flushing
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From: Albuquerque
Tn, I would recommend that you let the silicone dry for SEVERAL hours, not one like I originally said. I have taken the assembly apart again as it leaks the second time around. I am going to let it sit overnight to dry then refill in the AM.
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Originally Posted by Suber
Tn, I would recommend that you let the silicone dry for SEVERAL hours, not one like I originally said. I have taken the assembly apart again as it leaks the second time around. I am going to let it sit overnight to dry then refill in the AM.
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Originally Posted by plowhand
I don't know if it will work I have never used it. I would wait and get some Ultra Blue silicone from NAPA or any other auto parts store.
Since you cannot get the block drain plug out, if you really want to flush the block good, I would suggest the following (I have done this alot and it works good).
Get a flush kit (it has a plastic "T" that you put in the heater hose and a connector for a garden hose). Drain the radiator and remove the lower hose. Install the flush kit, hook up the hose and turn it on. Let it run until the water is clear. Close the radiator drain and replace hose. Cap the flush kit "T" and fill the radiator with plain water and a radiator flush (garden hose water is fine). Drive the truck a couple hours or a day.
Repeat the drain and flush. Fill with plain water only. Drive the truck for a day or two.
Repeat the drain and flush and then fill with your 50/50 antifreeze mix and/or add the SCA. Your done. We do this on tractors and farm trucks where the block drain plugs has corroded and cannot be remove. It work good, just takes a bit longer to get everything out of the block.
Since you cannot get the block drain plug out, if you really want to flush the block good, I would suggest the following (I have done this alot and it works good).
Get a flush kit (it has a plastic "T" that you put in the heater hose and a connector for a garden hose). Drain the radiator and remove the lower hose. Install the flush kit, hook up the hose and turn it on. Let it run until the water is clear. Close the radiator drain and replace hose. Cap the flush kit "T" and fill the radiator with plain water and a radiator flush (garden hose water is fine). Drive the truck a couple hours or a day.
Repeat the drain and flush. Fill with plain water only. Drive the truck for a day or two.
Repeat the drain and flush and then fill with your 50/50 antifreeze mix and/or add the SCA. Your done. We do this on tractors and farm trucks where the block drain plugs has corroded and cannot be remove. It work good, just takes a bit longer to get everything out of the block.
Also, I only have time to fill tonight and then I'm driving in the morning. Will it settle overnight and I should top off in the morning or should I take a gallon of water with me when I leave?
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Elder User
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Originally Posted by plowhand
I don't know if it will work I have never used it. I would wait and get some Ultra Blue silicone from NAPA or any other auto parts store.
Since you cannot get the block drain plug out, if you really want to flush the block good, I would suggest the following (I have done this alot and it works good).
Get a flush kit (it has a plastic "T" that you put in the heater hose and a connector for a garden hose). Drain the radiator and remove the lower hose. Install the flush kit, hook up the hose and turn it on. Let it run until the water is clear. Close the radiator drain and replace hose. Cap the flush kit "T" and fill the radiator with plain water and a radiator flush (garden hose water is fine). Drive the truck a couple hours or a day.
Repeat the drain and flush. Fill with plain water only. Drive the truck for a day or two.
Repeat the drain and flush and then fill with your 50/50 antifreeze mix and/or add the SCA. Your done. We do this on tractors and farm trucks where the block drain plugs has corroded and cannot be remove. It work good, just takes a bit longer to get everything out of the block.
Since you cannot get the block drain plug out, if you really want to flush the block good, I would suggest the following (I have done this alot and it works good).
Get a flush kit (it has a plastic "T" that you put in the heater hose and a connector for a garden hose). Drain the radiator and remove the lower hose. Install the flush kit, hook up the hose and turn it on. Let it run until the water is clear. Close the radiator drain and replace hose. Cap the flush kit "T" and fill the radiator with plain water and a radiator flush (garden hose water is fine). Drive the truck a couple hours or a day.
Repeat the drain and flush. Fill with plain water only. Drive the truck for a day or two.
Repeat the drain and flush and then fill with your 50/50 antifreeze mix and/or add the SCA. Your done. We do this on tractors and farm trucks where the block drain plugs has corroded and cannot be remove. It work good, just takes a bit longer to get everything out of the block.
BTW, the T flush kit worked perfect! When refilling I left the top on the T open just a little and it pushed out almost all the air just like you said. It held 4 gallons of distilled water when refilling.
Playing in the Dirt
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Southwest Georgia
The flush helps loosen scale and deposits inside of the engine coolant passages. But yes you can just do it with water if you want to. Sorry about missing your last post last nite but.....I have to sleep sometime.
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Is there a gasket that will fit between the water pump housing and stat housing? Seems that would stop the leaking but hopefully the silicone will. If there is a gasket you can put a paper thin layer on the gasket and that would be water tight for sure.
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From: Albuquerque
The only permanent fix will be to replace the long neck. That is the problem. You should be OK in the morning. Mine set up nicely overnight and I drove it quite a bit today without any leakage. I am going to replace the neck as soon as it comes in.
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Originally Posted by Suber
The only permanent fix will be to replace the long neck. That is the problem. You should be OK in the morning. Mine set up nicely overnight and I drove it quite a bit today without any leakage. I am going to replace the neck as soon as it comes in.
Last edited by tndiesel; Jul 13, 2007 at 07:07 PM.
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From: Albuquerque
I doubt you are going to have much luck fabbing a gasket. It is supposed to seal with the gasket that comes with your t-stat, providing that the flange end of the neck is nice and smooth, without corrosion, or wear. Unfortunately they get corroded and dont seal properly unless it is brand new. I put a nice bead around the waterpump surface and it has sealed just fine. You are NOT going to be able to get away with just a thin layer of silicone as has been suggested by others. I would not worry too much about the silicone getting onto the t-stat as long as you are careful.
In the end you may have to just get a new neck like I did. The positive to all of this is that will be ONE part closer to a Brand new truck!!
In the end you may have to just get a new neck like I did. The positive to all of this is that will be ONE part closer to a Brand new truck!!
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Originally Posted by Suber
I doubt you are going to have much luck fabbing a gasket. It is supposed to seal with the gasket that comes with your t-stat, providing that the flange end of the neck is nice and smooth, without corrosion, or wear. Unfortunately they get corroded and dont seal properly unless it is brand new. I put a nice bead around the waterpump surface and it has sealed just fine. You are NOT going to be able to get away with just a thin layer of silicone as has been suggested by others. I would not worry too much about the silicone getting onto the t-stat as long as you are careful.
In the end you may have to just get a new neck like I did. The positive to all of this is that will be ONE part closer to a Brand new truck!!
In the end you may have to just get a new neck like I did. The positive to all of this is that will be ONE part closer to a Brand new truck!!
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From: Albuquerque
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=334
The price on this has gone up to 42.00. I just ordered one on Friday.
The Permatex may hold for quite a while and you may not even need to go further. I just did it as a tie-over until the new neck comes in.
The price on this has gone up to 42.00. I just ordered one on Friday.
The Permatex may hold for quite a while and you may not even need to go further. I just did it as a tie-over until the new neck comes in.
Last edited by Suber; Jul 13, 2007 at 09:52 PM.
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Originally Posted by Suber
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=334
The price on this has gone up to 42.00. I just ordered one on Friday.
The Permatex may hold for quite a while and you may not even need to go further. I just did it as a tie-over until the new neck comes in.
The price on this has gone up to 42.00. I just ordered one on Friday.
The Permatex may hold for quite a while and you may not even need to go further. I just did it as a tie-over until the new neck comes in.