95 B2300 sputtering at idle
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95 B2300 sputtering at idle
1994 Mazda B2300 4 cyl 5 sp manual
Last March we were 350 miles into a trip when we filled with gas in NJ. Within a few miles I stopped at a traffic light and the engine stalled. After I got it restarted, it started sputtering & coughing. Once underway, it seemed to be OK but it did the same thing at the next stop light. I figured it was water in the fuel. Treated it with Dry Gas but it did not get a lot better. Managed to get back home but the truck continued to sputter, cough & stall-sometimes more than others. When the problem persisted and did not respond to gas treatment products, I attempted to drain the fuel tank. I separated the fuel line at the filter and used the fuel pump until it would no longer pump fuel. I did not see any water in the drained gas. It is now July and the problem is still there. Fuel mileage has not suffered-still 27 mpg. As long as it is running at highway speed, one would think everything was normal. There are occasions when it even idles normally at a stop light and one would think that the problem has gone away, only to have it recur again. I have also noticed that when parked on an incline with the front end higher than the rear the problem is always present when you try to restart the vehicle. When the engine is cold it is more likely to function normally.
When I looked in the service manual, the fuel pump seemed to be located in the center of the tank as opposed to one end, which would seem to negate my thoughts that a puddle of water was accumulating at the back of the tank when the front end is up. Because the problem has persisted, I am beginning to think about other causes rather than the fuel but my scan tool shows no codes at all. I read a post about the coolant sensor and I thought that might be the problem. Sadly, the sensor checked out OK with ohm meter, voltmeter, and DCL data. I thought there might be a problem with the TPS but it seems to check out OK on DCL data too.
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Is there any way to completely drain the tank without removing it so I can rule out water in the tank? Any thoughts or suggestions about anything else to check will be greatly appreciated.
<o></o>
Last March we were 350 miles into a trip when we filled with gas in NJ. Within a few miles I stopped at a traffic light and the engine stalled. After I got it restarted, it started sputtering & coughing. Once underway, it seemed to be OK but it did the same thing at the next stop light. I figured it was water in the fuel. Treated it with Dry Gas but it did not get a lot better. Managed to get back home but the truck continued to sputter, cough & stall-sometimes more than others. When the problem persisted and did not respond to gas treatment products, I attempted to drain the fuel tank. I separated the fuel line at the filter and used the fuel pump until it would no longer pump fuel. I did not see any water in the drained gas. It is now July and the problem is still there. Fuel mileage has not suffered-still 27 mpg. As long as it is running at highway speed, one would think everything was normal. There are occasions when it even idles normally at a stop light and one would think that the problem has gone away, only to have it recur again. I have also noticed that when parked on an incline with the front end higher than the rear the problem is always present when you try to restart the vehicle. When the engine is cold it is more likely to function normally.
When I looked in the service manual, the fuel pump seemed to be located in the center of the tank as opposed to one end, which would seem to negate my thoughts that a puddle of water was accumulating at the back of the tank when the front end is up. Because the problem has persisted, I am beginning to think about other causes rather than the fuel but my scan tool shows no codes at all. I read a post about the coolant sensor and I thought that might be the problem. Sadly, the sensor checked out OK with ohm meter, voltmeter, and DCL data. I thought there might be a problem with the TPS but it seems to check out OK on DCL data too.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>Is there any way to completely drain the tank without removing it so I can rule out water in the tank? Any thoughts or suggestions about anything else to check will be greatly appreciated.
<o
></o>
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Thank you for your thoughts. Fuel filter changed recently and tried cleaning the MAF sensor with no change. Latest event happened yesterday. Made 125 mile round trip with problems at only about half the traffic lights. Just as I pulled into driveway, it started running rough. Parked it to run a KOEO scan, which showed OK. Tried to run KOER and engine will not start. It was 95 F and very humid today so did not work on it but I did try to start it again and it would not. After reading the manual again, I think I am going to check the ignition system. I am wondering if the crankshaft position sensor could have been failing and then finally gave out. At any rate I am going to have to check the EDIS ignition module, ignition coils, and the crankshaft position sensor. I have no experience with any of these and all parts are kind of pricey-between $75 and $250 so I don't want to replace parts unnecessarily. I will be following the procedure in the Haynes Manual . Will appreciate any suggestions or tales of experience. I would also like to hear from the group about any experiences they may have regarding the relative failure rates of any of these components.
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