rubber dilly in steering column?
Here's a thread from a little while back about the coupler:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...placement.html
Be careful and check the parts store brand vs
Ford's OEM replacement, Ford's is of better quality
and yes higher priced. Rather replace once with quality
than twice with something highly possibly made over seas.
C9UZ-3A525-A Replaces Ford part numbers: C9TZ-3A525-A & D3TZ-3A525-A
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I work behind a parts counter at an automotive store.
Sometimes I'm called a genius, sometimes I'm called much more.
I'm supposed to know the Ford part numbers, of bolts, nut and gears....
For every Ford that was ever made for more than 80 years.
But life would be a pleasure, and I'd grin from ear to ear, if....
THE CUSTOMER WOULD ONLY LIST ... THE MAKE, MODEL & YEAR!!
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I'M NOT A MIND READER. IF YOU DON'T LIST WHAT THE *&(^&%^%^ YOU ARE WORKING ON, IT'S DARN NEAR IMPOSSIBLE TO HELP!
PROFILE INFO AIN'T ALWAYS CORRECT, AS SOMEONE MAY HAVE MORE THAN ONE VEHICLE.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Jul 4, 2007 at 05:24 PM.
This also would be a good time to check the alignment of the steering shaft to steering box input shaft alignment preventing unecessary steering box and column bearing side force as well the new joint from cab mount bushing sag over the years.
A over tight sector shaft adjustment is worse than a loose box leading to a fast steering box failure. 11-14 inch/lbs torque difference between straight ahead preload vs off center, this can only be done properly after the link or pitman arm has been removed or a bench job for the proper preload.
Without a tq wrench it can be done by "feel" if you rotate the shaft from center to off center by hand by grasping the rag joint, this allows for better feel than grasping that large steering wheel detecting preload. Again with steering box not hooked up to steering link.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Jul 4, 2007 at 06:51 PM.
If so start looking for a replacement gearbox because your's is about to become "N~G" in a hurry.
FBp









