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If the Twin I-Beam axles are the forged variety, which were used from 1965 through 1981, camber can be corrected by bending the axle with a hydraulic ram. To make a make a positive camber correction, a rigid work beam is slung under the axle from a pair of clevis blocks. A hydraulic ram is then placed under the middle of the axle. When pressure is applied, the ram bends the axle upward and tilts the knuckle down to increase camber. A slight amount of overbending is usually needed to compensate for spring back in the axle. A negative camber correction is made by removing the outboard clevis block and inserting a spacer between the work beam and axle. The hydraulic ram is then repositioned directly under the inner axle bushing. When pressure is applied, the work beam bends the outer end of the axle up which tilts the knuckle and decreases camber.
Good luck finding a place that will bend your I beams. I looked for years to find one. Getting another I beam from the junkyard might be easier if you are ok with working on the king pins, which can also be troublesome if you don't know what to watch for. The hydraulic ram method will work as long as you have a means to measure camber; An alignment rack is more suited to the task. If you find a place that does I beam camber adjustment, please post.
Good luck finding a place that will bend your I beams. I looked for years to find one. Getting another I beam from the junkyard might be easier if you are ok with working on the king pins, which can also be troublesome if you don't know what to watch for. The hydraulic ram method will work as long as you have a means to measure camber; An alignment rack is more suited to the task. If you find a place that does I beam camber adjustment, please post.
Holy double post batman! haha,
You can find shops to bend your beams for you fairly easily...although make sure its a shop that knows what theyre doing.
Heck sometimes you can even find the beams already bent online and for sale as they are a popular conversion item for the I beam rangers to use for off-roading. They usually have them bent and leave the stock length because they want a wider track width for more stability.
-Chris
Sorry for the double post... I hit send, then waited for FTE server to send message, but it didn't respond. So, 10 minutes later, I looked and the progress meter was still at half, I hit send again, this time it went through. Didn't know it posted twice though...
One town I lived in a few years ago had a few dealerships and garages. Not one of them could do the camber adjustment I needed.
When these trucks with I-Beams were new, the original owner would be lucky to get 10,000 miles out of a set of the bias ply tires used then. Ford did not align the front ends when these trucks were built. What they did was measure the front ends at the end of the assembly line using a gauge. If the truck fell within specs, out the door it went. A rule of thumb back then was to have the dealer align the front end before you took delivery of your new truck.
As Mil1ion pointed out, a hydraulic ram was used to align the front ends...then and now. A quality independent brake and front end shop can do this work. Forget Poop Boys, F- Mart, Smears, Tiredstone, Badyear, or any of the other chain auto repair joints. They can barely change the oil!
Last edited by NumberDummy; Jun 29, 2007 at 05:57 PM.
i live in australia. i have seen truck alignment places in major cities. they advertise bending truck axles to get the camber right. they are all 800 plus miles away.
Before you go get your I-beams bent, I'd really make sure all your bushings, ball joints, and kingpins are good. If any of these parts are worn, bending won't do a bit of good. These front ends do suck for aligning, but they are close enough. As long as you rotate your tires fairly often, you shouldn't have any big problems with tire wear. I rotate mine every other oil change and get about 50,000 miles out of a set of tires. If your toe is good, they should last pretty long.