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The breaker bar method will be more accurate in this case.(And just as easy) The erratic timing observed with the light can be caused by more than just a loose chain.
The breaker bar method will be more accurate in this case.(And just as easy) The erratic timing observed with the light can be caused by more than just a loose chain.
well, i checked today and there was 12-13 degrees of play before the rotor started moving. so i guess that is the problem. just wondering, could this have damaged any other components since its been doing this for a few months?
i don't think it is running rich. i think it just is so far off on timing that its not burning the gas all the way so its smoking. i guess it just needs to be rebuilt all together, the air box is always coated in oil. so the rings are about shot. if thats the case, i'll probably stick a 351 or I-6 in as it needs more torque. but the 302 will still be good for another project.
Do a compression test first (after you fix the timing set and set your timing). There are several things that can cause oil in the air box besides rings, that are a lot cheaper than a rebuild. The cheapest is a bad pcv valve, or one of the old vaccum lines from the pcv that's collapsing, allowing the intake vaccum to suck oil up into the air cleaner. In extreme cases, it will blow oil out of the dipstick tube. I like to start with the cheapest stuff first , but the comp. check can tell you a bunch, along with a leakdown test. Most of the chain parts stores have lend-a-tool programs, if you don't have the cash or want to buy specialty tools.
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