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Frustrated and looking for some help.

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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 05:42 PM
  #1  
mndiesel's Avatar
mndiesel
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From: Circle Pines
Frustrated and looking for some help.

I just spent the weekend going down and back from Minneapolis to Omaha. I was towing an 8000lb travel trailer. I started out at 65mph and notice my boost guage was at 2psi. I found 2 boots loose and tightened them. Got back on the road and then I had betwen 3-4psi. Drove down there still getting 11.5 mpg and checked the uppipe boots per Kwik and Alan (thanks guys). I did find the drivers side has slipped down a little so I readjusted and tighted both sides. NO CHANGE IN PSI.. ARGHH. On the way back it felt like a 50 foot sail was on top of the truck. The wierd thing is I still got 11.1MPG (all mpg hand calculated). The egt's were at 900 post turbo at 50-55 mph going p the 100+ hills on the way. Without the trailer I could get 20-21 psi of boost and egts never went past 600 even up the hills. I also used my laser thermometer on all of the brakes when I stopped midway back for fuel. All brakes including the trailer were between 131-135 degrees which to me means that they were not lagging at all.

Any ideas would be welcome. I am suppose to leave next weekend for Massachusetts for a family reunion towing the trailer.

I am not sure if the boots still could be bad or could it be a post turbo exhaust leak (downpipe) causing the loss of boost and power. Stock exhaust with walker BTM.

Also I change settings on the dp-tuner trying all of them stock-40-60 and 80econ. No change in psi.

Thanks to all who reply. Tom
 

Last edited by mndiesel; Jul 8, 2007 at 06:37 PM.
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 06:32 PM
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countrystrokin'
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From: Eldorado springs,Mo
Im not real sure but i think it mint be the map sensor ? not real sure tough, someone will chime in. mabe kwick ??
 
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 06:47 PM
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From: Cut & Shoot, Texas
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You can check those up pipes by crawling under there and looking for soot around the connections.

Kwik ran a thread a couple of weeks back about the effects of leaky up pipes and how they rob a truck of power and mileage.


I am not an expert by any means but I am sure that one of the gurus around here will be along soon to give you some things to check.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 07:00 PM
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From: Circle Pines
Also the wastegate on ae shows 99.11 all the time. I believe it should read something else at idle. help!!!! If this could be the problem how can I fix it. Thanks Tom
 

Last edited by mndiesel; Jul 8, 2007 at 07:07 PM.
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 07:20 PM
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From: Central, Al
Tom the waistgat should be < 1% duty cycle at idle (Open) and then Close (99% duty cycle) once you start moving until you build a little boost and then the PCM will regulate the Duty Cycle to provide the correct boost. Rons Powerstroke had a similar issue and it was a plugged green line.

Check this out
http://www.7point3.com/AETips/Docs/Wastegate.pdf
 
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 07:41 PM
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
That's very interesting, Alan. So if you pull that line, the wastegate stays closed at idle. That also would confirm the reason why I think the turbo spools up a bit faster -- no delay waiting for the WG to close. There's no reason for it staying closed to cause any kind of problems are there??
 
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 09:04 PM
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From: Circle Pines
Alan,
I checked the lines both are clear(red and green). I did the mechanical checks and found one bad, from pin 1 to pin 2 it was an open circuit. Checked the fuse even though voltage was good from 2 to gnd (12.5). It looks like I have an open wire somewhere right??????? I hope there is another solution because I am in a back brace from surgery and a shop will be outrageous at best. Any suggestion would be helpful. Tom
 
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 09:14 PM
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From: Central, Al
A common spot for opens and shorts to ground is on each side of the 42 pin connector over the driverside valve cover. There is about 1/2 inch before the loom starts and wire can get chaffed over the years.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 09:19 PM
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From: Circle Pines
Thanks Alan, The fun begins in the morning.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 09:29 PM
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From: Central, Al
There is a 10mm bolt holding the connector together. After removing it separate the connector and the outboard side is easy to inspect.

Push the clip down on the inboard side and pus it toward the driverside fender and then wiggle it back through the hole and you can lift it up and get a look, but there is not much slack in that side so after putting it back together check the valve cover connectors I have seen them pop loose messing with that 42pin connector.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by amiller93
A common spot for opens and shorts to ground is on each side of the 42 pin connector over the driverside valve cover. There is about 1/2 inch before the loom starts and wire can get chaffed over the years.
Or within a few scant moments of Earnesteugene yanking on them telling you about it until you see what he is doing and tell him to quit. LOL.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 09:37 PM
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From: Central, Al
Thats what the duct tape is for though isn't it?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 09:45 PM
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From: Middle Tennessee
Absolutely, but the heat safe variety here. He was truly trying to check mine and show me something but I was a few hundred miles away from home without my tools and multimeter. He needed to quit pulling on that. I was waiting to dyno. Earnest is a great guy, you need to meet him someday.

His head is so full of info and experience/ideas that it seems set to explode at any moment. He has a scientific approach to most things in case you haven't noticed. He will quantify everything he does. He is a very smart fella.
 

Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; Jul 8, 2007 at 09:49 PM.
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 09:52 PM
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From: Central, Al
He is supposed to come through here next spring, its going to be fun putting AE on his truck and getting some live data.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 08:04 AM
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From: Circle Pines
Alan,
Thanks for explaining how to check those wires. I will update later. Tom
 
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