brakes
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Senior User
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brakes
i have too much travel in my pedal and they are spongey...i did the power booster test and it passed..i got a one man brake bleed kit and bled the brakes but it seems to still have a lotta air in the system..i dont think that one man tool is any good..also..how do ya bleed the master cylinder????????????????// any ideas what is wrong??
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,313
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From: Rio Rancho NM
Did you just replace your MC? There should be a bleed kit in with the new one if you went that route. You can buy them for a few bucks. Get a helper to bleed the wheel cyls/calipers or use a 2X4 between the brake pedal and steering wheel.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: MARYLAND
have someone help you bleed brakes the ole fashioned way..pump, hold, bleede..lol. That is the only way that has ever wored best for me.
Another thing i've come across is after you've checked everything and beat your head against the wall is..The front brake lines..the rubber part. I've had them where cuz they are old be bad..just cuz they look ok they are not. Years of use causes the hose to swell..so if you are bleeding them you think you get it right but after some use you are back to a low pedal. This is a common problem with 4 wheeling and why people opt out and buy the steel braided brake lines. I've got the steel braided brake lines on mine and have no problems anymore.
Another thing i've come across is after you've checked everything and beat your head against the wall is..The front brake lines..the rubber part. I've had them where cuz they are old be bad..just cuz they look ok they are not. Years of use causes the hose to swell..so if you are bleeding them you think you get it right but after some use you are back to a low pedal. This is a common problem with 4 wheeling and why people opt out and buy the steel braided brake lines. I've got the steel braided brake lines on mine and have no problems anymore.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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Originally Posted by dogg16
it must be the booster ..i think i hear air coming out when i push hard on the pedal
The test I always use is with the truck/car turned off, press the brake pedal 20 times. If it is hard by the 20th pump, your brake booster is fine, because its filled itself up with air. Then when you start the vehicle, it goes back to normal.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
1) Check your wear on your shoes and pads
2) Bleed front and rear brakes
3) Adjust rear brakes
4) Check parking brake cable adjustment
5) Replace parts as necessary
How long has it been since the entire system has been bled? Old dirty fluid can cause problems as well. Make sure when you're bleeding the brakes, that you keep the master cylinder FULL of fluid at all times, otherwise, you will get air in the lines and it will take that much longer. The optimal number of people to do a brake bleed is three, but two will work. The person operating the bleed screws on your brakes will have to check the master cylinder fluid level EVERY time you bleed each brake. When you have clean and clear bubble-less fluid coming out of the bleeder, you're good.
2) Bleed front and rear brakes
3) Adjust rear brakes
4) Check parking brake cable adjustment
5) Replace parts as necessary
How long has it been since the entire system has been bled? Old dirty fluid can cause problems as well. Make sure when you're bleeding the brakes, that you keep the master cylinder FULL of fluid at all times, otherwise, you will get air in the lines and it will take that much longer. The optimal number of people to do a brake bleed is three, but two will work. The person operating the bleed screws on your brakes will have to check the master cylinder fluid level EVERY time you bleed each brake. When you have clean and clear bubble-less fluid coming out of the bleeder, you're good.
Last edited by kernel-panic; Jul 4, 2007 at 08:38 AM.
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I replaced the front and rear pads,shoes.. adjusted the rear brakes(had to adjust almost all the way out..it that normal??} replaced the booster check valve(ity was bad)still too much travel in the pedal..its like two or three inches of free travel b4 it engages..then another couple inches..i cant afford a new booster..but i'll check the junk yards and see if i can find a decent lookin one..man if i ever get done with this buggy its gonna be almost all replacement parts lol..i'm trying to get the a/c to keep charged..tried stop leak..we'll see how that works..then gonna tackle the overdrive is not connected or not working..thats next..my soc sec check is spent b4 i get it lol...thanx guys for all the input
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Carpenter Local 745
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: on da beach
Check for leaks in the vaccum lines, a tiny little crack under the clamps could do you in. I know how old Bronco IIs are, the hoses maybe just as old.
Just give it a good instpection to rule out this possibility. Heck its free! The inspection that is.
Just give it a good instpection to rule out this possibility. Heck its free! The inspection that is.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
When you replaced the pads and shoes, did you also replace the HARDWARE? Were there any signs of leakage from the rear wheel cylinders or the front calipers? If there are no hydraulic leaks and the hardware was replaced and you can bleed the brakes with the bleeders, you probably still need to bleed some more. The pedal with the engine OFF should be fairly stiff and difficult to push down. Remember, farthest point from master cylinder first and then in succession to the closest point. Usually, this is starting at the passenger rear brake, then driver's rear, then passenger front, then driver's front. It could also be that the master cylinder is going bad, or a vacuum leak.
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