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I want to build a high performance engine for my 67 F250. Is it possible to buy all the necessary parts brand new for under $3000? Also, keeping in mind that I wont be towing anything, yet I want "off the line" performance, what size block should I get?
You might want to check what engine you currently have under you '67 pickup's hood.If you want streetable off-the-line type power,to move a heavy vehicle like a pick-up,you'll want to add a RV-type cam to the engine you choose to increase it's low end torque,and mid-range power.You should be able to find a complete rebuilt V-8 for under(or close to) $3,000 like you want to spend.My guess is that will be either a 302,or 351 cid Windsor smallblock.If your '67 is stock,most likely you have a 240cid six, a 300cid six,or a 352cid V-8 in it.If you have the FE-series big-block 352 engine,I'd suggest either having a mild performance rebuild done to it,or putting a larger FE(390)in it's place.The 390 is an easy engine to upgrade for street performance,but I don't know if you can get one complete&built-up for under $3,000.I had a 390GT engine rebuilt back in 1991 for my '68 Torino,and it was just over that amount.You can always check out different websites to price different engines.You might have to also get a different transmission if you go with a different engine than what your truck currently has in it.
Thanks for the input. Yeah I think I have a 352, with a 4 barrel carb, and a stock fuel intake manifold. I just got a nice dual exhaust system put in, and so it sounds nice, but the power off the line is miserable. My mechanic says he did a compression test and that the thing doesn't need to be rebuilt. I've been told to go with a lower (higher) number ratio on the rearend gears to have better acceleration on take off. Whats odd is that I can floor it and it just seems so damn stubborn. Once I get going on the freeway though I'm cool. Before I spend the thousand or so dollars to do that is that really going to help a lot do you think? Perhaps that, along with a new fuel intake manifold will do the trick.
Yeah,if it is the 352 big-block,and it is in good enough condition,you might just try swapping to steeper gears like 4.10:1s.To get some more power from the stock 352,you might add a set of headers,and upgrade to dual 2 1/4" diameter exhaust.You really don't want to go any size larger than that with a mild 352 because you want to keep it's good low end torque.
Yesh, I'll agree, if the truck runs well but you are lackimg acceleration punch, going with the 4.10 gears will do that for you. For that matter, without the right gearing, any angine will disappoint you, even a big block.
Of course, you will lose some MPG, there's no free lunch.
Ok that sounds great I'll change the gears. I've been quoted $1,000+ to do that sort of thing since I'm not so sure I want to try and do that myself being an amateur. Does a $1,000+ sound right? What am I paying for? I mean what would the hardware itself cost (give or take)to do this? I don't even know what parts I need to shop around for. Any ideas?
You'd be better off leaving the job to a shop that specializes in rebuilding rears.They'll know what they'll need to do the job,but $1,000+ sounds a bit high,so you might shop around/get a few price quotes from a couple different shops.If I remember correctly,the shop that did my 390 Torino's 9" rear rebuilt the center section,and fitted it with 3.91:1 gears& a Traction-Lok unit for somewhere between $300-400.It had 3.25:1 gears(open-non-limited-slip) before that.Your F-250 most likey has something more stout like a Dana 60,so it would probably be a bit more expensive,but $1,000(+) is a lot of money to just swap gear ratios.The extra money you save by shopping around for a better price could be put towards some bolt on upgrades for your 352 engine.Just something to consider.Good luck.
>Ok that sounds great I'll change the gears. I've been
>quoted $1,000+ to do that sort of thing since I'm not so
>sure I want to try and do that myself being an amateur.
>Does a $1,000+ sound right? What am I paying for? I mean
>what would the hardware itself cost (give or take)to do
>this? I don't even know what parts I need to shop around
>for. Any ideas?
I put a posi unit in my truck, not that hard to do and it only cost the price of the new posi. However, I did have NAPA put the gears on the housing. I would not suggest trying that on your own unles tou have all the right tools. So the cost for the ring gear swap at NAPA...$10.00 and it only took a couple of hours.
randys ring and pionon sells complete pumpkin members for around 700 i got a quote for mine but that includes a detroit locker and any gear i chose so all you have to do is un bolt your other pumkin pull out the axles and swap thats the way im going to do it. I watched a friend of mines do his gears and it my opion it isnt worth paying 200 for the gears it was such a hassle we had to pull the damn thing out 4-5x cause the gears whernt matching up and the dummy said that works went by eye instead of usings gauges and he eneded up blowing his rear up so yeah i would either leave it to the pros or buy an already set up system and drop thati n yourself
theres tons of gear places if you cant find them go buy a fourwheeler book theres tons of adds in them