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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 07:18 PM
  #16  
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The breaker bar method will be more accurate in this case.(And just as easy) The erratic timing observed with the light can be caused by more than just a loose chain.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 07:22 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by baddad457
The breaker bar method will be more accurate in this case.(And just as easy) The erratic timing observed with the light can be caused by more than just a loose chain.

I agree...........if that matters any...lol
 
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 06:21 PM
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well, i checked today and there was 12-13 degrees of play before the rotor started moving. so i guess that is the problem. just wondering, could this have damaged any other components since its been doing this for a few months?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:09 PM
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I doubt it, unless you can hear any obvious noises. Just replace the timing set.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 04:49 PM
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k, thanks. just was afraid it might cause a valve to open while a piston was at tdc. seen some nasty pictures of that.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 04:57 PM
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I should have heard it if you would have slammed a piston into a valve
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 05:27 PM
  #22  
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it is loose but did it slip?

and would it make it run rich...?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 02:56 PM
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what do you mean did it slip? The smoking i'm pretty sure is from incomplete burning of the gas.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 04:22 PM
  #24  
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did it jump timing? and if it did how does that make it run rich?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 08:33 AM
  #25  
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i don't think it is running rich. i think it just is so far off on timing that its not burning the gas all the way so its smoking. i guess it just needs to be rebuilt all together, the air box is always coated in oil. so the rings are about shot. if thats the case, i'll probably stick a 351 or I-6 in as it needs more torque. but the 302 will still be good for another project.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 06:49 PM
  #26  
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Do a compression test first (after you fix the timing set and set your timing). There are several things that can cause oil in the air box besides rings, that are a lot cheaper than a rebuild. The cheapest is a bad pcv valve, or one of the old vaccum lines from the pcv that's collapsing, allowing the intake vaccum to suck oil up into the air cleaner. In extreme cases, it will blow oil out of the dipstick tube. I like to start with the cheapest stuff first , but the comp. check can tell you a bunch, along with a leakdown test. Most of the chain parts stores have lend-a-tool programs, if you don't have the cash or want to buy specialty tools.


Pete


Pete
 
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 11:03 PM
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yeah, i knew about the pcv valve and it has a new one, but i didn't think about the tube. i'll give the compression test a try though. thanks
 
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