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Reading other posts and see where by advance cam timing 4 degrees you pick-up low-end torque. When I installed my Compcam I put it in straight up using compcams roller chain set. Would there be a noticable difference if I reset it to 4 degress advanced and does it increase chances of having valve to piston clearance problems? Engine runs great but it seems it does'nt start pulling until after 1500 rpms or so. Cam was supposed to be for idle to 5000.
Thanks.
Clint
Hey Clint,
My cam is installed just like yours. We have the same rpm range too, and mine doesn't really come alive till about 2,000. With 3.08 gears I really need to bring my power band down. If you figure this one out let me know ok?
hey 71, contact the cam grinder and ask that question. the tech dept should be able to get you on the right road. the tech guy should also be able to address the rpm range. i wouldnt experiment with advancing or retarding cam timing with out the help of the cam manuf. just one guys opinion.
Your CompCam, like most aftermarket catalog cams, has 4 degrees of advance built in when you install it straight up. Don't advance it another four degrees unless you're looking for serious, engine damaging problems. Read this post from the 460 forum:
As already said, the cam probably is already in 4 deg advanced. When you advance a cam, the piston to valve clearance for the intake valve decreases. This usually isn't a great concern until you get pretty a pretty radical cam, but it's still worth checking the clearance ( it beats dropping a valve and destroying a motor ).
Advancing/retarding a cam are really only for fine tuning what you have. According to my Crane Cams Master Catalog a 4 degree advance/retard only moves your power band 200 RPM up/down its range. The cheapest "fix" either one of you can do now is: 1. buy a smaller cam or 2. install a 2000-2400 stall converter. Deen
Hmmmmmmmm......appreciate the feedback guys. Stall convertor wont work for me on my manual tranny unfortunately. So I guess you're right with the smaller cam thing. Either that or replace gears to something lower, which is probably what I will end up doing.
That was a good post. Very informative. I'll leave it alone. It pulls good enough to leave alot of imports sitting at the light.
Thanks for the responses.
Clint
Ron, you can have the same effects of a stall converter by revving the engine up more before you dump the clutch, that's basically what a stall converter does anyway.
'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing
Yup, don't advance the cam...been there done that. I didn't take advice and performace was bad, so I reset it for straight up on a stock cam and am happy. I got a response back from Edelbrock on this, and they said to never advance a stock cam, and aftermarket cam must be set strtaight up for them to work correctly.
Don't do what I did. I will suggest a lower rear end gear ratio. I went from 3.55 to 4.10 and Whoa Boy! What a difference in low end!
First of all do you have a degree wheel? This is VERY important to see where your cam is already. If you through it in out of the box with there marks, yea it will run. But if you want to change things you need to use the wheel to see wher you are now, then make changes.
Robert
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