads up for ya. I just finished putting a 203 stat in my truck and put it back together. LEAK! Be sure and put a small bead of silicone around the top side of the water pump surface and put it all back together. Make sure you let it dry for about an hour or so before you put your coolant back in.
If you have a brand new long neck waiting to go in, disregard the silicone, if not save yourself the time of taking it all apart again like me.
Heads up for ya. I just finished putting a 203 stat in my truck and put it back together. LEAK! Be sure and put a small bead of silicone around the top side of the water pump surface and put it all back together. Make sure you let it dry for about an hour or so before you put your coolant back in.
If you have a brand new long neck waiting to go in, disregard the silicone, if not save yourself the time of taking it all apart again like me.
Well of course I don't have any silicone, anything else work instead?
Well of course I don't have any silicone, anything else work instead?
I have some stuff called "Sil-Glyde" It's a Napa product and says it contains silicone, repels water and is effective from -20 to 600 F degrees. Think that will work? Just a thin layer around top of stat housing?
I don't know if it will work I have never used it. I would wait and get some Ultra Blue silicone from NAPA or any other auto parts store.
Since you cannot get the block drain plug out, if you really want to flush the block good, I would suggest the following (I have done this alot and it works good).
Get a flush kit (it has a plastic "T" that you put in the heater hose and a connector for a garden hose). Drain the radiator and remove the lower hose. Install the flush kit, hook up the hose and turn it on. Let it run until the water is clear. Close the radiator drain and replace hose. Cap the flush kit "T" and fill the radiator with plain water and a radiator flush (garden hose water is fine). Drive the truck a couple hours or a day.
Repeat the drain and flush. Fill with plain water only. Drive the truck for a day or two.
Repeat the drain and flush and then fill with your 50/50 antifreeze mix and/or add the SCA. Your done. We do this on tractors and farm trucks where the block drain plugs has corroded and cannot be remove. It work good, just takes a bit longer to get everything out of the block.
I don't know if it will work I have never used it. I would wait and get some Ultra Blue silicone from NAPA or any other auto parts store.
Since you cannot get the block drain plug out, if you really want to flush the block good, I would suggest the following (I have done this alot and it works good).
Get a flush kit (it has a plastic "T" that you put in the heater hose and a connector for a garden hose). Drain the radiator and remove the lower hose. Install the flush kit, hook up the hose and turn it on. Let it run until the water is clear. Close the radiator drain and replace hose. Cap the flush kit "T" and fill the radiator with plain water and a radiator flush (garden hose water is fine). Drive the truck a couple hours or a day.
Repeat the drain and flush. Fill with plain water only. Drive the truck for a day or two.
Repeat the drain and flush and then fill with your 50/50 antifreeze mix and/or add the SCA. Your done. We do this on tractors and farm trucks where the block drain plugs has corroded and cannot be remove. It work good, just takes a bit longer to get everything out of the block.
O.K. let me see if I get this. Can I just disconnect expansion hose as this allows a big drain hole for lower rad hose. You install the T flush kit on the heater hose and water pump, correct? By doing this, this allows water to flow through the block backwards, correct.
I drain the radiator through the drain valve until empty, then I disconnect the lower hose from the radiator.
Install the "T" flush kit on the heater hose about 8 to 10 inches from the firewall, (I like to place them right infront of the AC drier with cap pointed up) this makes it eaiser to get to and also lets you bleed air out of the system as you refill it (leave the cap cracked open on the "T", air will come out and when you see coolant start to come out tighten the cap and about 95% of the air in the cooling system has been bleed off).
I drain the radiator through the drain valve until empty, then I disconnect the lower hose from the radiator.
Install the "T" flush kit on the heater hose about 8 to 10 inches from the firewall, (I like to place them right infront of the AC drier with cap pointed up) this makes it eaiser to get to and also lets you bleed air out of the system as you refill it (leave the cap cracked open on the "T", air will come out and when you see coolant start to come out tighten the cap and about 95% of the air in the cooling system has been bleed off).
So do you just leave the T in the heater hose permanently? I think I'll just disconnect the expansion hose form lower hose for time sake and it will still drain the same.
Yes, you just leave the "T" in the heater hose. Next time you need to flush, you just take the cap off of the "T" and screw the hose connector on to the "T" and then connect your garden hose and flush away. By the way, I know that Prestone makes a flush kit but I'm sure others do also.
Last edited by plowhand; Jul 12, 2007 at 08:45 PM.
Reason: spelling
Yes, you just leave the "T" in the heater hose. Next time you need to flush, you just take the cap off of the "T" and screw the hose connector on to the "T" and then connect your garden hose and flush away. By the way, I know that Prestone makes a flush kit but I'm sure others do also.
Just got back from auto store and have my $4 Prestone flush kit. I'll let you know what happens.